Article [13] ST1300 - Clutch Fluid Replacement

MileHigh

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This article and related pictures where performed on a 2006 ST1300, non ABS.

Fluid replacement for ABS models is exactly the same.

This article is for fluid replacement only. If you have clutch problems or, need to replace clutch components, those should be be taken care of first.

Service interval is every 12,000 miles or 2 years. Whichever comes first. YMMV

This procedure can be performed by one person. A second person is an added bonus.

Although not required, it is advisable to have-

*A basic understanding of hydraulic clutch systems.
*A basic understanding of the ST1300 hydraluic clutch system
* A Service manual. Honda manual preferred. **Even with it's faults.**

Tool list
This article utilizes an air operated vacuum pump LINKY This model does require a decent air compressor with at least a 20 gal. tank and, able to produce 4.3 SCFM @ 90 PSI.

A hand operated vacuum pump will work just as well. LINKY Your hand and wrist will get tired after a while though.

Long Phillips screwdriver
10mm, 6 point box end wrench
5mm Allen hex bit
Pocket screwdriver

Also, a 2 foot length of 1/4? aquarium tubing. Visit your local pet store for this.

Materials list
1 (one), sealed, new 12oz bottle of Honda DOT 4 brake fluid. Do not use brake fluid from a previously opened container. It will have absorbed moisture.
Shop rags or towels. Don't use kitchen paper towels. They don?t hold up and have lots of lint
Denatured alcohol
Masking tape
Fender covers or large beach/bath towels and, large plastic trash bags. The plastic bags can be placed over the fender covers or towels for excellent paint protection.

This article differs slightly from the service manual but, will accomplish the same result.

Differences in the service manual are -

A pressure bleeder is shown being used on the clutch master cylinder reservoir. Good luck finding an adapter, for the clutch reservoir, to utilize a pressure bleeder.

I finished the vacuum bleed with a manual bleed since, the clutch lever had waaaaaaay too much free travel and, the clutch disengaged way too early.

The clutch lever felt very mushy after the fluid replacement with the vacuum bleed and, required a quick, 2 step manual bleed.

Lets get started.

Here is all the tools you need. Both for panel removal and bleeding. Only item not shown is a 2 foot length of aquarium tubing from your local pet store. Tubing is listed in the "Tool list."


Materials needed



You only have to remove one panel!! The left lower cowl



Component location








Cover that painted tank! Use a plastic trash bag as well.


Turn handle bars towards the right to level clutch master cylinder reservoir


Wipe any dirt/dust from reservoir & cover



Clean any dirt/dust from under bleed screw cap



Wrap the clutch fluid reservoir with a shop towel. Secure with masking tape


Connect extraction hose to bleeder


Remove reservoir cover


Diaphragm plate is under cover


Diaphragm is under cover plate. Notice moisture, it will be cleaned later


Turn on vacuum bleeder, remove old fluid from reservoir


Suck out any crud on sides and bottom of reservoir


Refill with fresh fluid


Connect bleed hose attachment to bleeder




Ready to bleed. Install 10mm, 6 point wrench over bleed screw. Place rubber boot over bleed screw.



Start bleeding. Don't allow reservoir to run empty!









When done vacuum bleeding, fill reservoir to proper level



Clean reservoir cover, diaphragm plate & diaphragm with denatured alcohol




At this point, I reinstalled diaphragm, diaphragm cover plate and, reservoir cover.

I checked "feel" of clutch lever and, started the bike to check operation.

The lever felt like it had too much free travel "mushy feel" and, the bike wanted to launch with almost zero clutch travel!!

I followed up with a manual "finish" bleed.


To perform the manual "finish" bleed, install your 10mm wrench on the bleed screw. Next, attach a 2 foot length of aquarium tubing to the clutch bleed screw.

Pump the clutch lever until you feel resistance. Hold the lever against the resistance.

Open the bleed screw slightly until the clutch lever starts to close (pull closer.)

Repeat a couple of times until the clutch lever feels correct. A nice, smooth, full pull with complete clutch disengagement. You might even want to start the bike to double check.

The clutch lever should have minimal free travel. I could not find any specs in the service manual nor, owners manual.

After properly done, it appears to have 1/8 - 1/4" free travel.



Manual "finish" bleed needed to complete fluid replacement




Remove reservoir cover and, fill clutch reservoir to proper level after after manual "finish" bleed.

Go ride!:D
 

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Joined
Jun 28, 2008
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Location
Northern California
Bike
'08 GL1800
Re: ST1300 Clutch fluid replacement

Awesome and very timely. I hopped on the bike after two months of having my arm in a sling (Rotator cuff repair, that's the second arm!) and the clutch lever now has to be all the way against the handle grip to completely release the clutch plates. I know I took a bunch of pain pills but I sure don't remember the clutch feeling like that. So I will use your excellent article to guide me as I change the hyd. fluid and insoect the rest of the cllutch system.
 
Joined
Nov 25, 2008
Messages
396
Location
Twistyland, WV
Bike
2003 ST1300
Re: ST1300 Clutch fluid replacement

I have a small 4 gallon compressor which makes 1.7 SCFM @ 90 PSI. Do you suppose that would work with the same recommended Mityvac here? I don't really care if it slows the operation down. I need to do the clutch and brake flush before leaving on a longer trip in November.
Thanks, Joe:03biker:
 
Joined
Nov 9, 2008
Messages
80
Location
Massachusetts
Bike
St1300
Re: ST1300 Clutch fluid replacement

Just buy the manual MityVac--works fine. If you get a bleeder that leaks lots of air ie need to pump the Vac a lot, then take the bleeder out and wrap teh threads with teflon tape. For most of the bleeders, it just takes a couple pumps every few seconds to keep the vacuum maintained.
 
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OP
MileHigh

MileHigh

Juvenile delinquent
Joined
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Messages
728
Location
Littleton, Colorado
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2006 ST
STOC #
6674
Re: ST1300 Clutch fluid replacement

I have a small 4 gallon compressor which makes 1.7 SCFM @ 90 PSI. Do you suppose that would work with the same recommended Mityvac here? I don't really care if it slows the operation down. I need to do the clutch and brake flush before leaving on a longer trip in November.
Thanks, Joe:03biker:
Hey Joe,

You should be fine with the smaller compressor. Especially on the clutch fluid replacement. It doesn't take much to do the clutch.

You should also be OK, even with brake fluid replacement, except when you get to the Proportioning Control Valve. That one takes a while longer and, needs more volume to maintain the Bernoulli principal.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bernoulli's_principle

That's how a vacuum bleeder works. :)

You might have to take a coffee or soda break with the PCV on the brake bleed to let the air tank re-fill. Close the bleeder valve and, let the compressor build air while you have a soda and, check off your work in the mean time. :D
 
Joined
Apr 10, 2006
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133
Location
Monarch Beach, CA
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BMW R1200GS
STOC #
6177
Re: ST1300-Clutch Fluid Replacement

Excellent! This is just what I needed; my clutch works again. The master cylinder was so dirty.

NOTE: Your pictures show the small clip located on the bottom of the master cylinder, my manual does not. I noticed this clip attached to my bleeder, so be careful.

Thanks again.

Don
 

Gus1300

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Haymarket VA
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04 1300A
Re: ST1300-Clutch Fluid Replacement

What does the clip do? It doesn't look like it's attached to anything like a needle valve or such, or is it?
 

Mellow

Joe
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Re: ST1300-Clutch Fluid Replacement

What does the clip do? It doesn't look like it's attached to anything like a needle valve or such, or is it?
The fiche refers to it as a 'protector'.. Not sure what that means.
 

Gus1300

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Haymarket VA
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Re: ST1300-Clutch Fluid Replacement

Figured out what the clip does; don't ask how! It protects/covers a small hole on the 'inside' where a very high velocity stream of fluid 'exhausts' back into the reservoir when the clutch (and I assume also, brake) lever is pulled in. My assumption is it protects the rubber boot inside from being eroded from this stream and diffuses it into the reservoir pool of fluid. The 'outside' of the clip has a hole in it and fits over the hole where fluid enters the system from the reservoir; the ring end has 3 tabs that hold it securely (upside down) in the bottom recess of the reservoir. And if you happen to pull in the clutch lever while the cap is off, and this clip is not in place, be prepared to quickly clean a good bit of brake fluid off your windscreen and wherever else it happens to get...again, don't ask how I know!! :banghead:
 
Joined
Feb 4, 2009
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Location
Brockville, Ontario, CANADA
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ST1300A
I changed my clutch fluid tonight, thanks for all the tips in this thread.
I used a plastic syringe attached to a small see-through plastic hose, connected to the end of the bleeder nipple, to draw the fluid through the line. It worked great and the syringe was only $2.99 for a 2 pack at the TSC store.
 
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Joined
Jul 21, 2011
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4
Location
Fairfax, Virginia
Bike
Honda ST 1300A
STOC #
8452
Re: ST1300 Clutch fluid replacement

I just replaced the clutch fluid following the article. Worked great. I never had to open the manual. I found out I had a lot of air in the system. Thanks for the great pictures and directions.
 

Frank.Jester

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Jun 9, 2012
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Melissa, Texas
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2003 ST1300
Mellow,
I live here in the DFW area(Melissa) and am coming up on need for a 30k service. Do you know of an independent mechanic I can lean on for help?
Thanks,
Frank
 

Mellow

Joe
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Mellow,
I live here in the DFW area(Melissa) and am coming up on need for a 30k service. Do you know of an independent mechanic I can lean on for help?
Thanks,
Frank
I can help ya Frank. I'm not mechanic but I'm independent LOL.. I've just almost everything to an ST1300 as far as maintenance.

A valve check requires a cold bike. So, you can take off all the associated plastic and I'll come over w/shim kit and manual. We can also do brake and clutch bleeds and look over a few other small items.

I have a nice summer flu at the moment and some family stuff as well as the Blue Ridge Gathering coming up so if you can hold off 'til say the end of Oct (last two weekends) I should be able to help.
 

MrB

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Columbia, Illinois
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2013 GL1800 F6B
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8791
Thanks for the great walkthrough! Got an '06 with 7000 miles, figured it couldn't be toooo bad. Was wrong. Whatever it is, time, heat, condensation formed from heat/cool cycles, the fluid was a mess.
My new Motion Pro Bleeder, (thanks st-owners.com!), made the job easier and this walkthrough gave me the experience of doing it before actually doing it. Pictures make all the difference.
Speaking of pictures, here's what 6 years and 7000 miles looks like:

The gunk in the middle photo had a slimy consistency, not unlike mucus. Since the clutch reservoir sits leaning left I'm hoping none of that made it's way into the system.
Used almost the whole (small) bottle til it ran clear out of the bleeder valve.

Love this site!
Robert
:bk13:
 
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