ST1300 trip odometer and clock issue

I left for Tunica, Ms today from DFW. I have noticed that when I turn my key off, then go to start the bike back up, the clock resets to 1:00 a.m., and the trip odometers go to zero. Everything else works normally, and the bike is running fine. The clock and trip counters are ok when I turn the key on. Its when I restart the bike that they reset. Is this a major issue, or could it lead to a bigger issue? I was planning on going to North Carolina and ride for about a week. Is this a ground somewhere?

Sorry if this is in the wrong place, but I'm on the road and posting from my phone.

Thanks.

There was something posted a few times about a blown fuse causing this. You would think that if it were a fuse it just wouldn't work. Don't ask me, I haven't looked at a wiring schematic on the 1300 to see how it gets power. But this is what I have read.

Take a look at this thread. We all said battery and it could be that as well. Others chimed in about the blown fuse which is where I got the information from in my reply above.

Link

Usually the first sign of the battery going bad. Put a voltmeter across the terminals and check the voltage while cranking. If its below ten (I think) your getting real close. I just changed mine based on the same facts 3/10/2010.

here's what i ordered...

http://www.batterystuff.com/batteries/motorcycle/sYTZ14S.html

Same CCA's as the original . 68 bucks shipped to your house.

- classic weak or drained battery symptom. voltage drops under cranking enough to reset the clock and trip.
- could also be loose or dirty connections at the battery or other end of those cables.
- reported to also be loose blown dirty connection 10amp fuse under the left side panel by the center stand assist handle.

The battery makes sense. I keep a tender on it, but its the original battery. I'll test it asap. Thanks all for the responses.

Original battery in an '04 gets my vote for source of the problem.

Well, it was the battery. The good folks at Honda of Chattanooga got me in this morning. They tested the battery and it was going bad. The new battery fixed the issue. Thanks again for the responses.

So, my 2007, newly purchased from STealer in 2009, did this exact thing Sunday. Got home after a push start and all was well, and the volt meter indicates good stuff. It did drop to 9.9 on start up, but will check again today. All connections are good. So the concensus is that it is the first signs of a battery on the outs? Are these things part of new buy warranty?

Reviving an old thread, but just wanted to add a solution.

had the trip/clock reset issue as well on a low mileage ST1300 (2010) ABS. Read the posts and went to buy a new battery; no joy. Did not work.
Spent 5 hours, stripped the Tupperware and all. Still not solution. Decided to replace all fuse; The 10Amp Battery fuse was shot.

Replaced the fuze and all is well... thanks!

st1300r said:

- classic weak or drained battery symptom. voltage drops under cranking enough to reset the clock and trip.
- could also be loose or dirty connections at the battery or other end of those cables.
- reported to also be loose blown dirty connection 10amp fuse under the left side panel by the center stand assist handle.

Click to expand...

whazisnehm said:

The 10Amp Battery fuse was shot.

Click to expand...

Keep a close eye on that, because if something in the system caused the fuse to blow in the first place, it could well happen again.

--Mark

A five year old battery doesn't owe anybody much. When it's over, it's over.

Hi folks,
I just ran into this problem. Like usual though, my solution just can't be as easy as new battery or blown fuse. So I was a farkelating, (v. [adding a new accessory]), on my 2007 ST1300 - no ABS, and ended up shorting +12V Battery to ground. Yes, I'm the idiot that thinks he can get away with not disconnecting the battery whilst doing electrical work; after all, I just retired from a 40yr electronics career...right? WRONG!
Good news = only blew a fuse....Bad news = clock resets to 1:00am and trip meters to zero with every key on.
After longer than I care to confess of troubleshooting, the electrical gods showed me mercy and I actually found the what, and more importantly the WHERE.
I found that the +12V keep alive signal coming from fuse "H" to the dash clock is intermittent. It is strongly indicating the intermittentcy is located precisely at the pin on the connector which plugs into the dash. The bigger of the two connectors, corner pin, red with green stripe wire. Why I'm posting this issue, is it looks like I need to extract the pin in question so as to examine/repair.
I've been trying to extract it, (without breaking anything), with no luck.
Does anyone out there have any information concerning this connector such as a part number, manufacturer, pin extraction tool type, or any other experience, knowledge or mysticism regarding the pin extraction of the connector in question?

marlonsaint said:

Does anyone out there have any information concerning this connector such as a part number, manufacturer, pin extraction tool type, or any other experience, knowledge or mysticism regarding the pin extraction of the connector in question?

Click to expand...

I've bought this "pin remover set"
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082FDGVD9?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_title

and this plastic connector set - and used neither one, yet.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FCLGF3T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sadlsor said:

I've bought this "pin remover set"
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082FDGVD9?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_title

and this plastic connector set - and used neither one, yet.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FCLGF3T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Click to expand...

We all buy things we "think" we need! Don't worry, you will use them someday and be proud that you bought them!

Sadlsor said:

I've bought this "pin remover set"
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082FDGVD9?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_title

and this plastic connector set - and used neither one, yet.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FCLGF3T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Click to expand...

Thanks ever so much, Sadlsor
I bought the pin set (prime; see it tomorrow....woo-hoo!) Found replacement cowl stay sub-harness local on ebay; picked it up today. Hopefully end of this project

Sadlsor said:

I've bought this "pin remover set"
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082FDGVD9?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_title

and this plastic connector set - and used neither one, yet.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FCLGF3T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Click to expand...

It's similar to the old joke...
Why are do you carry that elephant gun everywhere?
To protect myself from rampaging elephants.
There are no elephants here.
See....it works.

I have those same 'elephant guns' in my workshop. When you need one, nothing else will work just right.

FYI....these white housings can be dyed the color you are replacing by using an aggressive fabric dye such as RIT. They will come out a bit 'pastel' but will still be sort'a black, red, green...whatever you need. Depth of color will depend on how concentrated you mix the dye and how long you soak the housings.

Replacement wire of different gages (diameter) and color schemes is available from various industrial or automotive supply houses.

marlonsaint said:

Hi folks,
I just ran into this problem. Like usual though, my solution just can't be as easy as new battery or blown fuse. So I was a farkelating, (v. [adding a new accessory]), on my 2007 ST1300 - no ABS, and ended up shorting +12V Battery to ground. Yes, I'm the idiot that thinks he can get away with not disconnecting the battery whilst doing electrical work; after all, I just retired from a 40yr electronics career...right? WRONG!
Good news = only blew a fuse....Bad news = clock resets to 1:00am and trip meters to zero with every key on.
After longer than I care to confess of troubleshooting, the electrical gods showed me mercy and I actually found the what, and more importantly the WHERE.
I found that the +12V keep alive signal coming from fuse "H" to the dash clock is intermittent. It is strongly indicating the intermittentcy is located precisely at the pin on the connector which plugs into the dash. The bigger of the two connectors, corner pin, red with green stripe wire. Why I'm posting this issue, is it looks like I need to extract the pin in question so as to examine/repair.
I've been trying to extract it, (without breaking anything), with no luck.
Does anyone out there have any information concerning this connector such as a part number, manufacturer, pin extraction tool type, or any other experience, knowledge or mysticism regarding the pin extraction of the connector in question?

Click to expand...

I had this same problem, but it wasn’t battery because I lost my trip and clock as soon as I switched the bike on ( no cranking). So emboldened by Marlonsaint’s findings, I went digging. Unfortunately, my “always on” wire was perfectly intact at the instrument cluster. Exploring further down the wiring loom I came across a long, multi wire plug (possibly 26 to 30 wires) above and in front of the left cylinder head. As I was examining it, one wire came away from the back of the plug. Either stress or corrosion had severed it. It’s all the way at one end and seemed to be a bit short. To my delight I discovered that this was the other end of the same wire. I had found my smoking gun. I was unable to extract the pin, despite buying a pin removal kit. It was hard to see what I was doing as it was all slathered in grease (previous owner) for corrosion protection. So I simply bypassed the giant plug with a new separate connector for that one wire and hey presto I got my trip and clock back.They’ve been dead since I bought the thing last year. Unfortunately, now my air temp has gone blank. I’m suspecting this plug again and will report back when/if I find it. Unfortunately, my efforts in that regard are being hampered by having my wiring diagram on CD and no working computer with a CD drive. Every online image I find gets unreadable when zoomed in.

Have you tried the one from this site?


Josh

Josh_ST said:

Have you tried the one from this site?

Article [13] - ST1300 - Wiring Schematics for 03-07 Standard | ST1300 Articles

My previous bike's manual had a color coded wiring schematics and it was very easy for follow the wires. After becoming cross eyed looking at the B/W ST1300 schematics, I'd decided to create a colored version. I might have missed a line or a description here or there, so if you happen to see a...

www.st-owners.com

Josh

Click to expand...

That’s excellent, thanks so much. now I know the colours I’m looking for, no excuse now, it’s possible that I can access that plug from inside the left side pocket. Mine is an ex police bike, and for some reason they shorten that box by a few inches. They cut out a section near the bottom, then they push the bottom in through the top where it wedges in the taper. Glue is applied but the glue has failed (never buy a used car that has chassis components glued together, glues fail over time). So now I can pull the bottom of that box out to access the quad connector, underneath, which I did recently to install a USB/Volt meter. Sure beats taking off half the Tupperware off every time I need to do ANYTHING.