1991 ST1100 project

jaysponger

Jay Rena
Joined
Mar 21, 2009
Messages
269
Location
Murrieta, CA
Bike
2007 ST1300
STOC #
7871
Lets start from the beginning. I just bought a 1991 ST1100 from my buddy. I guess being deployed and smoking all those cigars kept him from actually working on this bike so he sold it to me. This baby has been sitting for awhile. I tried to start it up and it did, however it won't stay on without the choke. So I started to take all the fairings out so I can look at the carburator. Now the problem is I can't take the dang carburator assembly off. Any of you guys have a good way to take it out?
 

Outlaws

Outlawarrior
Joined
Feb 17, 2007
Messages
76
Location
Aberdeen SD
Bike
'91 ST1100
STOC #
6726
You'll want to loosen the clamps under each throat & be careful to only pry under the rear carb set so as to not bend the throttle link that passes underneath between the front & rear pair. You will definitely need to synch the carbs when reinstalled. Good luck.
 
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jaysponger

jaysponger

Jay Rena
Joined
Mar 21, 2009
Messages
269
Location
Murrieta, CA
Bike
2007 ST1300
STOC #
7871
The bike is silver, I tried to WD40 is that enough? Now I know I will be replacing the carb insulator and such. Any place cheap I can buy this part online?
 
Joined
Feb 5, 2005
Messages
8,538
Age
77
Location
Kingman, Arizona
Bike
2000 ST1100 ABS TCS
STOC #
004
I usually buy my parts from Service Honda.

On the carb service, a few more tips. Remove the air cleaner top (10 screws?) and bottom (6 screws.) Necessary to work the bottom up over the velocity stacks. The front hoses (secondary air) and one hose under the air cleaner (crankcase vent) have to be moved/removed. Remove 2 screws from the vacuum fuel valve and remove the fuel hose from the valve. As mentioned, loosen the top clamp on all 4 boots, pry up (a broom stick is good) from the rear.

Loosen the screw for the choke cable and remove the cable. Remove the two screws at the throttle cable bell crank and remove those cables. Shouldn't be necessary to loosen the adjustment nuts. Pull the overflow hoses off the bottoms of the carb floats.

Once the carbs are free of the bike, take'em outside and open the drain screws. To save another step later, do'em one at a time into a graduated bowl. All 4 should have the same amount of fuel. Forget the exact amount but if it's high (rich) or low (lean) the floats on the guilty carbs will have to be adjusted.

On a bench, turn the assembly upside down. Remove the float bowls one at a time and remove the low speed jets. These are probably the culprit. Clean with a small brass wire, make sure all eigt side holes are clean, too. After clearing the blockage, clean'em in strong solution (I use MEK or Acetone.) Long as yur in there, check the main jet, too.

Turn back to top side and remove the tops. There's a soft spring in each but nothng that's gonna go "sproing!" Remove the diaphragms and slides. Check the diaphragms closely for holes and tears. Treat them gently as they are expensive.

Check the needles for crud and wear, and check the orifice a the bottom of the bore for wear. With all four diaphragms removed, you can force air and/or cleaner thru all the orifices. Don't do this with the diaphragms in place!! :eek:

With the carbs off the bike, remove the rubber sheet and check all the hoses and hose clamps in the valley. Pretty common for there to be loose clamps and evidence of small coolant leaks.

With the carbs reassembled, time to replace the boots. Those 18 year old hunks-o-rubber are prolly pretty firm by now. Note the position of each and put the new one on in the same orientation. with the bottom clamps now tight and the top clamps in place but loose, time to apply... (my secret weapon)

Plumbers Grease, available at yur local Ace or True Value or Home Depot or Lowes or anywhere else that handles plumbing. It's exactly the right stuff for this. Apply fairly liberally to both boots and carb bells.

Replace the rubber sheet.

Place the carbs on top of the boots and reattach the overflow tubes and throttle cables.

Put one side in place and push down firmly _on the opposite side carb tops directly into the boots. Now, the fun part (I use a 2 foot piece of 2" ABS plumbing pipe for this.) Push down and in on the front carb (if ya did 2/4 first, now push on 1). When ya htink it's close, move to the rear and do the same thing. Alternate til they slip into place. Right when ya think they'll never fit, it'll come together.

Reattach the choke cable and the fuel hose, install the air cleaner, reattach the vacuum fuel valve, and...

GO RIDE!!!

What did I forget? :D

If ya didn't fiddle with the carb synch screws, and ya put all the same parts back in each carb, you'll be okay for a test ride. It'd be a good idea, tho, to synch the carbs and do 50 RPM drop test.

I just did all this stuff on ReSTored last week. Made a big diff in the gas mileage.

Where in SoCal? I'm close enuff to help when I'm in the area.
 
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jaysponger

jaysponger

Jay Rena
Joined
Mar 21, 2009
Messages
269
Location
Murrieta, CA
Bike
2007 ST1300
STOC #
7871
Thanks guys for the offer, yes I will take that offer. I live in Murrieta, California, so come on by if you are in the area. However, hit me up first so I know what to brew (hot cocoa, lemonade...)
 

John OoSTerhuis

Life Is Good!
Joined
May 10, 2005
Messages
5,218
Location
Bettendorf, Iowa
Bike
1991 SSMST1100
STOC #
1058
Hi Jay,

You got some great advice above. Jon gave you one of my Webshots accounts. That one doesn't have my coolant hoses/carb R&R pics. Here they are:
Coolant Hose R&R/Carb Pull - John OoSTerhuis STOC 1058

You might have some problem getting the Secondary Air Supply system (aka: PAIRs) hose off its nipple on the front of the carb box. Often it's found to be 'welded on', especially on an older ST11 like your Sparkling Silver Metallic beauty. Mike Martin's webpage(s) on the issue:
ST1100 Coolant Hoses & Timing Belt
lists the PN which is well worth the price vs the aggravation (18604-MT3-730 / TUBE, AIR SUCTION VALVE).

Send me your name and STOC # and I'll add you and your STeed to the Unofficial SSMST RegiSTry. :) Also the last 6 digits of your VIN for the manf sequence/OldeST liST.

HTH

Regards, John
 
Joined
Feb 5, 2005
Messages
8,538
Age
77
Location
Kingman, Arizona
Bike
2000 ST1100 ABS TCS
STOC #
004
I can do this, it'll give me a chance to pick up the "San Diego" tag and move it to the far reaches of SoCal. :D

Not this week but this weekend or pretty much any day next week. What's yur schedule??

Folgers Breakfast Blend, all day, every day. :D

Jon, did ya see yur name over at ST-Riders? Yur on the original 100 list, STOC 063. :D
 
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jaysponger

jaysponger

Jay Rena
Joined
Mar 21, 2009
Messages
269
Location
Murrieta, CA
Bike
2007 ST1300
STOC #
7871
John,
I just updated my info, call me Jay. I am a newbie so I don't even know how to get my STOC#, last six of my VIN 101876
 
Joined
Feb 5, 2005
Messages
8,538
Age
77
Location
Kingman, Arizona
Bike
2000 ST1100 ABS TCS
STOC #
004
It souds like George is referring to the fuel mixture adjustment. Am I correct George?
Yes, adjustment of the low speed air jets. Ya need a good electronic tach, capable of showing accurate changes to 50 RPM (the on board instrument isn't that accurate.)

Balance the carbs, then open each air jet (from the primary opening of 2 1/4 turns out) in 1/2 turn increments until the RPM stops going up, then close in 1/2 turn increments until the RPM drops 50. Now open that jet 1/4 turn. Do each of the carbs in turn, then rebalance.

Shop manual says this adjustment shouldn't be necessary unless the low speed air jets have been removed/replaced. I figure it's worth a check for bench mark at least on every bike. Ya might just find'em mal-adjusted for whatever reason, including long term wear.

I have the tools so decided to do it last check. Ended with each air jet open probably a 1/2 to 3/4 turn further than previous.
 
Joined
Jan 1, 2008
Messages
168
Location
Podunk, AZ. aka Glendale
Yes, adjustment of the low speed air jets. Ya need a good electronic tach, capable of showing accurate changes to 50 RPM (the on board instrument isn't that accurate.)

Balance the carbs, then open each air jet (from the primary opening of 2 1/4 turns out) in 1/2 turn increments until the RPM stops going up, then close in 1/2 turn increments until the RPM drops 50. Now open that jet 1/4 turn. Do each of the carbs in turn, then rebalance.

Shop manual says this adjustment shouldn't be necessary unless the low speed air jets have been removed/replaced. I figure it's worth a check for bench mark at least on every bike. Ya might just find'em mal-adjusted for whatever reason, including long term wear.

I have the tools so decided to do it last check. Ended with each air jet open probably a 1/2 to 3/4 turn further than previous.
Thanks for the explanation George! I will be giving that a try soon.
 
Joined
Feb 5, 2005
Messages
8,538
Age
77
Location
Kingman, Arizona
Bike
2000 ST1100 ABS TCS
STOC #
004
Terry, ya need the flexy-shaft D-shaped tip special tool to reach and adjust the low-speed jets. PITA, but it can be done. Some have made their own using a short piece of brass tubing flattened on one side. Don't know what they used for the flex shaft.
 
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jaysponger

jaysponger

Jay Rena
Joined
Mar 21, 2009
Messages
269
Location
Murrieta, CA
Bike
2007 ST1300
STOC #
7871
I took the fuel tank out, man now we are talking about leverage. But the broom handle trick ain't working. I broke a few "broomstick" already, a few more push and it will do it. Nothing that a jarhead can't handle. Pictures will be up soon, it will be ugly but it is a working progress.
 
Joined
Feb 5, 2005
Messages
8,538
Age
77
Location
Kingman, Arizona
Bike
2000 ST1100 ABS TCS
STOC #
004
I took the fuel tank out, man now we are talking about leverage. But the broom handle trick ain't working. I broke a few "broomstick" already, a few more push and it will do it. Nothing that a jarhead can't handle. Pictures will be up soon, it will be ugly but it is a working progress.
Let me know if ya want some help. I could be there over the weekend.
 
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jaysponger

jaysponger

Jay Rena
Joined
Mar 21, 2009
Messages
269
Location
Murrieta, CA
Bike
2007 ST1300
STOC #
7871
Let me know if ya want some help. I could be there over the weekend.
I will be working on it this weekend for sure, it is almost out just a little bit of omphh. You're welcome to stop by, however, I have classic roast instead of morning blend. The ride around the wine country (French Valley/Temecula) is not bad. A few more items I need to do:

-replace air filter
-oil/filter change
-coolant change/clean reservoir and flush the system, I mean really flush the system.
-change gear oil
-paint the luggage
-flush brake system
-check clutch system
-replace left side view mirror cover
-of course clean the carb and find out if it is gunk out, which I think it is after sitting for quite sometime.

Hmmm...I think I can do this in about 6 weeks probably faster. If my kids stop loosing my tools and my wife's to do lists get's put on pause then probably 4 weeks. Oh yeah I forgot the parts.... dang. I need to do this before summer, man....I feel like a kid again. Hands getting dirty, the smell of fuel, hands getting banged up, parts all over the place.... just like when I was a kid messing with my Honda TMX 155, any of you guys know what kind of bike this is. Here is a hint, it is big in the Philippines where I grew up and it is used as a tricycle for primary mode of transportation.
 
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jaysponger

jaysponger

Jay Rena
Joined
Mar 21, 2009
Messages
269
Location
Murrieta, CA
Bike
2007 ST1300
STOC #
7871
I actually used a metal pry bar. Wrapped some scrap cloth around the end where it was contacting the underside of the carbs.

If things are being really stubborn, I wonder if warming the boots a bit would help? This is when I raid my wife's cabinets in the bathroom. The key is to put the hair dryer back BEFORE she notices. Works reasonably well on heat shrink as well. :eek::

Now that's a touchy item to deal with. Ahhh what the heck i'll take the blame, I hope I don't blow up with all the fumes....ha ha ha
 
Joined
Feb 5, 2005
Messages
8,538
Age
77
Location
Kingman, Arizona
Bike
2000 ST1100 ABS TCS
STOC #
004
Waht Keith said. Those hoses are probably 20 years old. OTOH, the only reason I lost one was because of another hose's clamp rubbing the cooolant hose for 20 years. Others have blown hoses, tho.

My opinion, get it running first, assess the total package, go back later and do the hoses if necessary.

Anyhoo, I'm up for an all day thrash on Saturday. Or the following weekend if that'd be better for you. PM me yur address.
 
Joined
Jul 30, 2007
Messages
44
Location
San Diego, CA
STOC #
1155
Hello Jay, George, Jon & others!
I just joined the list tonight and am happy to be online again with like-minded friends.

Jay, if you and George get together for a Carb-STOC maintenance, cleaning & tuning session, I would love to attend and help out where I can. I live in San Diego and also have a project underway.... Last weekend, I purchased a 1996 ST1100 ABS/TCS with only 3,300 miles. It was stored and neglected during the past five years. The previous owner bought it in 2000 with only a 1,000 miles on it. Anyhow, it's a great looking ST. I replaced the engine oil/filter, gas and battery. The ST started up after five or six attempts but does not idle. I want to replace the cooling hoses and clamps so the carbs will be removed anyhow. I don't want to 'push' my luck with dirty carb. I tried draining the carbs but nothing flowed out of them. The clutch's hydraulic system needs a good cleaning as well since there is no pressure at all. I just bought the Craftsman vacuum pump/brake bleed kit from Sears and hope it will save a trip to the dealer.

Anyhow, please drop a line if you would like to get together and discuss projects. We're not very far apart.

Everyone, thanks for contributing so much information to this topic.

David
 
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