Need advice to remove battery!!!

Look up higher, the bolt is at the top of the bracket.

Screwt, here it is.

If you like, I can PM you with a picture from the micro fiche.

http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/1/Make/Honda/YearID/47/Year/2006/ModelID/5148/Model/ST1300A/GroupID/185934/Group/BATTERY

Item 13 is the bracket and 22 is the bolt.

Maybe next time it would be best to ask Manuel if he can do it for you!

If it isn't too late, watch out for those little thread inserts that the wires bolt into, when you tip the battery over they tend to fall out.

hojo in sc said:

If it isn't too late, watch out for those little thread inserts that the wires bolt into, when you tip the battery over they tend to fall out.

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On the left coast, we call them nuts.

ligito said:

On the left coast, we call them nuts.

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LOL !

Guys, I am at the same predicument and I am dumpfounded. I can't even get item 14 off ( I think Honda calls it the battery cover). How do I remove item 14 to get to the battery bracket ( item 13)?
Thank you in advance.
Kenny

jfheath said:

Look at the diagram for Item 14 - post #2 by ligito - There are 3 upward pointing tabs, each with a latch on the end. These hold the main fuse holder in place. You need to release the latch by pushing the back one back (or the front ones forward) - just a little - enough to lift the main fuse holder up. The fourth tab is on the right hand isde, and is horizontal. Press down on it a little to allow the cover to pull away from the top.

If you have a later model ST1300 (2008 on I think), the battery cover looks a little different in that it also includes the infill for the hole between frame and side panel. There are a couple of push fit clips to be aware of as you pull the cover away from the bike.

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John, thank you very much. I see what I have to do now. Kenny

Many thanks for the above discussion! I also have to get to my battery as it seems to be in declining health since sitting idle over the winter - even with a battery tender on it! I'll be taking it out tomorrow morning and taking it in for a full check to see if it's reached the replacement stage. The service records from the previous owner don't mention a new battery, and he had the bike for 4 years, without much riding during the last year he rode it - we'll see what the test shows tomorrow!

i will highly recommend you all do this Simple idea I added to my 13

this is a 10-12gage wire about 4-5" long. it connected to the Hot side (doh) and i have a plastic end cap that i slip on when i simply tuck it up under the side cover.
it is very easy to reach when the bike - - - - god forbid - - - i need a jump. you can ground any where on the frame.

this MAKES it easy

rapide said:

i will highly recommend you all do this Simple idea I added to my 13

this is a 10-12gage wire about 4-5" long. it connected to the Hot side (doh) and i have a plastic end cap that i slip on when i simply tuck it up under the side cover.
it is very easy to reach when the bike - - - - god forbid - - - i need a jump. you can ground any where on the frame.

this MAKES it easy

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I think I'd put a fuse into that wire just to be on the safe side.

jfheath said:

Yikes !

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+1!

Don't do that, put a proper SAE connector with a fuse, wired directly to the battery. Then connect to that to charge or jump start it or run accessories, i.e. air pump. Something like this...



I did this and placed the connector where I can access it without removing the seat or any plastic.

Edit: updated to remove jump starting... my typing got ahead of my brain.

I also recommend that a fused SAE connector be used for trickle charging, rather than an unfused heavy gauge wire.

The problem with the "typical" SAE connectors, such as the one in the post directly above, is that the cable needs to be stowed somewhere under the seat, which can be a nuisance - it requires the seat to be removed whenever one wants to charge the battery or hook up a Stop N Go tire plugger.

I purchased a SAE cable with a flange mount from Optimate, then installed an inline 10 amp fuse and two ring terminals on the end of the cable. I attached the cables to the battery, drilled a 3/4 inch hole in the plastic panel in front of the battery, and now I have a connector on the side of the moto that I can easily connect to without having to take anything apart.

I only ride solo (I have a Corbin Smuggler where the passenger seat goes). This particular installation of mine might not be a good idea for folks who ride 2-up a lot, because the passenger's foot might rub up against the connector.

Optimate 40 Flange-Mount SAE Connector

I have my fused SAE connector positioned just behind my ST11's grab handle. Stays tidy until I need it, with no seat or plastic removal. If course, yours works just as well.

How big of a fuse is needed when jump starting a bike? And has anybody done that with an SAE connector? Those are rated at ~15A. For jumpstarting I'd want a far more stout connector and wouldn't bother with a fuse. But for any SAE connector (or port) – definitely fused.

ST Gui said:

when jump starting a bike?

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I measured 125amps pull on a standard day starting an ST1300.