How do you replace a ST1300 headlight bulb

Scootabout said:

because I haven't cut off the bottom 2 flanges. What does that mean?

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Dont do this to the bulbs for your bike, I believe the US version of the ST1300 has different bulbs this is what they are referring to so just keep trying to get them seated correctly , you will know when they are in correctly as the spring clip that holds them in place will fit properly.

jfheath said:

Do you mean like the 1100 has (my 1100 had a roughly triangular, grey insert which fitted onto the fairing underneath the headlight part of the main cowl).
No - the UK (2006 model) doesn't have anything like that. You can get the bulb in without removing anything except the rubber shroud.

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I'm not at all very familiar w/1100 but sounds like a similar part. Was only on the 2003 ST1300 models here in the U.S.

Quick update. I got the bulb in the next day. It took 5 minutes. I don't really know what I did differently from the first time - probably just stayed calmer!

I've not cut off the flanges, and the bulb seems to be seated OK, with the wire clip in place. Glad I don't need to do a bodge.

I just bought a 2007 ST1300A. The left high beam was burnt out so I bought a pair of H4 bulbs. So today, my buddy and I spent well over an hour and a half getting the two headlights out. The right one came out as expected, with some grunting and swearing. The left one would not budge. The prongs were frozen in the connector. In a state of desperation, my buddy was able to pull back the rubber boot and unclip and pull the bulb out while it was still attached to the wiring connector. Then we were able to pull the whole assembly up to near the handle bars and wedge a screw driver blade between the back of the bulb and the connector and pry them apart. A bit crude but we finally got the connector detached without any damage that I can see. Although I read about cutting off the tabs it made no sense to me until I could not get the new H4 bulbs to seat. After a trip back to the computer, I realized what the "shims" were for and just ordered a set. It looks to me like I will have to cut off the two lower tabs of the H4 bulb seating ring and then put the shims on. However, some of you seem to be saying that the tabs don't need to be cut off. Since that looks like a delicate operation with great potential to damage the bulb, I would like to hear more about it. 1) Do you or don't you have to cut off the two lower tabs? 2) If you do, how do you cut them off without damaging the bulb?

Cutting the tabs off isn't a delicate operation. I use some tin snips and trim off the two lower tabs. I sit in front of the bike and reach up and under and do it by feel. If you carry a spare bulb, be sure to trim the tab before leaving home!

You don't have to cut the tabs off, you can take some square nose pliers and just bend them back and forth and they will pop right off. Place the pliers with the nose even with the round outer edge of the bulb base. You also do not need the shims for the 1300. They will just make it harder to latch the spring bail. The bulbs will seat fine in the 1300, the 1100 needs the shims.

I have 2 Toyota cars and a Honda car. You change the headlight bulbs in an ST1300 the exact same way as you do in those cars, even the boots are the same. There is a youtube video demonstration for the ST1300 that is easy to find. It is a bit of a tight fit but it takes about 2 minutes each. And, by the way, I bought OEM bulbs and I do not remember having to snip any tabs off although I could be mistaken there because it has been about 6 months since I replaced the two bulbs.

nglorioso said:

And, by the way, I bought OEM bulbs and I do not remember having to snip any tabs

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The USA bikes use a different bulb than the rest of the world's STs. They use H4 bulbs but I don't know what the STs are called. If you bought OEM ST bulbs (45W/45W) there's no snipping or bending required.

If you buy H4 bulbs (55W/60W) OEM for most other Honda bikes, you'll need to snip or bend the lower two tabs as they're located differently that what US STs require.

Thanks for the info on the bulbs. Shims or no shims. Snip or don't snip. All good stuff guys. On my bike it looks like the H4 bulbs must be snipped for sure. I will try with and without shims and let you know what I find.

I know this thread is a year old, but I just want to say thanks for the information - this was a great time saver. Also thanks to ST-DocLizard1 for suggesting that I put the fork in the locked position for more room. I used a clip-on lamp to get light into the area and then uploaded a picture of the target - boot and power connector back on. By the way, I went with the OEM bulb - tabs fit and no shims required.

Now I read this thread. Yesterday was my attempt at my first ST repair, the left head lamp. The Honda manual was nearly useless, "disconnect bulb 3P socket". After wiggling, pulling, twisting, etc and another visit to the manual, I finally felt the small tabs on the sides. Pressed and removed 3P (on top, facing the back of the bike, with my eyes closed, LOL). Dust cover a breeze. The retaining bail does what? manual arrows lend no help, back to playing "blind man". OK I feel it an it unsnaps and pivots away, the planets have aligned. Bulb in hand down to the local auto store. The tabs on the 9003 are at slightly different clock positions, light is important so off to the Honda boys and order the correct bulb, not in stock. Practiced replacing the old bulb, now with glove to ensure a clean bulb (practice). All worked well, get rid of the glove to feel the retainer, dust cover on and socket back. I aligned the center bulb connector first and slid on the side pair with relative ease.


After reading this thread I will trim the tabs of a 9003 H4 lamp for the next head light change and do it as a pair to keep the intensity of light the same. 2 for the price of one Honda lamp.

Sorry the arrows didn't help, I thought they might add to the great narratives in the previous pages. I found it easier to stand to the left of my tank and just reach straight in, that way I could actually see what I was doing. I also compared the bulb I was replacing with the OEM bulb at my dealer and they are very different in size and tab layout. If you do go with the H4 you should order the shims as suggested because my non-Honda bulb was loose. Glad it worked out for you.

A lot easier with the plastic removed! Just replaced both position marker bulbs. Already had the plastic off for other service. You can easily see what you're doing. Same with the headlight bulbs. Russ.

randy the x man said:

My left head lamp is out. How do I replace it?

Thanks
Randy

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With great difficulty the first time. It is easier for the second bulb. Unfortunately, most of us replace one at a time and forget how we did the first one by the time the second lamp fails.

I had my tupperware off last winter and did a preemptive strike and replaced both. I had more than a little difficulty unlatching the bail despite being able to see everything and having complete access.

Good luck!

Thanks to everyone's posts here, and to a picture I found so I could figure out the bail clip. Once I realized the clip is just under that plate attached by the right screw, it was a piece of cake. Of course I bought the Honda lights, and pulled out a brighter H4. Lol.
Thanks again guys.

I've just replaced both headlight bulbs on my 2008 ST1300 after reading these posts. I've never done it before. The first one took me about 15 mins; the second one less than 5 mins. I used a combination of getting at it from both above and below. But before you start put the bike on the centre stand; I found this makes it much easier as you can move the steering yoke without effort as you're doing the job in order to improve access for your hand. Also, stop after each stage and use a torch to have a good look and see what you're trying to do before you start doing it.

After replacing the anemic 45W Honda bulbs with something brighter, my bike has a new personality tic. Sporadically, but with now-increasing frequency, the right bulb works its way into a position to trigger the high beam. The indicator light comes on as well. This often manifests itself after the bike has been parked (always with the handlebars at hard-left lock). I can reach in and jiggle the bulb and mounting to make the issue go away for a while, but a better and more permanent solution begs to be found.

Looks like a job for Mr. Inspection Mirror.

ibike2havefun said:

After replacing the anemic 45W Honda bulbs with something brighter, my bike has a new personality tic. Sporadically, but with now-increasing frequency, the right bulb works its way into a position to trigger the high beam. The indicator light comes on as well. This often manifests itself after the bike has been parked (always with the handlebars at hard-left lock). I can reach in and jiggle the bulb and mounting to make the issue go away for a while, but a better and more permanent solution begs to be found.

Looks like a job for Mr. Inspection Mirror.

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When I was having ground circuit issues the headlight going to high beam on its own was a symptom. The first fix was creating a new ground connection out of the 24 pin harness connector found under the left middle cowl. This worked for a while but when the headlight started switching to high on its own I made a new ground for the 3 pin connector to the bulb. That fixed it for good.

There are some threads on weird electrical issues that have commonality with how the various circuits in the front of the 1300 are grounded. Tags to search are 24 pin connector, yellow bus connector, lights staying on.

I know there is an adjustment knob on the dash to raise and lower the headlight somewhat but can the headlight be raised any more than this knob allows? If two up headlight projects well but solo it could be a little higher than my adjustment knob allows.

dduelin said:

When I was having ground circuit issues the headlight going to high beam on its own was a symptom. The first fix was creating a new ground connection out of the 24 pin harness connector found under the left middle cowl. This worked for a while but when the headlight started switching to high on its own I made a new ground for the 3 pin connector to the bulb. That fixed it for good.

There are some threads on weird electrical issues that have commonality with how the various circuits in the front of the 1300 are grounded. Tags to search are 24 pin connector, yellow bus connector, lights staying on.

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Thanks, Dave. This is likely to be a problem to be tackled in the off-season. It's good to have some advance plan for what I may need to do / look for.