How to replace rear brake pads

randy the x man

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Is there a how to on replacing the rear brake pads? Do you have to remove the wheel or can you slip the calipers of without doing that?

Thanks
Randy
 

Mark

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I think you have to pull the wheel.
I haven't ever tried to change them with the wheel in and I don't think you could; but, the real reason for pulling the wheel is to allow you to clean the brake pistons. If you push the pistons back in (to make room for the new pads) without cleaning them you push the road grime into the rubber seals... this shortens their life (sometimes a whole lot).

Mark
 

Blrfl

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If you just want to slap a new set of pads in, you can do that without pulling the rear wheel.

That said, it's really better to get in there and clean the pistons, which requires pulling the caliper off, at which point you might as well remove the rear wheel so you don't get brake fluid all over the rim and tire.

--Mark
 
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You can replace the brake pads without removing the wheel. Just remember 2 things: make sure the hand brake lever & foot pedal cannot be activated accidentally with the pads removed; also, with the pad retaining pins loose but still in place, try to hand push-pull the brake assembly so as to depress the brake pistons for easier mounting of the new & thicker pads.

As for cleaning the pistons, one could use WD40 with its extended mini straw to spray into the pistons. Or use an extended cotton swab to do the same.
 

Blrfl

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Errr... Clean the pistons with brake fluid. WD40 is not a substance you want anywhere near your brakes.

--Mark
 
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You can replace the pads with the wheel on. You have to hook the front tabs in on the pads first and put tension on the spring then put in the locating pin. Same with the front pads. You can push the pistons out just by removing the lid on the fluid resevoir.
KZ
 

dduelin

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You don't have to remove the wheel to just replace the pads, just the left rear pannier to gain access to the caliper. Anyone contemplating this simple job can find a week's worth of "how to" reading in the Brakes sub forum found in the menu of forums.

The important thing is not to force the pad retaining pin back into place after inserting the new pads. The pads are kind of fiddly to get inserted all the way into place. It is possible to force the pins into place and in use the pin is bent or otherwise damaged which cause the rear brake to malfunction and possibly lock up the rear wheel whilst riding. I have had them fit in easy-peasy first time and another time take multiple attempts to fit the pin through the pads without undue force. It's one of those things you know when you did it right - the pin fits loosely.

Much is made of cleaning the pistons prior to retracting them but the dust seals Honda designed do a good job living in the exposed environment back there and get the job done.
 
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Much is made of cleaning the pistons prior to retracting them but the dust seals Honda designed do a good job living in the exposed environment back there and get the job done.
I have to disagree. With all the problems here with sticking rear brakes and with how nasty those pistons get with brake dust and road grime, you should clean them. It's easy enough, just takes more time. You REALLY don't want to shove that stuff, coated the entire length of the piston, into the dust seal and hope it wipes it all off.
 
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I changed rear pads and cleaned the caliper without removing the wheel. I first removed the original pads. Then removed the caliper mounting bolts. Had enough free play in the lines where I could 'rotate' the caliper away from the wheel (basically held it above the left muffler) and scrub it with brake fluid on a toothbrush. Sprayed it all down with brake cleaner and blew it dry with compressed air (of course, I had plenty of towels laying on top of the exhaust to keep any spills away). I then placed the old pads back in the caliper, took a short tire spoon and gently compressed the pistons back into the caliper. Removed the old pads, placed the caliper back into position and re-inserted the caliper mounting bolts finger tight. Put new pads in (you'll know when they are in properly because the holes for the pad pin will line up properly) replaced the pin and torqued both the bolts and the pin to spec. Takes about 15 minutes.
 
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I did it, with help from the Service Manual; it's easy.
1. Remove rt. side panel to access the rear brake fluid reservoir.< Retracting caliper pistons will force fluid back into the reservoir.> Remove fluid if necessary.
2. Use brake clean & brush to clean exposed pistons, then retract pistons into caliper by pressing the outer caliper body inward toward the brake disc. I used a piece of wood ,like a lever, between the frame rail and outer caliper body. Continue cleaning.
3. Remove the rubber pin plug, remove the pad pin, remove the pads. Continue cleaning.
4. "Make sure the new brake pad spring is in place. Push the brake pads against the pad spring, the install the pad pin". per Service Manual.
Please note: It is very difficult to accurately torque the pad pin<13lbs> because of interference from the frame rail. Don't worry, 13 lbs isn't much, just estimate. Also, clean the pad pin, but do not lubricate, grease/oil will only attract more dirt.
 
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I'll stand by the theory that a very light film of grease on the pins isn't bad. In addition to giving a little help to the pads themselves, it actually keeps the brake dust from accumulating and sticking to the pin (and can be easily wiped off when the pin is removed, as opposed to having to scrub the dust off the bare pin).
 
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I changed rear pads and cleaned the caliper without removing the wheel. I first removed the original pads. Then removed the caliper mounting bolts. Had enough free play in the lines where I could 'rotate' the caliper away from the wheel (basically held it above the left muffler) and scrub it with brake fluid on a toothbrush. Sprayed it all down with brake cleaner and blew it dry with compressed air (of course, I had plenty of towels laying on top of the exhaust to keep any spills away). I then placed the old pads back in the caliper, took a short tire spoon and gently compressed the pistons back into the caliper. Removed the old pads, placed the caliper back into position and re-inserted the caliper mounting bolts finger tight. Put new pads in (you'll know when they are in properly because the holes for the pad pin will line up properly) replaced the pin and torqued both the bolts and the pin to spec. Takes about 15 minutes.
Of all the threads to date (01/16/2014), I believe that "racer1735's" is the most accurate and comprehensive. I would just like to add some detail, regarding required mounting bolt (2 bolts) and pin (1 bolt) removal, as I just replaced the rear caliper pads on my 2004 ST1300 and found that the following 2 mounting bolts (#1 & #3 below) and pad-retaining bolt (#2 below, also referred to as a pin) are required for complete caliper removal from the mounting bracket and off the rotor (without the need for rear axle removal):

1. forward caliper mounting bolt, requiring a 14mm socket (bolt head is exposed, counterclockwise to loosen).
2. rear caliper pad-retaining bolt (pin), requiring a 6mm allen wrench (rubber cap must first be removed to expose the bolt head, counterclockwise to loosen) - note, this is the only bolt required for removal of the pads - the other two bolts secure the caliper to the mounting bracket.
3. bottom caliper mounting bolt, requiring a 12mm open-end wrench (the 12mm head is located in the middle of the bolt, counterclockwise to loosen). I wish someone would have told me about this unique bolt.

Although only removal of bolt #2 above (requiring a 6mm allen wrench) is required for pad removal, removal of bolts #1 & #3 above allow one to access the 3 caliper pistons for cleaning with the dot 4 brake fluid, prior to retracting the pistons to allow room for insertion of the new pads.
 

EASt

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The last time I replaced my brake pads, I was not very adept at home maintenance. I seem to remember using a screw-driver and a stick of wood as a pry bar to compress the cylinders and create space for the new pads.

How in the world do the rest of you compress the cylinders safely? By hand (just grab the old pads and squeeze)? :confused:
 

Blrfl

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How in the world do the rest of you compress the cylinders safely? By hand (just grab the old pads and squeeze)? :confused:
Old pad on the pistons, bit of rubber matting on the outside of the caliper and a C clamp works nicely. It does mean that you have to remove the caliper, but it works well and compresses everything evenly.

--Mark
 

EASt

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I think I can visualize this. Didn't want to take off the caliper, but it seems that it's better for cleaning also. May as well do it right.

I hate doing stuff right.
 

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It does mean that you have to remove the caliper, but it works well and compresses everything evenly.
It also makes it easier to clean off the pistons before you shove 'em back into the bores...
 
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I'll stand by the theory that a very light film of grease on the pins isn't bad. In addition to giving a little help to the pads themselves, it actually keeps the brake dust from accumulating and sticking to the pin (and can be easily wiped off when the pin is removed, as opposed to having to scrub the dust off the bare pin).
+1 - Brake dust can be quite corrosive over time. I've used a very light smear of the Moly 60 for years. It is a high temp grease and stays in place. +1 on the C clamp to push the pistons in too.
 
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Of all the threads to date (01/16/2014), I believe that "racer1735's" is the most accurate and comprehensive. I would just like to add some detail, regarding required mounting bolt (2 bolts) and pin (1 bolt) removal, as I just replaced the rear caliper pads on my 2004 ST1300 and found that the following 2 mounting bolts (#1 & #3 below) and pad-retaining bolt (#2 below, also referred to as a pin) are required for complete caliper removal from the mounting bracket and off the rotor (without the need for rear axle removal):

1. forward caliper mounting bolt, requiring a 14mm socket (bolt head is exposed, counterclockwise to loosen).
2. rear caliper pad-retaining bolt (pin), requiring a 6mm allen wrench (rubber cap must first be removed to expose the bolt head, counterclockwise to loosen) - note, this is the only bolt required for removal of the pads - the other two bolts secure the caliper to the mounting bracket.
3. bottom caliper mounting bolt, requiring a 12mm open-end wrench (the 12mm head is located in the middle of the bolt, counterclockwise to loosen). I wish someone would have told me about this unique bolt.

Although only removal of bolt #2 above (requiring a 6mm allen wrench) is required for pad removal, removal of bolts #1 & #3 above allow one to access the 3 caliper pistons for cleaning with the dot 4 brake fluid, prior to retracting the pistons to allow room for insertion of the new pads.

I will have to dissagree with a couple things.....spraying brake cleaner may cause the seals to swell....you should use a 5mm allen and not a 6mm one....the calipers should not me taken apart for Any service....yes, the units should always be cleaned....correctly. and nobody has said anything about the sliding dowels being cleaned and greased....as far as pushing the pistons in....push in the center on the caliper against the rotor.
 
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One last item I forgot it to always make sure the metal cage on the pads is lined up with the eye hole in the pad perfectly or it may scrape and drag.
 

EASt

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I will have to dissagree with a couple things.....spraying brake cleaner may cause the seals to swell....you should use a 5mm allen and not a 6mm one....the calipers should not me taken apart for Any service....yes, the units should always be cleaned....correctly. and nobody has said anything about the sliding dowels being cleaned and greased....as far as pushing the pistons in....push in the center on the caliper against the rotor.
So, what would you use to clean the brakes?
 
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