Article [13] ST1300 - Final Drive Oil Change

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I have never changed my differential oil since buying my 2006 ST1300 around 2008. Cracked it open and lube still came out the fill cap. Thanks all for inspiring/shaming me to maintain a virtually infallible machine. :) The differential oil wasn't very dirty at only 41K miles.
 
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Obo

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Changed mine today for the first time since I've owned the bike (Oct 2019). It will be done yearly from now on when I change the engine oil!!

It was green/grey :eek: but replaced with some nice clear/amber. Almost forgot how much gear oil stinks! I used to oil my Nighthawk's chain with 80w (it's what they recommended for it back in the 80's....)

IMG_3853.JPG
 
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dduelin

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That looks almost like it got water in it somehow.

BTW I still use 80w on my chain but mix it with ATF.
 
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If it ate brass, someone put the wrong oil in there.
Does look like moisture also.
 
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It takes so little gear oil, last week I changed mine and it looked like a chocolate milkshake.
I have owned this second ST bike for a year and bought it with 42,000 miles on it.
Don’t think it was ever changed.
So I let it drain over night, checked the gears and they looked brand new.
Added another ounce in the morning to rinse some more out, then did a fill.
A day later I drained that out and now I’ll run this for 10 months till next spring.
 
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Joe
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I have always replaced my gear oil about ever other engine oil change but I think I also get bored and change it with the engine oil just for grins... it's cheap and a bottle lasts a long time. Just don't over torque the drain or fill bolts.
 

dduelin

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That's what I was thinking, unless it wasn't normal gear oil in there to begin with... or there was some brass in there the fluid "ate"
There’s no brass in the final drive.
 
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Joe
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Yeah, the normal honda gear oil has a green-ish tint to it so probably some moisture over the years entered through the vent.. could just be high humidity or lots of riding in the rain... maybe a low water crossing but that's pretty high water to reach that. Just change and it should be good to go.
 
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I have always replaced my gear oil about ever other engine oil change but I think I also get bored and change it with the engine oil just for grins... it's cheap and a bottle lasts a long time. Just don't over torque the drain or fill bolts.
Wouldn't hurt to replace the o-ring on the fill cap. They do retain a permanent squash after a while and may lead to metal/metal contact around the perimeter.
Just a note....these caps are the same as the valve covers that were used on the old Honda small bikes.
 
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Joe
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Wouldn't hurt to replace the o-ring on the fill cap. They do retain a permanent squash after a while and may lead to metal/metal contact around the perimeter.
Just a note....these caps are the same as the valve covers that were used on the old Honda small bikes.
I have no idea, never replaced one but good idea.
 
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Just don't over torque the drain or fill bolts.
What I like to do is mark the fill cap to the final drive casting before I remove the fill cap with a pencil mark, this way I don’t over over torque it with a 17 mm wrench
Fill cap is made of pot metal and breaks easily.
DAMHIK Don’t ask me how I know.
 
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