+1 That's what I learned on my Google search.
Final Drive (Shaft) Oil Change
- Thread starter ST1p
- Start date
Suspected that back when I was rebuilding GL1000's. Hypoid felt like 40wt...just smelled different. But, that was what Mr Honda recommended. so....
Environmentally My a__ !! All the waste oil gets recycled, it's not like we are dumping the stuff down the drain...
BTW, I need to find out why my local quickie oil change business isn't accepting waste oil anymore. I heard they were getting about a buck a gallon for it.
+1 Yup, my Google search mentioned that EP80 was about the same viscosity as 40 weight motor oil.
That line of thinking fails to recognize the pollution costs associated with the production and processing of the crude oil in the beginning. The more oil we send to the recyclers means more has to be extracted from the ground and there are still pollution costs at the recycling end as well. That's what makes synthetic oils a better choice, since they last in service 3 to 4 times longer than dino oil, meaning less oil needs to be extracted from the Earth.
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2011
- Messages
- 1,117
- Age
- 71
- Location
- Ada ( Grand Rapids ) Michigan
- Bike
- '07 ST 1300 & '91 GW
- STOC #
- 8421
I know of at least 1 oil change / large car wash place in town here uses the used oil to heat their building and car wash water in the winter time.
Doesn't surprise me. Are the owners Dutch ??
ST1100Y
Site Supporter
Great... more dioxins in the atmosphere...
On my newly bought (two weeks) ST1300 from 2007 i had replaced the final gear oil twice. It had 33400 miles on the meter (54000km)
I use Motul 300: https://www.motul.com/se/sv/products/oils-lubricants/gear-300-75w90
I was "dirty" oil when i drained it. Also had to remove alot of dirt from the bolt.
Now i have drive 300 miles and changed the oil in the final drive one more time. It is stil dirty oil coming out!
I also noticed a sound (Like a wounded dog) when i drive exessively on small road with alot of turns.
I have also changed the rear brakes and cleaned them so that should not be a problem.
What is weared down if you dont switch oil in the final drive?
I have all the stamps( marking) in the service book, i will never ever trust them again! Why do bikeshops do that? It is soo much worse to have a bad reputation than change a small amount of oil in the final drive......
I use Motul 300: https://www.motul.com/se/sv/products/oils-lubricants/gear-300-75w90
I was "dirty" oil when i drained it. Also had to remove alot of dirt from the bolt.
Now i have drive 300 miles and changed the oil in the final drive one more time. It is stil dirty oil coming out!
I also noticed a sound (Like a wounded dog) when i drive exessively on small road with alot of turns.
I have also changed the rear brakes and cleaned them so that should not be a problem.
What is weared down if you dont switch oil in the final drive?
I have all the stamps( marking) in the service book, i will never ever trust them again! Why do bikeshops do that? It is soo much worse to have a bad reputation than change a small amount of oil in the final drive......
The "dirt" you see on the magnetic bolt is actually very fine metal shavings, coming off the ring gears in there. The ST final drives have proven quite "bulletproof", in that very few ever fail. The dirty oil you saw on your second oil change may have been caused by the residue left from the first oil change, since it had been left so long. Using a good synthetic gear oil in there is the best idea, which the Motul appears to be. The sounds you hear on the twisty road could be coming from the tires.
ST1100Y
Site Supporter
+1... likely cupped tire...
But IMHO is there also is deviation in MFG tolerance; whilst the f/drive of my prev '92 (as well as the '94 I also own) was/is completely silent under all operating conditions, will the gears of the '00 ST1100 emit a silent, pulsing whine while coasting/slowing at low speeds (like when slowing down at a junction, in 2nd gear or with clutch pulled, same sound)...
That's there from day one, has been claimed, the final drive taken apart under warranty, remeasured, slapped back together, no change, same noise...
ring and pinions are checked in a couple of different ways, pre loads on carrier and pinion bearings, wear patterns under different loads(pinion depth). If all are in spec there could be a mismatched ring and pinion. Try some sawdust or banana peals, it works good in used car lots(joke)
final drive noises are usually characterized by whines or howls noticed with load changes. Wheel bearing or tire noise would more consistent, a wheel bearing could be louder on turns when the load is greater on the bad spot. Tires get cupped on edges and when leaning could cause noise ... I agree with Bush- check your tires carefully
ST1100Y
Site Supporter
The proper procedure would be disassemble, clean all, apply Prussian blue on the tooth flanks, assemble, rotate the gears, take it apart again, check the contact pattern, re-shim accordingly, test again, etc, etc... till you achieve the perfectly centred, oval contact patch...
Would require to have the full set of f/drive shims at hand though...
I figure change the oil every 5000 and the final gear every 20000. It's easy to remember and is pretty much by the book.
I figure change the oil every 5000 and the final gear every 20000. It's easy to remember and is pretty much by the book.
docw1
Bill Rankin
Like some others do, I change the final drive oil whenever I change the rear tire. Makes it easy to remember.
Bill
Bill
Prussion Blue is not recommended, only gear marking compound is , to show the contact pattern properly.
See : Page 8 in this PDF Document