Acually, if using synthetic gear lube, it shold be be 75-140w variety, NOT the 80w nor the 75-90w conventionable gear lube viscosity. As a synthetic lube of the lesser viscosity doesn't have near the 'cushion' needed for ring/pinion gears nor bearings
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I guess if you say it enough times, people will believe it!Acually, if using synthetic gear lube, it shold be be 75-140w variety, NOT the 80w nor the 75-90w conventionable gear lube viscosity. As a synthetic lube of the lesser viscosity doesn't have near the 'cushion' needed for ring/pinion gears nor bearings
Thanks Bush! Not sure bout' the at' em part cept to offer info in areas where my knowledge exists. In this case, have seen internals of Yamaha XS1100 final drives that did LD rides on the 'slab' of 2K or more miles that used synthetic lubes of viscosities equal to conventional gear lube in final drive.....bearings in particular were in a sad state of condition as a result. Additional housing heat was also noted. Heat=additional friction with ring and pinion gear teeth engagementI guess if you say it enough times, people will believe it!
Good to see you up and at 'em Brant.
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+1 on the old parts. I have had this happen. Rear end oil changes aren't all that frequent so the O-ring can stick fiercely to both the case and cover groove over that time. I've had the hex head twist right off. Just used a brass hammer and chisel to unscrew the remaining donut. Valve covers from a Trail 90 look similar and fit.
80W-90 should be fine. It doesn't take much, 5 or 6 ounces, not sure what that is in ml.
I change mine often on shaft drive bikes simply because it's easy and not all that expensive at all... I change about every other oil change. It's overkill but hey, sometimes I just get bored.
