Seeking advise on ST1100 Headlight bulb replacement

I had awful thoughts of wanting to sell the bike just yesterday. It is amazing how proper insight and information can make something that appear to be so difficult, be actually doable. I used my phone to take several pictures from behind and worked with touch and feel. I was actually surprised how the clips were released rather simply.
Now I just have to wait for the shim and bulbs to arrive.

So, I received the EIKO H4 45/45 bulbs (J&P cycle, $8.99 each) and Shim Kit model 6051 ($12.65 at MCL OUT OF BUSINESS - DO NOT ORDER) while I was traveling for work, so I was stoked to come back and finish the job.
The shim kit from motorcyclelarry came with additional and very well done instructions on finishing the job.
Needless to say I struggled with putting the bail clip back on but once I ran a light through the top (handlebar) and used a mirror from my Ruckus for added perspective and visibility, everything worked very well. Tested lights and they work, low beam and high beam. Again, thank you very much for all the assistance and invaluable help. You guys are the best!

d.

Twenty4valves said:

So, I received the EIKO H4 45/45 bulbs

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Should have caught this earlier, when mentioned in the thread, but why put in the weak, stock 45/45W bulbs, when even a switch up to 55/60W would be better? Everyone here, to my knowledge, went to the effort to get the shims in order to use the 55/60W, or greater wattage bulbs, which do require the shim to accommodate the different base. Did the EIKO bulbs actually have a different base than the OEM 45/45W?

Bush said:

Should have caught this earlier, when mentioned in the thread, but why put in the weak, stock 45/45W bulbs, when even a switch up to 55/60W would be better? Everyone here, to my knowledge, went to the effort to get the shims in order to use the 55/60W, or greater wattage bulbs, which do require the shim to accommodate the different base. Did the EIKO bulbs actually have a different base than the OEM 45/45W?

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Yes, the shims were needed for the H4 EIKO bulbs. I should have taken more pictures. I was not sure if I would have to make any modifications to the electrical system of my ST1100 if I switched to the 55/60W. I will say that having high beams again is very helpful and having had the experience of changing them will make it much easier next time if an upgrade is desired. Considering that I have been riding my 1979 CBX for the last eleven years, with the mediocre candle light it possesses, these lights are a dream!

Twenty4valves said:

I was not sure if I would have to make any modifications to the electrical system of my ST1100 if I switched to the 55/60W.

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No change required for that.

Uncle Phil said:

Can't come in from the top (removing the windshield, etc.) on the ST1100 ABS/TCS. I find coming in from the bottom up is the way I have to do it.

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This caught my attention, as I need to replace a bulb and was planning to remove the windshield, etc. based on what I read in the manual. I had also planned to install my police speedo at the same time, which was why I haven't tried going in from the bottom yet with the bulb. I do have an ABS model, so now I'm wondering how much time I'm going to need to budget; sounding more and more like a major PITA...

Assuming the ABSI models are similar to the ABSII models which I have, the ABS computer is 'attached' to the back of the speedo/tach unit blocking access from the top. Reaching the bulbs from the bottom is not a big issue - unhooking that pesky retaining wire is what is usually the problem. A light touch is needed to do it - sometimes it's a 10 minute job to replace a bulb, sometimes it's a hour job! ;-) I usually sit on the floor on my butt and reach up from there. I do have large hands which make it a little more difficult. ;-)

Joseph/TX said:

This caught my attention, as I need to replace a bulb and was planning to remove the windshield, etc. based on what I read in the manual. I had also planned to install my police speedo at the same time, which was why I haven't tried going in from the bottom yet with the bulb. I do have an ABS model, so now I'm wondering how much time I'm going to need to budget; sounding more and more like a major PITA...

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My 1100 is an ABSII and I went from the bottom. It worked well. This thread had all the information I needed for a successful job.
I ran a light from the top and used a mirror for added perspective. I do have a lift at home so that made it easier. Once I was done reading this thread, looking at the links, pictures and diagrams I got the job done in under a hour. Good luck!

I have just replaced my headlight bulbs, screen and two plastic covers off, USED a small mirror and a head torch to remove the clip, one bulb was corroded so had to lever off, all in took me twenty mins, I was happy with that