How do you replace a ST1300 headlight bulb

Joined
Nov 3, 2011
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63
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New Zealand
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St1300 '11 (frm new)
I've just replaced my headlight bulbs for the first time and have come to the following conclusion.

For other fellow newbies out there:

It's literally a 5 minute Job (per bulb) including unpacking the H4 and cutting off the tabs.

Work from top and/or bottom.

Under no circumstances (unless you have the hands of Goliath) is there any need to remove the headlight assembly as some tutorials suggest. Even then get someone with smaller hands to do the fitting for you.

Summary: Remove the connector (squeezing in at the sides to release the clips), remove the rubber boot, unclip and remove the old bulb, if you have the USA model replace with OEM 45/45 bulb or cut the lower tabs off an H4 bulb, ignore the shim if you do go the H4 route, replace in the reverse order. I put a thin smear of oil on the contact area of the rubber boot to make sure it slipped on easy.

You do not need the shim when choosing to use the H4 bulb over the OEM. The tab at the top is more than adequate to locate the position of the bulb, the lower tabs are only there to ensure the use of the OEM bulb. Obviously the USA version has some regulation regarding wattage so the tabs are different to the H4. In every other way the H4 is the same.

I installed a 55/60. I have used 55/100 on previous bikes but the differential between high and low beam is to great and dipping to low beam is like being plunged into relative darkness especially on a wet night.

Just passed my Warrant Of Fittness with flying colours :)

Cheers
 

ibike2havefun

Still above the sod
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Follow-up to my earlier post about erratic high beam behavior. Dave was spot on when he diagnosed intermittent grounding issues.

While the plastic was off last winter for some unrelated work, I had a look and found that the ground wire to the right side headlight bulb was badly, badly corroded. The connector also showed signs of heat damage, undoubtedly due to the much-too-high resistance in the corroded area.

It was so bad that the original "flag" style connector had to be replaced; at the same time I cleaned everything up and have had no further issues with intermitten spontaneous high beam illumination or failure to switch back to low.

The left low beam burned out (again) earlier this year; it may be time to look into getting one of the replacement harnesses from Eastern Beaver, so that I have a winter project... :) From what I have read, the EB harness will permanently eliminate the left low beam burnout habit that seems to be a fairly common foible on ST1300s.
 
Joined
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Cheyenne, WY
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'05 ST1300 "STinger"
It's literally a 5 minute Job (per bulb) including unpacking the H4 and cutting off the tabs.
I would say that to say every bulb after the 1st is 5 minutes. That 1st bulb change can be a real "learning" experience.
 
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Jan 23, 2017
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Fredericton, NB Canada
Replace my left one. It was easy after i relized the one i took out was original and i had to cut the lower tabs off of my new one.

Sent from my LG-V522 using Tapatalk
 

dduelin

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Any one know the part number of the position bulbs?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
The trade number of these bulbs is #194, a wedge base 12v 5 watt. The Honda p/n is 333-SAO-741.
 
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Sit on the floor, next to the bike and reach up behind the forks. As Mellow said, Oncea you've looked at the connector, it's not not too bad.
He is pulling your leg. Some people can do it with the tupperware on the bike in 30 seconds. Some of us take 30 minutes with the tupperware off. And still others manage to drop the bulb inside the housing, leading to colorful language and even more time spent doing this. If the last happens to you, the easiest way to get the bulb out is to pick the bike up, front wheel in the air, and shake it until the bulb falls out.:bow1:
 

MajorTom

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He is pulling your leg. Some people can do it with the tupperware on the bike in 30 seconds. Some of us take 30 minutes with the tupperware off. And still others manage to drop the bulb inside the housing, leading to colorful language and even more time spent doing this. If the last happens to you, the easiest way to get the bulb out is to pick the bike up, front wheel in the air, and shake it until the bulb falls out.:bow1:
While changing the position light bulb for an LED the bulb fell out of the rubber holder into the headlight shell. As I already had all the lower plastic off to do a valve clearance check I dismantled the front cowl so I could shake the bulb out of the headlight mount hole. When I told by buddy Joe about doing this he explained his wife fished the loose bulb out of his headlight assembly with a piece of wire and some masking tape. :bow1: Not bad for someone who rides a Harley. :D
 
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ST Gui

240Robert
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He is pulling your leg.
Not if he's talking about the original thread— changing the headlight. That's how several people here get to it. I can barely touch the position light sockets let alone pull them out so dropping the bulb in the housing is a real concern.
 
Joined
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Yikes what a pain.

Yes you have to reach in from the bottom. There are 2 tabs in horizontal positions one each side of the electrical connector.

Very hard to reach. But press the tabs somehow and remove the electrical connector.



Remove the rubber boot.

Unlock the wire bail lock

Remove and replace the bulb.

Phew
You forgot "Cut the freakin' tabs off":rofl1:
 
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I've just replaced both headlight bulbs on my 2008 ST1300 after reading these posts. I've never done it before. The first one took me about 15 mins; the second one less than 5 mins. I used a combination of getting at it from both above and below. But before you start put the bike on the centre stand; I found this makes it much easier as you can move the steering yoke without effort as you're doing the job in order to improve access for your hand. Also, stop after each stage and use a torch to have a good look and see what you're trying to do before you start doing it.
"Torch" That's flashlight for those of us that don't have English English as a second language..........:rolleyes:

Last thing we need is someone going up behind the headlight with a naked flame.......
 
Joined
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Kenly NC
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07 ST1300A(P)
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7649
While changing the position light bulb for an LED the bulb fell out of the rubber holder into the headlight shell. As I already had all the lower plastic off to do a valve clearance check I dismantled the front cowl so I could shake the bulb out of the headlight mount hole. When I told by buddy Joe about doing this he explained his wife fished the loose bulb out of his headlight assembly with a piece of wire and some masking tape. :bow1: Not bad for someone who rides a Harley. :D
Oh, c'mon, everyone knows Harley's come with wire and duct tape in the tool kit. :D Come to think of it, I carry them on the ST......Doh!

I just changed my position lights out for LED's, and yes, I almost popped a bulb out into the housing, just as I was pulling the socket clear, it popped out, and I could see it there, just teetering.........then it fell, the right way thankfully.
I've always used bubble gum on a piece of wire......forget where I first saw that.
 
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Not if he's talking about the original thread— changing the headlight. That's how several people here get to it. I can barely touch the position light sockets let alone pull them out so dropping the bulb in the housing is a real concern.
I have to admit i was not joking about some of the guys here can change a bulb (headlight) in 30 seconds...... and some of us take 30 minutes. At least somebody said the former, and I am one of the latter.

"Torch" That's flashlight for those of us that don't have English English as a second language..........:rolleyes:

Last thing we need is someone going up behind the headlight with a naked flame.......
During the first time I tried to change my headlight bulbs, I WANTED a blue flame wrench, as it is called by some.
 
Joined
Jul 9, 2013
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130
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hamilton Il.
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2003 Honda ST1300
This is my first headlight bulb change. My right low beam has died. The tabs were already broken off the plug going onto the bulb so it pulled off no problem. The rubber weather sealing boot slips off no problem. Thinking this is a breeze. I can see and feel the bail but haven't gotten it to move. I have read all the posts on this thread and haven't gotten it yet. My wonderful wife just showed me a great picture of the clip from another site. Now that I see how it works I think I can get it. Sure wish Honda would have put a good picture in their manual. Thanks for the great site and input. The picture shows that the latch for the bail is the top is stead of the bottom like I was trying to do. Push towards the front and then towards the 12 o'clock position. Hope I have it figured out.
 

ST Gui

240Robert
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Hope I have it figured out.
That's the drill. There's a small hook on the socket base that the bale must pass under enroute to 1200. Push drag anti-clockwise and you'll feel it release.

The only other thing is how you get to it. Depending on variables like finger strength and wrist flexibility you can approach it several ways. You've probably read about them all:

•Reach up from the bottom
•Reach down from the top
•Use your right hand for the STBD side/left hand for the PORT side
•User your left hand for the STBD side/right hand for the PORT side
•Literally face the back of the bike and use your right hand for the STBD side/left hand for the PORT side (This worked well for me)

Pro Tip: Use the Force. After burning the pic of the bale/latch/socket into your being try closing your eyes when manipulating the bale. This also worked for me. It helps you focus in the needed movement. Do it a couple of times and it gets pretty easy.

Now would be a good time to put in 55/60W bulbs. It's probably a good idea to change both bulbs anyway. Clip the bottom two tabs and put them in the sockets just as you would the OEM 45/45W bulbs. HUGE difference. Even better— LEDs. But that does take a little time to get the bulbs depending from where you order and to install. In the interim 55/60W.

You'll also find that even from Honda 55/60W H-4 bulbs are much cheaper than the 45W stockers. Keep the one good 45W bulb as a spare or buy an extra 55/60W bulb (my recommendation).
 
Joined
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This is my first headlight bulb change.... Hope I have it figured out.
My first took half an hour - with the fairing off. Consider the G6 LED headlight replacement. A pair are not much more than high quality halogen replacements and will last much longer. Search for G6 on this website.
 
Joined
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hamilton Il.
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2003 Honda ST1300
Now would be a good time to put in 55/60W bulbs. It's probably a good idea to change both bulbs anyway. Clip the bottom two tabs and put them in the sockets just as you would the OEM 45/45W bulbs. HUGE difference. Even better— LEDs. But that does take a little time to get the bulbs depending from where you order and to install. In the interim 55/60W.

Mine already had the 55/60w bulbs in it with the tabs snapped off. I snapped the new ones off and tried installing. Couldn't get the .~** bail to latch. Worked till all my fingers were sore. Took the bulb back out and looked at it. I realized that there was still some remainder of the tab sticking out. Took a file and spent 30 seconds on each tab smoothing it flush. Slipped the bulb back in and the bail jump on almost by itself. Apperantly there was enough tab sticking out in the way to keep the bulb from fully seating.

I spent the big bucks and bought the $26 brightest Silverstar Ultra bulb. I think it just had the regular H4 in before now right side is a different color light for sure. Will know tonight if it is brighter or not. Sure hope it is.
 
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