The terminals are fine. I guess my question is that, will the fuel injectors come on if the battery does not have enough juice. I don't hear them coming on.
Thanks for the tip, will try that.If you can, measure the voltage of the battery with a multimeter. I'd bet that you are going to measure low. You can jump start your bike with a car but don't start the car up at all to do it...
+1. Or you can go down to your friendly Harbor Freight and buy a small load tester for $22, I have had this one for years, works fine, and I use it all the time:You already have the tester.. the bike itself.
Just put a voltmeter to the bike while cranking the starter, if voltage at the battery drops below 10, time to replace.
That is all the big testers are doing, just measuring voltage under a significant load.
Any recommendations on the battery.If you can, measure the voltage of the battery with a multimeter. I'd bet that you are going to measure low. You can jump start your bike with a car but don't start the car up at all to do it...
If a basic voltmeter is all you have then its not that bad of a list.I am new to motorcycles with batteries so with colder months coming I read about how to test them. Below is what I've learned. Is this right? Is there a better way to get a quick replace/don't replace reading?
Steps:
1. Make sure battery is fully charged.
2. Turn on high beams for three minutes to eliminate "surface charge" in battery.
3. Put a Voltmeter on battery.
4. Volts should be in the 12.3 volt(V) to 12.6V range.
5. Perform load test A - turn on ignition/headlight but don't start engine. Voltmeter should show at least 11.2V. If reading is less than 10V, replace the battery.
6. Perform load test B - watch voltmeter while starting motorcycle. If volts dip below 10V, during the starting process, replace the battery. (the video below is only a small part of information I've read/watched on the internet)
http://www.expertvillage.com/video/18218_motorcycle-battery-two.htm
Also note from MCNews article (http://www.mcnews.com/mcnews/articles/battery.htm) - "A fully charged battery is only 65% as strong at 32? as it was at 80?, and at zero, it drops to only 40% capacity."
If a basic voltmeter is all you have then its not that bad of a list.
I would add 2a - wait 15 minutes and 6a - watch voltage recovery after load testing. It should be a slow low speed rise back to battery voltage, not instant.
and 7 - engine running everything off voltage above 12.8 below 14 at idle. I may have the these idle specs wrong as I do not have a manual in front of my face to confirm alt testing
If you have a graphing or analogue voltmeter you can actaully see the dip of a battery during a load test without watching the voltages.
AND good on you for going for it regarding batteries
If you are only going to be doing a few short local rides between now and next spring I would suggest that you return the new one and re-install the old one. This will give you the winter to research and find what you feel is the best battery for you and come next spring you can buy that one nice and fresh and start the season with a new battery.I normally ride May - Oct and a couple times in November when the temps are above 60. Thanks in advance for your input.
Hello Qomar. A test of alternator function is to take a multimeter that can check direct current voltage (DC). With the engine OFF test for voltage at the battery terminals. With the battery at rest you may get a result of 12.2 to 13.0 volts. Start the engine and check voltage again. With the engine ON and throttle set to 5000 rpm the voltage should be 13.6 to 15.5 volts.Salam everybody who's online, I got one question but maybe of topic, how to know either the alternator is functioning or not, tqvm