Article [13] ST1300 - HISS Key Programming

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Very grateful for this guide. I made my own harness, for the pins that plug into the main loom I pulled apart a blade fuse and used the blades, soldered and heat-shrunk to the wires, and these fitted nice and tight into the females in the socket. I used a 100 ohm resistor but couldn't see a reason to add a fuse; my basic electrical knowledge suggested that with the fuse in place, the maximum current was only 0.12A, and I assume the function of the resistor is to prevent damage to the ECU.
 
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This guide is excellent! I bought new keys and a transponder from the eBayers you recommended after snapping my only key. I transferred the transponder from the broken key into a new one which works fine. However, trying to program the new transponder for the second key, I have run into a problem for which I can't seem to find any info. I can put the bike into programming mode and it recognises the first key (4 short flashes), but it won't program the second key. I get the following flash code: 1 short, 2 long, 1 short. I haven't been able to find this code anywhere I've looked. If anyone has any ideas, I would be grateful!
 

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I have run into a problem for which I can't seem to find any info. I can put the bike into programming mode and it recognises the first key (4 short flashes), but it won't program the second key. I get the following flash code: 1 short, 2 long, 1 short. I haven't been able to find this code anywhere I've looked. If anyone has any ideas, I would be grateful!
The instructions on how to do this are in the Honda Workshop manual. My copy does not have a code for one short, two long, one short. It is a 2004 UK manual.

I didn't spot the advice as to where to get a transponder. I've only ever bought the official Honda key, had it cut and then programmed it myself.



I assume that you are aware that in order to program the second key, the first key has to be re-programmed first (having verified that it will actually start the engine). The first key is then removed and the second key put in and turned on for two seconds - after which it should blink four times repeatedly ??

ie - you do not have to start a complete new sequence for the second key by putting messing around with the 12v connection to the ignition pulse generator connector.

You must make sure that the second key to go into the ignition is far enough away from the first when it goes into the ignition ie do not take the first key out of the ignition and hold it in your hand while you insert the second key.

Instead, take the first key out of the ignition, walk across the garage and put it on the bench, pick up the second key walk back to the bike and insert the second key.

Before you start, always make sure that you can start the bike with the key that you are going to re-program first.

The receiver is prone to interference from other signals. There is a garage that we have heard of that is known to have problems with bikes refusing to start after filling up. The problem is caused by a phone transmitter which is very close by. Riders have to push their bikes a short distance before the engine will fire up !!

Jonmapps account is excellent. I wrote up my own with some additional information here without referring to his - so it is the same stuff from a different source - mainly the Honda manual.

For reference, the fault codes generated after entering Diagnostic mode are listed as:

SSLS - Faulty ECM
SSLL - Faulty harness or receiver
LSSS - Identification code disagree - Jamming of signal (by other key ?)
LSSL - Secret code disagrees - Jamming of signal (by other key ?)
SLSL - Key is already registered
SSLL - Communication failure - code cannot be sent or received
SLSS - Key is already registered on the other system, Use a new key

S=Short, L=Long

Sorry I can't answer the question - only give information.

I don't understand the key is already registered code. I have four. One in use, one always in a secure jacket pocket, on with my pillion and one at home. I have re-programmed all of my keys a few times. Not for the fun of it, but on the two occasions that I lost a key - so I reprogrammed the others so that the lost key didn't work. Then on both occasions the missing key turned up. And of course when I bought the two spare key blanks.

Anyone else in the UK have a different set of info from a later UK manual
@Upt' North ? @ad.hom ? @Bikeric? @HairyHeffalump ? @Flexit ?


Ps - I was just investigating other Honda bikes to see if different codes exist. I didn't find any, but I did find this rather detailed explanation of the system.
 
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Thanks for the tag John...

Having done a little digging, online and in old dusty books about ECUs before ODBII came in... I can't see anything that would line up with an SLLS either. @Steven11663 - perhaps if you could video it? There's probably something simple being lost in the translation of the forum. I've even looking through my CBR, VL and Honda Civic books.

If the transponder wasn't a genuine Honda one, you'd get LSSL... and with my thinking cap on... ECU developers tend to make things that are closely related, a little "easter egg" in the design. Given SLLS is "mismatch pre-shared key", it's possible that LSSL is "timeout, no key detected." But then, anyone that has reprogrammed, and didn't use the full 4 keys, would have seen this (because the bike would timeout before the 4th key).

Incidentally...
There is a garage that we have heard of that is known to have problems with bikes refusing to start
The antenna for HISS is in the collar around the top of the ignition barrel. Wouldn't be too hard to give either a signal boost, or protection from interference. But I'm lazy, I'd just remember not to use that garage. :D
 
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The instructions on how to do this are in the Honda Workshop manual. My copy does not have a code for one short, two long, one short. It is a 2004 UK manual.

I didn't spot the advice as to where to get a transponder. I've only ever bought the official Honda key, had it cut and then programmed it myself.



I assume that you are aware that in order to program the second key, the first key has to be re-programmed first (having verified that it will actually start the engine). The first key is then removed and the second key put in and turned on for two seconds - after which it should blink four times repeatedly ??

ie - you do not have to start a complete new sequence for the second key by putting messing around with the 12v connection to the ignition pulse generator connector.

You must make sure that the second key to go into the ignition is far enough away from the first when it goes into the ignition ie do not take the first key out of the ignition and hold it in your hand while you insert the second key.

Instead, take the first key out of the ignition, walk across the garage and put it on the bench, pick up the second key walk back to the bike and insert the second key.

Before you start, always make sure that you can start the bike with the key that you are going to re-program first.

The receiver is prone to interference from other signals. There is a garage that we have heard of that is known to have problems with bikes refusing to start after filling up. The problem is caused by a phone transmitter which is very close by. Riders have to push their bikes a short distance before the engine will fire up !!

Jonmapps account is excellent. I wrote up my own with some additional information here without referring to his - so it is the same stuff from a different source - mainly the Honda manual.

For reference, the fault codes generated after entering Diagnostic mode are listed as:

SSLS - Faulty ECM
SSLL - Faulty harness or receiver
LSSS - Identification code disagree - Jamming of signal (by other key ?)
LSSL - Secret code disagrees - Jamming of signal (by other key ?)
SLSL - Key is already registered
SSLL - Communication failure - code cannot be sent or received
SLSS - Key is already registered on the other system, Use a new key

S=Short, L=Long

Sorry I can't answer the question - only give information.

I don't understand the key is already registered code. I have four. One in use, one always in a secure jacket pocket, on with my pillion and one at home. I have re-programmed all of my keys a few times. Not for the fun of it, but on the two occasions that I lost a key - so I reprogrammed the others so that the lost key didn't work. Then on both occasions the missing key turned up. And of course when I bought the two spare key blanks.

Anyone else in the UK have a different set of info from a later UK manual
@Upt' North ? @ad.hom ? @Bikeric? @HairyHeffalump ? @Flexit ?


Ps - I was just investigating other Honda bikes to see if different codes exist. I didn't find any, but I did find this rather detailed explanation of the system.
Sorry John, the only place that I would have recommended was Keys Galore in London, who I used for about 40 years for replacement keys. I believe that they have shut permanently now.
 
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I'm useless too......but you already knew that!
I have no knowledge of the HISS inner workings.
I did have HISS on the CBF but it just worked.
Could it be a faulty new key?
Upt'North.
 
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Sorry, I got keys and transponders from eBay sellers recommended by a YouTuber, not from on here. My mistake!

I have followed the instructions, using the original key transponder fitted into a new key to start the procedure. This key does start the bike. This is confirmed by the HISS, giving four short flashes after removing and reconnecting power to the ECU Pulse Generator input as described in the instructions. After removing the recognised key and turning on with the new key, the HISS light comes on for several seconds, then gives the SLLS flash code. I'll see if I can get a video of it tomorrow.

The keys are cut by the eBay seller based on the key code from the metal tag. The ID46 transponders are advertised as brand new.
 

jfheath

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Thanks for the update. There is nowt wrong with the HISS or the key that works - so the receiver, ECU and wiring is OK. So I'd be suspecting the 'new' transponder. Apparently (and I only just found this out from that link I posted - the HISS training manual) - once a transponder has been programmed with an ECU, it cannot be re-programmed with a different ECU. You can reprogram is for the same bike as many times as you want. So I wonder if the transponder you were provided with has already been programmed.

The only way you could test that is to have someone put their key in your ignition - but they wouldn't want to do that, because if it doesn't generate a fault, it will reprogram their key to your bike!! It would solve your problem, but leave them stranded. - Or get in touch with a friendly Honda dealer and ask if they can find out from Honda what that code means. Or they may know, of course.
 
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I'm useless too...
I disagree, you know how to operate a kettle... two sugars while you're there. ;)
I wonder if the transponder you were provided with has already been programmed.
That would be SLSS, as per your own post (#23), and is a fairly well thought out anti-theft mechanism (designed around the thought that someone might, one day in future, trick the system into programming mode - all you'd need to do is steal someone's spare key, by popping off the... *redacted location of spare key*).

have someone put their key in your ignition - but they wouldn't want to do that
Wouldn't be a problem using someone else's spare key, so that they could reprogram it back to their bike after. But still, it should, per design, come back SLSS, rather than Steven's SLLS.

Video of the code it's throwing should help clear this up, and if we're still puzzled, I'm on friendly terms with the parts chap at the local Honda dealership (why do the parts guys always love the history, and investigating things...?)
 
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Aha, you sir, have a bad transponder chip.

Given the video, I called my local Honda... "Hi, so, I picked up some new keys..." and described your problem to him as though it was mine. He called me back after about 30mins.

"Took some digging, but that code is telling you it failed to write to the transponder. Buy a new ID46 chip and swap it into the key, probably cheapest way, and you just need a sharp knife & glue."

Edit, to clarify how this code is determined. Initially, there's a handshake before a write is attempted (fail here, and get pretty much any code). Then the ECU writes to the transponder, followed by the transponder saying "OK" (fail here, and get the communication fault codes). Then the ECU asks the transponder to repeat what it was told (if the key says "what are you talking about, you haven't told me anything?" - this causes SLLS).

EDIT#2: Also just unearthed the following in the '99 CBR600F manual:
* Transponder writing error . - - .
- The ICM attempts to write the password and secret code to the transponder. The ICM then tries to validate the data in the transponder and finds an abnormality.
=> The transponder is faulty.
 
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Thank you ad.hom.

At least that narrows it down for me. I had my suspicion that the chip was the problem, but didn't want to immediately go back to the seller if it turned out to be something I had done wrong. I'll contact the seller and see what the options are now. Many thanks, and I'll let you know how I get on!
 

jfheath

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Ok - well done @ad.hom and @Steven11663 for sorting that out. The chip was my only thought - but its good to have that SLLS code confirmed by a Honda Tech.

Wouldn't be a problem using someone else's spare key
The documentation says that if it has already been programmed to an ECU, then it cannot be programmed to a different ECU . (link posted above, P15)
But as you said - there is a code for that - SLSS - which I had missed/or misunderstood the odd phrasing.

I assume that those other keys on the keyring do not have a transponder in them (of any variety ) ?
 
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Aha, you sir, have a bad transponder chip.

Given the video, I called my local Honda... "Hi, so, I picked up some new keys..." and described your problem to him as though it was mine. He called me back after about 30mins.

"Took some digging, but that code is telling you it failed to write to the transponder. Buy a new ID46 chip and swap it into the key, probably cheapest way, and you just need a sharp knife & glue."

Edit, to clarify how this code is determined. Initially, there's a handshake before a write is attempted (fail here, and get pretty much any code). Then the ECU writes to the transponder, followed by the transponder saying "OK" (fail here, and get the communication fault codes). Then the ECU asks the transponder to repeat what it was told (if the key says "what are you talking about, you haven't told me anything?" - this causes SLLS).

EDIT#2: Also just unearthed the following in the '99 CBR600F manual:
Thanks for this and all the previous contributions. I have had exactly the same problem. 04 Pan European. I put a genuine Honda chip in key number 2 and it re-programmes no problem; then change the transponder for a brand new blank PCF7936. ID46. T14 Carbon Transponder (from eBay) and after 10 secs of red light - SLLS. Thanks for your help; clearly I need to buy a genuine Honda key; where's my heavy-duty credit card?!!
 
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Hi ad.hom,
I just bought a new key off ebay from Chema Ltd (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224096324314). They can cut replacement keys from a picture or key number. The key was cut, posted (first class) and delivered within 2 days for the princely sum of £30. I programmed it along with my other 2 keys and all 3 work a treat. Chema are recommended; not sure how they compare price-wise to Honda, but I'd bet they were cheaper? Good luck, John
 
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