new front brake pads, even a caveman...

STreaker · Aug 9, 2009

I had 10K miles on my front brake pads, and after 3 tours of motocamping with 50 lbs of gear, I decided to check my brake pads. I was amazed to find only about 10 % wear in 10K miles! The stock Honda brake pads are great and I would not want more grip. (the few times I stupidly hit my front brakes too hard would have resulted in a nasty slider if the brakes gripped better than stock). Putting one side back in I scratched the pad so bad, I decided to replace all the front pads. Its so easy, even a 57 year old caveman can do it....
Put on you favorite Dylan or Johnny Cash, then

open the brake reservoir and remove most of the fluid. A pharmacy will sell you a 5 cc syringe.

remove pad pins then take out the old pads

remove 2 caliper bolts per side

gently lift off the caliper

clean the inside slave "pots" with brake cleaner and an old toothbrush
put the old pads back in, without the pad pin and stick a large flathead screwdriver inbetween them and twist. You can easily force the slave pots back in all the way to make room for the new ones.

put the calipers back on but only insert the bolts for a loose fit. You may need a little side to side motion to get the new pads in.

install the pads and insert pad pins. Take your time on this, don't scratch them or the rotor, do it "nice and easy".

torque the caliber bolts to 25 lbs, and pad pin to 13 lbs.

Add DOT 4 to the brake reservoir, pump your front and rear brakes. Test the brakes, they will feel a little soft for a few brakes till they seat.

Did I forget anything? Oh yes, guys and gals over fifty: wearing reading glasses helps to see what you are doing. Total time was 90 mins.

TMUS · Aug 9, 2009

Thanks for the post. I will have to do mine soon. Changed tires about 1500 miles ago and the rear pads (16.5k) were gone and the front were at about a 1/8 inch. I replaced the rear and waited to do the front, this will be helpful, and I have bifocials aready, couldn't do it without them :lol:

STreaker · Aug 9, 2009

I should add that I used medium strength Loctite on the caliper bolts, as Honda did use a Loctite substance on original installation.

mayner · Aug 13, 2009

TMUS2122 said:
Thanks for the post. I will have to do mine soon. Changed tires about 1500 miles ago and the rear pads (16.5k) were gone and the front were at about a 1/8 inch. I replaced the rear and waited to do the front, this will be helpful, and I have bifocials aready, couldn't do it without them :lol:

What needs to come off for the rears? I mean, aside from the bags?

Exhaust?

Jeff Mayner

1129VLD · Aug 13, 2009

mayner said:
What needs to come off for the rears? I mean, aside from the bags?

Exhaust?

Jeff Mayner

I think only the left bag needs to come off, and the big bolt that secures the caliper to the frame. I replaced all my pads about a month ago, but I had the wheels off for new tires. So I'm not sure what exactly needs to be removed for pads only.

DaveST · Aug 13, 2009

mayner said:
What needs to come off for the rears? I mean, aside from the bags?

Exhaust?

Jeff Mayner

On my '07 there is an exhaust heat shield in the way of taking the caliper stop out. Like to take the wheel off. I dropped the left exhaust pipe. Looked like the thing to do to me.
Just putting new pads in I'm sure you don't have to do that. Pads come out before I get to that step anyway.

mayner · Aug 14, 2009

Thanks, men. ST-owners come through again. ;-)

mitch96 · Aug 14, 2009

I just replaced my front tire and inspected the brakes. Last tire change the brakes had plenty of meat. This go around there is about 1/8" on all front pads accept the left "wheel side" pad. It's almost down to nothing.. Weird.... maybe the pads arn't moving together???

Inquiring minds want to know...

I have a set of pads so in they go!!! Gonna lube up all the slider bolts too..

mitch

George · Aug 14, 2009

I suggest NOT using brake cleaner but clean brake fluid instead. Not comfortable with brake cleaner around the easily damaged piston seals. Just me.

Cecil G · Aug 15, 2009

mitch96 said:
I just replaced my front tire and inspected the brakes. Last tire change the brakes had plenty of meat. This go around there is about 1/8" on all front pads accept the left "wheel side" pad. It's almost down to nothing.. Weird.... maybe the pads arn't moving together???

Inquiring minds want to know...

I have a set of pads so in they go!!! Gonna lube up all the slider bolts too..

mitch

I just replace my front pads and had the same thing. Left inside pad was down to the wear grooves. The other three looked like they had about 25% thickness left.

Strange...

Shadowfax-ST · Sep 27, 2009

Thanks to the STreaker I've just replaced my first set of front pads. More thanks at:https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=828652#post828652 where I pointed to this thread and received further sound advice t'boot.

I'm confused over doing the rear so....

Pete in PA · Sep 27, 2009

To me anyway it looks lite the wheel will have to be removed to do the job right.

I want to be able to clean the 3 pistons thoroughly before I shove them back in.

Shadowfax-ST · Sep 27, 2009

Pete in PA said:
To me anyway it looks lite the wheel will have to be removed to do the job right.

I want to be able to clean the 3 pistons thoroughly before I shove them back in.

I watched Shadowfax's rear caliper seals replaced last year (chasing the rear brake bind issue we now all know to be caused by the SMC). The rear wheel DIDN'T have to come off and the big caliper bolt was accessed with a squeeze over the top of the exhaust, which I also managed today before loosing confidence in what I was doing.

If I'd paid more attention I'd be more useful to you but I hope this observation is useful enough to save you some time and prompt advice from someone more technically minded.

dduelin · Sep 27, 2009

There is no need to remove brake fluid from the reservoir as the fluid level drops from full as the pads wear. The new pads just raises the fluid back to original level it was the last time it was filled. Taking off the reservoir covers just allows the exposed fluid to attract moisture. Leave the system closed until a hydraulic system flush is done.

HillnTx · Sep 13, 2013

Adding to an old thread: It may be necessary to remove fluid from the reservior if you've bled your brakes between pad changes and added fluid. Installing new pads will potentially move the pistons farther back into the caliper then their previous position when the brakes were bled.

NorCalBusa · Aug 1, 2014

And its the perfect opportunity to flush the brake fluid.

scootac · Jul 30, 2016

Thanks to this post, I replaced my front pads this afternoon.I tried putting new pads in without taking the calipers off, but no good. Couldn't get the pistons back far enough. So 2 bolts later, had the caliper off, able to clean it MUCH better, and could push pistons in flush. Put new pads in, pin in loosely, then slid caliper over disk and 2 bolts back in. Need to get loctite and torque everything up proper, but things seem to be as they should!
I see some guys just drop the old pads out and replace with new without taking caliper off... but no way can things be cleaned doing that. Take the extra 2 minutes and pull the caliper! A whole lot better cleaning job and much easier to get new pads in!!!

STreaker said:
I had 10K miles on my front brake pads, and after 3 tours of motocamping with 50 lbs of gear, I decided to check my brake pads. I was amazed to find only about 10 % wear in 10K miles! The stock Honda brake pads are great and I would not want more grip. (the few times I stupidly hit my front brakes too hard would have resulted in a nasty slider if the brakes gripped better than stock). Putting one side back in I scratched the pad so bad, I decided to replace all the front pads. Its so easy, even a 57 year old caveman can do it....
Put on you favorite Dylan or Johnny Cash, then

open the brake reservoir and remove most of the fluid. A pharmacy will sell you a 5 cc syringe.

remove pad pins then take out the old pads

remove 2 caliper bolts per side

gently lift off the caliper

clean the inside slave "pots" with brake cleaner and an old toothbrush
put the old pads back in, without the pad pin and stick a large flathead screwdriver inbetween them and twist. You can easily force the slave pots back in all the way to make room for the new ones.

put the calipers back on but only insert the bolts for a loose fit. You may need a little side to side motion to get the new pads in.

install the pads and insert pad pins. Take your time on this, don't scratch them or the rotor, do it "nice and easy".

torque the caliber bolts to 25 lbs, and pad pin to 13 lbs.

Add DOT 4 to the brake reservoir, pump your front and rear brakes. Test the brakes, they will feel a little soft for a few brakes till they seat.

Did I forget anything? Oh yes, guys and gals over fifty: wearing reading glasses helps to see what you are doing. Total time was 90 mins.

ddemair · Jul 30, 2016

dduelin said:
There is no need to remove brake fluid from the reservoir as the fluid level drops from full as the pads wear. The new pads just raises the fluid back to original level it was the last time it was filled. Taking off the reservoir covers just allows the exposed fluid to attract moisture. Leave the system closed until a hydraulic system flush is done.

Thanks for posting that... it's what I suspected.

Back in the day, when I would do my own car brakes and drove older cars, it seemed like it was necessary because the brake fluid would slowly leak out and would occasionally need to be topped off. Of course, there would then be too much in the reservoir when the calipers were pushed back in.

Michael kowalchuk · Aug 7, 2023

STreaker said:
I had 10K miles on my front brake pads, and after 3 tours of motocamping with 50 lbs of gear, I decided to check my brake pads. I was amazed to find only about 10 % wear in 10K miles! The stock Honda brake pads are great and I would not want more grip. (the few times I stupidly hit my front brakes too hard would have resulted in a nasty slider if the brakes gripped better than stock). Putting one side back in I scratched the pad so bad, I decided to replace all the front pads. Its so easy, even a 57 year old caveman can do it....
Put on you favorite Dylan or Johnny Cash, then

open the brake reservoir and remove most of the fluid. A pharmacy will sell you a 5 cc syringe.

remove pad pins then take out the old pads

remove 2 caliper bolts per side

gently lift off the caliper

clean the inside slave "pots" with brake cleaner and an old toothbrush
put the old pads back in, without the pad pin and stick a large flathead screwdriver inbetween them and twist. You can easily force the slave pots back in all the way to make room for the new ones.

put the calipers back on but only insert the bolts for a loose fit. You may need a little side to side motion to get the new pads in.

install the pads and insert pad pins. Take your time on this, don't scratch them or the rotor, do it "nice and easy".

torque the caliber bolts to 25 lbs, and pad pin to 13 lbs.

Add DOT 4 to the brake reservoir, pump your front and rear brakes. Test the brakes, they will feel a little soft for a few brakes till they seat.

Did I forget anything? Oh yes, guys and gals over fifty: wearing reading glasses helps to see what you are doing. Total time was 90 mins.

I have a 2006 Honda st1300. Installing new front pads. I removed the spring clips and forgot which way they go on… they fit both ways, but there is a thin and thick slider in the middle…CAN ANYBODY TELL ME PROPER ORIENTATION FOR THESE???? Not one single comment in the how to’s as to orientation…. DOES anybody pay attention to this? I took mine out to clean the buildup off them

STRider · Aug 7, 2023

Michael kowalchuk said:
I have a 2006 Honda st1300. Installing new front pads. I removed the spring clips and forgot which way they go on… they fit both ways, but there is a thin and thick slider in the middle…CAN ANYBODY TELL ME PROPER ORIENTATION FOR THESE???? Not one single comment in the how to’s as to orientation…. DOES anybody pay attention to this? I took mine out to clean the buildup off them

Which clip are you referring to? # 8 or # 10?

The parts diagram actually illustrates orientation quite well.

If it's # 8 , identify those small tabs indicated by the red arrow. That side goes toward the fixed, not piston, side of the caliper. The role of those tabs are to retain the pad against the fixed. interior, side of the caliper. The other pad is moved by the brake pistons, and the caliper slides on the pins (# 11 & 12) as the brakes engage and the friction material on the pads wears away with use.

Installed backwards, those tabs can prevent the outer pad from moving which is not good.

Hope this helps.

Oh, and Mellow's pointer on your other post is loaded with useful information.

new front brake pads, even a caveman...

STreaker

TMUS

MSF Instructor 32 years

STreaker

mayner

1129VLD

"71David5"

DaveST

mayner

mitch96

George

Cecil G

Shadowfax-ST

As ridden by Pat

Pete in PA

Shadowfax-ST

As ridden by Pat

dduelin

Tune my heart to sing Thy grace

HillnTx

NorCalBusa

scootac

Will Ride for Food

ddemair

Michael kowalchuk

STRider