Article [13] ST1300 - Final Drive Oil Change

Oldbikefixr · Nov 12, 2015

ST460 said:
Fnmag, thanks for the empathy. I need to gain the confidence in my new torque wrench. Do you know of a quick way to test if it is functioning or not?

Most states below the border have standards divisions, which certify local labs to calibrate a number of things, including torque wrenches. Probably have them in Canada also.

ALSO...check Youtube. There are several videos on DIY wrench calibration. Note that these will get you close, probably close enough for our uses. In addition to what they show, you should repeat the process over a range of torques..say, low, middle and high on the scale. Don't do it at the extreme low or high values.

A 'bendy' torque wrench uses a scale near the handle with a pointer on the bar to measure the bar's displacement. Someone with a lot of time on their hands translated that into the torque scale. Problem with these is viewing parallax can affect your interpretation of the reading. Again...probably close enough. Plus side is that you don't need to have them calibrated.

ST460 · Nov 12, 2015

Thanks, I'll search on you tube, didnt even think of it.

Tom Mac 04a · Nov 13, 2015

ST460 said:
Fnmag, thanks for the empathy. I need to gain the confidence in my new torque wrench. Do you know of a quick way to test if it is functioning or not?

One thing to check first is the range of the torque wrench... specs can state the wrench is not accurate outside of it's range. I have 3, for low, middle and high torque bolts.

Will have to say tho, I never use it on those plugs.... they have an o-ring so I just snug it down gently.

paulcb · Nov 13, 2015

Tom Mac 04a said:
Will have to say tho, I never use it on those plugs.... they have an o-ring so I just snug it down gently.

maverickfhs · Jul 17, 2018

Please excuse me for bumping it up, but I started another thread and was advised to add comments/question on the article here.

Few questions though:

1- Should I warm up the bike or change right after a ride( just like oil change)?

2- I have some Mercedes 1 Liter Differential Oil (Hypoid Oil) SAE 75W-85 NEW 001 989 17 03 10 laying around, can I use it?

3- Give and take, how much does it take to fill up back to the maximum?

Should I use any pipe dope/sealant on the threads of both bolts? Thanks for all the help and advice.

Bush · Jul 17, 2018

maverickfhs said:
Please excuse me for bumping it up, but I started another thread and was advised to add comments/question on the article here.

Few questions though:

1- Should I warm up the bike or change right after a ride( just like oil change)?

2- I have some Mercedes 1 Liter Differential Oil (Hypoid Oil) SAE 75W-85 NEW 001 989 17 03 10 laying around, can I use it?

3- Give and take, how much does it take to fill up back to the maximum?

Should I use any pipe dope/sealant on the threads of both bolts? Thanks for all the help and advice.

Warming not necessary, but it will drain faster obviously.

Better choice would be a full synthetic hypoid - e.g.. Castrol Syntec 75W -90

Fill until the fluid is about to escape the fill hole. A bottle of hypoid will last several changes.

No sealant needed - and don't over tighten the fill bolt.

maverickfhs · Jul 17, 2018

Thanks Bush, appreciate the advice and I plan to mark the fill and drain plugs with a chalk/marker and will line it up accordingly.

Bush · Jul 17, 2018

maverickfhs said:
Thanks Bush, appreciate the advice and I plan to mark the fill and drain plugs with a chalk/marker and will line it up accordingly.

Or, if you are really concerned about how much to tighten them, use a torque wrench.

maverickfhs · Jul 18, 2018

Bush said:
Warming not necessary, but it will drain faster obviously.

Better choice would be a full synthetic hypoid - e.g.. Castrol Syntec 75W -90

Fill until the fluid is about to escape the fill hole. A bottle of hypoid will last several changes.

No sealant needed - and don't over tighten the fill bolt.

I believe Mercedes one is fully synthetic too, but I'll take your advice and get either 75W-90 or 80W-90. Thanks for your help

Bush · Jul 18, 2018

maverickfhs said:
I believe Mercedes one is fully synthetic too, but I'll take your advice and get either 75W-90 or 80W-90. Thanks for your help

If the Mercedes lube IS synthetic, then it should be fine. The difference in weight numbers is not that significant.

Andrew Shadow · Jul 18, 2018

Warming up the final drive first is not to speed up draining the oil but rather is to ensure as much contaminant as possible is suspended in the oil and drained with it. For this reason warming the final drive to operating temperature before draining the oil is recommended. Same logic as for warming up the engine prior to an oil change.

Mellow · Jul 19, 2018

I wouldn't worry about warming it up at all... There's a small magnet in the drain bolt that catches some metallic particles. I'll change my FD oil the same time I change my engine oil which is overkill but it's such an easy job and doesn't take much fluid so I just do that while I'm waiting for the engine oil to drain.

maverickfhs · Jul 19, 2018

Mellow said:
I wouldn't worry about warming it up at all... There's a small magnet in the drain bolt that catches some metallic particles. I'll change my FD oil the same time I change my engine oil which is overkill but it's such an easy job and doesn't take much fluid so I just do that while I'm waiting for the engine oil to drain.

Thanks Mellow, for now that's my plan too

Sp250boy · Sep 10, 2019

970mike said:
Re: ST1300-Final Drive Oil Change

Nice job on a step by step with some great pictures.

Hi I have just got SAE 85W90 hypoid mineral oil GL-5.. Manual states SAE 80 hypoid gear oil.. Should I use this or get SAE80W90?

ST1300 2003 Model

Thanks Steve

Andrew Shadow · Sep 12, 2019

You are good to use it. I would suggest synthetic as a better option next time however. Because the volume of oil in the final drive is so small synthetic is better at dealing with any heat produced.

Bush · Sep 12, 2019

Andrew Shadow said:
synthetic is better at dealing with any heat produced.

I'd say it may help to reduce the heat in the gear case simply because it is a superior lubricant which makes for less friction between the mating gears. Not to mention less wear too. Standard oils don't do well under shearing conditions, whereas synthetics are molecularly less affected by the shearing action that is constantly happening within a spiral bevel, or hypoid, gear.

Ozziesplace · Oct 14, 2019

Did mine over the weekend. May be the easiest fluid change I have ever done. Thanks for the pointers on this thread.

jbird24 · Jul 29, 2020

Mellow said:
This is pretty easy stuff, but I figured what the heck.

Step 1: (Get some Final Drive Gear Oil - I just use the Honda brand)

Step 2: (You need a 17mm wrench or sockets)

Step 3: (Put your bike on the centerstand and your oil drain pan under the Final Drive)

Step 4: (Very Important: Loosen the Fill Plug 1st - then remove the lower Drain Plug)

Step 5: (Let it drain... Let it drain...)

Step 6: (Clean out drain plug and magnetic center)

Step 7: (Inspect the Fill Plug and O-ring for any damage)

Step 8: (Install Drain Plug 14 ft.lbs. - a new crush washer is optional)

Step 9: (Gear Oil Fill - I use a small tube over the oil container to help)

Slide the tube into the filler hole and slowly squeeze the container.

Once new oil comes out of the Fill Hole, you have added the max amount of oil.

Step 10: (Install Fill Plug - 9 ft.lbs.)
... You're done...

Can you use mobil 1 75w90??

Gus1300 · Jul 29, 2020

I use Valvoline 75W90, I'd be willing to bet Mobile 1 is fine.

jbird24 · Jul 29, 2020

Gus1300 said:
I use Valvoline 75W90, I'd be willing to bet Mobile 1 is fine.

Thanks, just wanted to buy some at autoparts stores, vs ordering

Article [13] ST1300 - Final Drive Oil Change

Oldbikefixr

ST460

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paulcb

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