1992 - 2001 engine swap

STonewall · May 26, 2009

My bike is 1992 ST1100AN and its engine is done, so done, that I have to replace it. Good 2001 engine is offered for me, but does it fit to my old frame? And another thing is alternator: I have very good old 28-amp alternator, does it fit to newer 40 -ampered engine? Of course stronger alternator is better, but at the moment I don't have any.

Ideas...?

Mark · May 26, 2009

The engine will fit into the frame.
I don't know if the oil cooled alternator will fit as well.
I know of one person that replaced an engine and transmission (pre '96 with after '96).

Good luck!
Mark

hawkeyeST · May 26, 2009

No reason that the 28 amp alternator will not work on the '01 engine. Although you may be the first to attempt it. May I ask how many miles were on the '92 engine and what is wrong with it? Just curious.

STonewall · May 26, 2009

80000 km so it is 50000 miles... Clutch broke and it caused bearing damage in gearbox. Engine itself has had very bad maintenance and and it is old, so I will move it to spare parts class.

George · May 26, 2009

You have all the parts to make the 28 amper work in yur new engine. The newer engine will fit fine. Good luck with all the work!

STonewall · Jul 4, 2009

Alternator fits very well but as oil-cooled it could cause oil temperature problems, I think. Well, I'll see it when I start riding with it...

scout · Jul 4, 2009

I hear of people upgrading the 28 amp to a 40 amp alternator. Wondering why you would want to go down to a 28 amp alternator. Do you not have access to the 40 that was with the engine?

sennister · Jul 4, 2009

scout said:
I hear of people upgrading the 28 amp to a 40 amp alternator. Wondering why you would want to go down to a 28 amp alternator. Do you not have access to the 40 that was with the engine?

I agree. The thing about the oil cooled 28 amp alternator is that they are known to fail. The 40 Amp is much more reliable and provides additional power for running heated clothing and lights. Even if you don't have a 40 amp alternator with this new engine I would look for one. Now is the time to do it. If you later try and upgrade the alternator because the 28 amp died you will either have to pull the engine again or pull the swingarm. Either route is quite a bit of work.

STonewall · Jul 5, 2009

I know, but bike broker who sold me that engine had already sold the alternator away. Because 40 -ampered things are favoured in upgrades they are rare and expensive. For example: '02 ex -British Traffic Police engine and trans costed 300? for me including freight. That already sold alternator costed 225?. New alternator costs here about 1470 USD and I'm not gonna buy it for that price 'cause can get three to four complete low-mileage engines for that price.
Anyway, it's Finnish less-snowy summer now and I hope I could ride about 6000 miles before this weather turns to "Alaska -mode". I'm going to take swingarm away and powdercoat it like I've powdercoated almost all other metal parts. That swingarm job will be done during winter so I have time to search and buy cheaper used alternator on September-April era. Now it's time to bolt last parts on and ride that Frankenstein (my bike is completed using parts of three other bikes) if it works!

PS. It runs. Old alternator works so far without leaks.

sennister · Jul 5, 2009

Why are they so expensive over there? We can get the alternator here will all the parts needed to do the job plus all the seals needed when pulling the rear swing arm for about $450 USD. Maybe you can find a parts supply here that will ship overseas. Or we could help out. Since you are pulling the swing arm anyhow you could do it later as you mentioned. The only disadvantage about doing it with the swing arm is that there is a tab (for the brake line I think) that needs to be bent out of the way and it is still tricky to get the alternator out and the new one in. If you do it will the engine swap it will be an easy pop it into place job. If you wait until the swing arm is off there is a video on the site and plenty of information on how to do it. Also be aware that it takes some special tools to take the swing arm off and put it back on.

Even if there are no leaks in the old alternator I think you will want to replace the seals. No sense in using old seals with the 28 amp to find out it leaks when all done.

STonewall · May 26, 2016

sennister said:
Why are they so expensive over there? We can get the alternator here will all the parts needed to do the job plus all the seals needed when pulling the rear swing arm for about $450 USD. Maybe you can find a parts supply here that will ship overseas. Or we could help out. Since you are pulling the swing arm anyhow you could do it later as you mentioned. The only disadvantage about doing it with the swing arm is that there is a tab (for the brake line I think) that needs to be bent out of the way and it is still tricky to get the alternator out and the new one in. If you do it will the engine swap it will be an easy pop it into place job. If you wait until the swing arm is off there is a video on the site and plenty of information on how to do it. Also be aware that it takes some special tools to take the swing arm off and put it back on.

Even if there are no leaks in the old alternator I think you will want to replace the seals. No sense in using old seals with the 28 amp to find out it leaks when all done.

I have missed that 450-USD-offer. So how much a new alternator costs overseas? That 28-ampere-thing is still working, but...

Brant · May 26, 2016

STonewall said:
I have missed that 450-USD-offer. So how much a new alternator costs overseas? That 28-ampere-thing is still working, but...

Would'nt know that cost..........but to save you having to replace that alt., I'd seriously do a bit of preventative maintenance in order to save any issue with eisting alt. by removing that left side cover, unplug and using a quality electrical spray cleaner or even better, a bottle of Deoxit which has the small brush attached to the screw-on lid. Unplug that large plug-in going to voltage regulator and clean contacts of both connectors. Unbolt regulator from its plate mount and clean mounting plate surface and backside of voltage regulator. That mounting plate being fairly thick is cause that is a heat-sink for regulator to help disperse heat away from it

. Oher than that type of maintenance, no reason ever to have to replace an alt. on the earlier, older STeeds

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1992 - 2001 engine swap

Gotta make tracks