Article [13] ST1300 - Grip Heater Installation

PopJack

Die young, after a long life.
Joined
Aug 22, 2008
Messages
760
Location
Oak Ridge, Tennessee
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2005 ST1300
STOC #
8220
I decided to document the way I installed my grip heaters. I bought SYMTEC brand grip heaters with the Rocker Switch and copied WILLIMAKIT's installation of the switch.

Because I'm a nut, I also wanted an LED to let me know when the heaters were on. This was not part of the kit, but was assembled from loose parts.

I used relays with my installation because of how I wanted to mount the switch.


Part 1 – Install heater elements

Step 1: Wash your motorcycle. This is an important step if you are going to take photos of the installation. Otherwise it is optional. I forgot this step.

Step 2: Remove Bar Weights. Hold the bar weight with one hand while removing the bolt. The bar weights themselves do not screw in. One of the bar weights had vibrated out a bit, so I tapped the retainer back in using a smallish socket and a hammer.




Step 3: Remove Grip puppies and Grips. I used compressed air blown up under the grips- worked like a champ. The grips were not damaged and I re-used them. After they were removed, I cleaned the plastic and metal surfaces with Acetone.



Step 4: Position and stick on heating elements. Position wires with an eye toward looming later.



Here's what it looks like applied:



Step 5: Reinstall Grips- I used liberal amounts of hairspray ($1.00 a can- what a deal!) as a lubricant and adhesive. It worked well for me. Spray the inside of the grips as well as the heaters. I also reinstalled my grip puppies. I used baby shampoo and water as the lubricant. This has the advantage of washing my gloves the first few times it rains.



Step 6: Reinstall bar weights.
Rinse and Repeat for other side.

Part 2: Install switch

Step 1: Remove two Phillips head screws and remove control house top. Inside I removed the clamp that holds the cluster on the bar.



Step 2: I removed the switches from the top of the housing. Up to this point I was worried that water might get into the housing through the new switch. Obviously, it's not water tight.

Step 3: Drill hole for rocker switch. I drilled a ? inch hole and then used a pocket knife to enlarge it slightly for the switch to fit. The plastic is soft and easy to shape.



I also drilled a 1/8 inch hole for the LED.



Step 4: I soldered wires on the rocker switch and the LED (five total). I used 20 gage wire, that way the bundle was small and it was easy to route things in the control. This, however, also required relays to carry the "real power."

Each solder point was covered with heat shrink. The loose wires were then passed through a length of small heat shrink tubing. This provides good protection for the bundle and is easy to use.



Before buttoning everything up, I identified the loose ends of the wires with knots. (Center of switch, no knot, high side switch, three knots, etc.) After everything is covered, it all looks the same, so this saved me a lot of work.



Step 5. I enlarged the slot in the lower part of the housing where the control wire exited. I routed the new wiring (in heat shrink) through this enlarged slot and then along with the cables down the handlebars.



Step 6. Install the switch in place and glue in the LED. I used silicon adhesive on mine. Put dielectric grease on the exposed OEM switches, route the wires carefully and reassemble the controls. If you have a volt/Ohm meter, this is a good time to check that all the wiring does what you think it does.

Part 3. Routing Wiring and Relays
All of my relays (I use a lot) are located under the right hand faring. I removed the Tupperware necessary to access this area. All cables were carefully routed along routes defined by OEM and wire tied carefully to prevent movement.

(Note to self: Invest in Wire Tie Stock)

The LED I bought requires a load resister in series with it, or it will draw too much amperage and burn up. I was assisted in selecting the diodes I needed and load resister at the electronic store where I bought the relays. This is how it all looks:



Step 1. Build an electronic device consisting of two diodes and a load resister. This "Y" allows voltage to be put in either leg without energizing the other leg. Figure out which side of the LED should be positive and negative. If you are as bad with this kind of stuff as I am, experiment for a while to make sure the diodes are oriented properly.


Step 2. If you've enjoyed yourself so far, you can test the installed LED without the required load resister and burn it out. You then get to do a lot of it over.

Step 3. Route switched power to the area of the relays and find a good ground. I use a switched circuit breaker box under the seat for power.

Step 4. Hook up relays. For this project, I used sockets. I normally use standard spade connections and heat shrink. I'm not sure if I'll use sockets again or not, I don't think it's more secure and it's harder to seal up things.




I use the same ground to hook up the ground wire on the Heater units.

I spliced the LED leads (the two legs of the little wire man) into the power leading to the heaters themselves- not to the leads from the switch. This way when the LED is on I know that the relays are working properly.



Step 5. Seal the whole mess up. I'm not really proud of how this one looks, but every connection is soldered and sealed. Because of the way I did it, there was no good way to use heat shrink. I use heavy duty electrical tap (88) to seal up, along with silicon where necessary. I am very picky about my tape!





Step 6. Tuck everything in place, double check the looming, put the Tupperware back on.

Part 4: Enjoy.
Sit on your bike in the garage, make spaceship noises with the key on and turn on your grip heaters. Watch the cool little LED light up and tell you that all is right with the world. Feel your hands get warm. Begin contemplating your next Farkle adventure.




EDIT: It's been 18 months since I installed these heaters. They work very well and I have REALLY enjoyed having them. The little LED works great too. Someone noticed I had a throttle lock and ask if it interfered. The answer is "no." I never thought about the throttle lock being an issue, I might have worried, but as it turns out there was no conflict at all. This was a wise investment- one of my favorite farkles.
 

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cdp70

"Living the Dream..."
Joined
May 7, 2009
Messages
194
Location
SparTa, NJ
Bike
2003 ST 1300A
STOC #
8175
Re: PopJack's Grip Heater Installation

Wow!! Nice install and write up. I'm starting to think I might be able to do this at some point... If I only had some more electrical know how,lol.
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PopJack

PopJack

Die young, after a long life.
Joined
Aug 22, 2008
Messages
760
Location
Oak Ridge, Tennessee
Bike
2005 ST1300
STOC #
8220
Re: PopJack's Grip Heater Installation

As mentioned, I blantantly stold the idea of the switch location from Willimakit. I don't know if I would have thought of it or not!
 
Joined
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72
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Port Townsend area, Wa.
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2004 st1300
Re: PopJack's Grip Heater Installation

Great installation and write up. I was thinking of installing grip heaters as I was riding to work yesterday, 39 degrees. This helps me a lot, Thank you.
So, the Symtec heaters a good choice?:04biker:
 
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PopJack

PopJack

Die young, after a long life.
Joined
Aug 22, 2008
Messages
760
Location
Oak Ridge, Tennessee
Bike
2005 ST1300
STOC #
8220
Re: PopJack's Grip Heater Installation

Good choice- well they get nice and hot. I'll let you know about durability in a year or two.

From various people on the board, however, they seem to work pretty well. I haven't used them except to verify that they work.

EDIT: Now used them on some cool (not real cold) days. They work well and I find myself running them on low. In cold rain, though, they have a hard time keeping up. This may because of the grip puppies- which are really big sponges.

EDIT#2: I have now used them on some really cold days (12 F). They are very nice. I have some heated gloves. Without the gloves, the grips are a life saver! With the gloves they are still VERY NICE and supplement the glove's heat noticeably.
 
Joined
Dec 28, 2009
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Location
Fraser Valley, BC
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Red
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8093
Re: ST1300-Grip Heater Installation

Interesting note about grip puppies:

http://stromtrooper.com/showthread.php?t=33045

It's possible to place symtec ATV heaters over grips under grip puppies. ATV heaters have equal heat on both sides instead of unequal heat like motorcycle grips. This should place the elements closer to your hands with more heat transfer.
 
Joined
Jun 23, 2013
Messages
113
Location
Galt. Ca.
Bike
2007 ST1300A
Thank you for the thread. I just ordered the same kit to copy your install. Very nice I love how it looks like a factory set up! Awesome! Can't wait to start this project.
 
Joined
Jun 23, 2013
Messages
113
Location
Galt. Ca.
Bike
2007 ST1300A
Just installed these this weekend. Love how it comes out looking like a factory install. Man they get hot! I didn't do the LED light mainly due to my impatience and excitement. Thanks again, as I probably wouldn't have tried to put the switch there. Also I used Mellows post on the switched key power to power the system. I found a cool set up at Napa that you remove the 10amp mini buss and plug in an adapter that then takes two minis with a pigtail coming out of it. I liked this due to the fact of not corrupting the factory wiring at all.
 
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PopJack

PopJack

Die young, after a long life.
Joined
Aug 22, 2008
Messages
760
Location
Oak Ridge, Tennessee
Bike
2005 ST1300
STOC #
8220
Glad it worked out for you. I've been very happy with mine which I guess are about four years old.
 
Joined
Jun 23, 2013
Messages
113
Location
Galt. Ca.
Bike
2007 ST1300A
Just a quick update. I've had the heated grips on now for slightly over 3 months and use them every morning for at least an hour one way to work. they work great even through my heavy waterproof winter gloves. Always use them on low only except when it got down to 23 to 25 degrees, then high setting was used. 23 degrees at 75 and 80mph is dam cold!
 
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