Article [11] ST1100 - Fuel Pump Replacement

draboo

SpongeBob Ogler
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Sep 21, 2009
Messages
124
Location
Mt Vernon,WA
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'10 Spyder RT-S
It was a breeze. I used an Airtex E8371 pump and a Carter STS-8 screen. Cost: around 70 bucks for both.

There is a vent hose that connects to the stock pump. You will see it as soon as you lift the pump up. There is no clamp, just gently pry it off with a screw driver. (no pic of that..forgot the camera for the first 10 minutes)

Photo#1 is the old pump. I made sure to leave plenty of wire to reconnect to if needed. The rubber sleeve needs to be reused. I found that rolling it off the old pump worked better than trying to stretch it off, less chance of tearing.

#2 is the stock rubber mount and the one that comes with the new pump. You will need both.

#3 is the pump with both rubbers installed. If you notice at the bottom edge the rubber has a rather large "notch" This goes on the bottom where the pump sits on the bracket. I reused the stock gas line because it was of a different type of matieral as the new stuff I bought, and I m guestimating the old line is meant for being immersed in fuel. I originally had the inlet and outlet of the pump towards the bottom to utilize more of the fuel, but I turned it so the connections were on top so I could use the old gas line.

#4 is with the pump installed. Make sure to get the positive wire(blue) to the + side of the pump. The pump came with crimp on connections,nuts and washers, which I used. I am allergic to the act of soldering.

#5 Completed ready to install. The nuts are 1/4" Like I mentioned before, I left the wires long, in case I want to reinstall the old pump.

I made sure it ran before bolting back in. After installation was complete, I jumped the pump again and let it squirt into a container. It seemed to have more pressure or volume than the old pump. I started it and let it idle, under the assumption that a leak will occur while idling,since it is using the least fuel. I didnt smell or see any leaks, but I was desensitized from the smell, so I will take it for a ride tonite and report back.

Heres a link to the instructions I folllowed, it explains the vent hose I forgot to get a pic of.
http://www.berrysweb.com/1500_fuel_pump.htm

All in all, a simple..hopefully permanent fix for the "hot fuel pump seizure syndrome". :D
 

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draboo

draboo

SpongeBob Ogler
Joined
Sep 21, 2009
Messages
124
Location
Mt Vernon,WA
Bike
'10 Spyder RT-S
Re: ST1100 fuel pump replacement

Cool, I have had the heat issue with my 97. I have picked up a Facet external pump that I had planned to use. I was going to just draw through the OEM pump. I sure like the looks of this tho. I may have to reconsider my options. Good post. :bow1:
I seriously thought about doing the same thing as you with an inline pump, but didn't feel like finding a place to mount it and then have to mess with the wiring.

What is cool about an external pump is you can find one with the correct flow rate (low) and psi.
 

Bigmak96

R.I.P. - 2021/08/07
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Re: ST1100 fuel pump replacement

Yep, the Facet I got is 2-3lbs I think. I will prolly go ahead and use it since I have it. I thought I would mount it where the vac. shutt off was. Good to know there is an in tank option too.
 
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draboo

draboo

SpongeBob Ogler
Joined
Sep 21, 2009
Messages
124
Location
Mt Vernon,WA
Bike
'10 Spyder RT-S
Re: ST1100 fuel pump replacement

Yep, the Facet I got is 2-3lbs I think. I will prolly go ahead and use it since I have it. I thought I would mount it where the vac. shut off was. Good to know there is an in tank option too.
I don't recall how the wired are connected underneath the top of the unit that bolts to the gas tank. I was thinking maybe you could take the old pump out by disconnecting the wires on the underside and just run the length of hose with a strainer on the end of it. That way you wouldn't have the resistance of the impeller,etc that the fuel would have to squeeze past to get up to the external pump.

I noticed that the ground wire is easily disconnected,but I cannot see how the blue(hot) wire connects.
 
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draboo

draboo

SpongeBob Ogler
Joined
Sep 21, 2009
Messages
124
Location
Mt Vernon,WA
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'10 Spyder RT-S
Re: ST1100 fuel pump replacement

OH.. and thanks for the kind words, you guys.:eek::
 
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draboo

draboo

SpongeBob Ogler
Joined
Sep 21, 2009
Messages
124
Location
Mt Vernon,WA
Bike
'10 Spyder RT-S
It was a breeze. I used an Airtex E8371 pump and a Carter STS-8 screen. Cost: around 70 bucks for both.

There is a vent hose that connects to the stock pump. You will see it as soon as you lift the pump up. There is no clamp, just gently pry it off with a screw driver. (no pic of that..forgot the camera for the first 10 minutes)

Photo#1 is the old pump. I made sure to leave plenty of wire to reconnect to if needed. The rubber sleeve needs to be reused. I found that rolling it off the old pump worked better than trying to stretch it off, less chance of tearing.

#2 is the stock rubber mount and the one that comes with the new pump. You will need both.

#3 is the pump with both rubbers installed. If you notice at the bottom edge the rubber has a rather large "notch" This goes on the bottom where the pump sits on the bracket. I reused the stock gas line because it was of a different type of matieral as the new stuff I bought, and I m guestimating the old line is meant for being immersed in fuel. I originally had the inlet and outlet of the pump towards the bottom to utilize more of the fuel, but I turned it so the connections were on top so I could use the old gas line.

#4 is with the pump installed. Make sure to get the positive wire(blue) to the + side of the pump. The pump came with crimp on connections,nuts and washers, which I used. I am allergic to the act of soldering.

#5 Completed ready to install. The nuts are 1/4" Like I mentioned before, I left the wires long, in case I want to reinstall the old pump.

I made sure it ran before bolting back in. After installation was complete, I jumped the pump again and let it squirt into a container. It seemed to have more pressure or volume than the old pump. I started it and let it idle, under the assumption that a leak will occur while idling,since it is using the least fuel. I didnt smell or see any leaks, but I was desensitized from the smell, so I will take it for a ride tonite and report back.

Heres a link to the instructions I folllowed, it explains the vent hose I forgot to get a pic of.
http://www.berrysweb.com/1500_fuel_pump.htm

All in all, a simple..hopefully permanent fix for the "hot fuel pump seizure syndrome". :D
 

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Joined
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White Bear Lake, MN
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4087
Problem encountered and hopefully solved.

I replaced my stock fuel pump with the Airtek. A quick test before installation showed a good solid stream of fuel. However, a recent ride was aborted when I had fuel starvation problems. I'll spare you all the frogging about with jumpers and electric meters, etc and get right to the answer. With the two rubber bushings around the pump (see pics above), securing the strap to hold the pump in place took some doing. I had to use pliers to get the strap ends close enough to set the securing screw, then quite a bit of torque to fasten the strap completely. This appears to have caused enough distortion in the pump case to freeze up the pump. Backing the screw off remedied the problem.
 
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draboo

draboo

SpongeBob Ogler
Joined
Sep 21, 2009
Messages
124
Location
Mt Vernon,WA
Bike
'10 Spyder RT-S
Re: Problem encountered and hopefully solved.

I replaced my stock fuel pump with the Airtek. A quick test before installation showed a good solid stream of fuel. However, a recent ride was aborted when I had fuel starvation problems. I'll spare you all the frogging about with jumpers and electric meters, etc and get right to the answer. With the two rubber bushings around the pump (see pics above), securing the strap to hold the pump in place took some doing. I had to use pliers to get the strap ends close enough to set the securing screw, then quite a bit of torque to fasten the strap completely. This appears to have caused enough distortion in the pump case to freeze up the pump. Backing the screw off remedied the problem.
Thanks for the update,Kevin!:) So far, mine has been preforming flawlessly and gas mileage has been great.
 

ST_SHP

Parting a wrecked '91
Joined
Dec 27, 2010
Messages
181
Location
North Florida
Bike
1991 ST1100-UJM
Re: ST1100-Fuel Pump Replacement

I was referred here by another member, great thread. Here's some more info if you shop at a part-number challenged place like Advance Auto Parts*: :)

The E8371 pump has applications for:
HONDA ACCORD DX (1986 - 1989)
HONDA ACCORD LX (1986 - 1989)
HONDA PRELUDE 2.0 S (1988 - 1990)

The STS8 strainer has applications for a lot of GM, Honda, and Toyota vehicles, so I will include only those that use the same pump above:
HONDA ACCORD DX (1986 - 1989)
HONDA ACCORD LX (1986 - 1989)
HONDA PRELUDE 2.0 S (1988 - 1989)

You can use any of these as applications if asked.

Advance does not carry Carter brand parts, but they do carry Bosch and Airtex, so I crossed over the STS8. The Airtex part # is FS9, Bosch is 68003.

The total shipped was $64.37 at Advance (for the Bosch filter & Airtex pump with a 15% discount on their site) or $64.74 shipped at Rock Auto (Carter filter & Airtex pump with a 5% discount code you can Google). The Rock Auto total dropped to $55.66 by using the Airtex filter (lower cost & less shipping from the same warehouse vs. 2 warehouses).


* I have a number of vehicles that are hybrids, i.e. different motors than originally equipped so as to improve them ;). Shopping at Advance (in store or online) is a pain, since they always ask "What is this for?" I usually shop at Rock Auto, which is where I found most of the above data.
 

ST_SHP

Parting a wrecked '91
Joined
Dec 27, 2010
Messages
181
Location
North Florida
Bike
1991 ST1100-UJM
Re: ST1100-Fuel Pump Replacement

I now have the pump & strainer. It seems like an inefficient means to pick up fuel- all the in-tank pumps I've ever replaced pickup from a low point. It looks like either a 90 degree elbow to place the strainer parallel to the floor of the tank or an inline pump as observed above with a straight hose and parallel strainer. I'm going to look at the setup and see if an elbow is feasible, or possibly to relocate the pump to vertical so the strainer can be parallel.
 

ST_SHP

Parting a wrecked '91
Joined
Dec 27, 2010
Messages
181
Location
North Florida
Bike
1991 ST1100-UJM
Re: ST1100-Fuel Pump Replacement

Next update- after I compared the OEM pickup with the Airtex one, the difference is minimal and not worth the effort of relocating it.

The next issue I discovered was the 5/16 fuel hose in the tank. I did some research, and the line needs to be SAE spec J30R10. Most rubber fuel hose the parts store sells is 30R6 or R7, which is not rated for immersion in fuel. There are some alternatives like Viton or Tygon, but they end up costing as much as the 30R10 when you get the correct size and O.D. The 30R10 hose can be found as Gates # 27093 or NAPA H209. It runs $17/foot for the Gates (Amazon) to $29/foot at NAPA online.
 
Joined
May 29, 2007
Messages
149
Location
idaho
STOC #
3247
Re: ST1100-Fuel Pump Replacement

I was referred here by another member, great thread. Here's some more info if you shop at a part-number challenged place like Advance Auto Parts*: :)

The E8371 pump has applications for:
HONDA ACCORD DX (1986 - 1989)
HONDA ACCORD LX (1986 - 1989)
HONDA PRELUDE 2.0 S (1988 - 1990)

The STS8 strainer has applications for a lot of GM, Honda, and Toyota vehicles, so I will include only those that use the same pump above:
HONDA ACCORD DX (1986 - 1989)
HONDA ACCORD LX (1986 - 1989)
HONDA PRELUDE 2.0 S (1988 - 1989)

You can use any of these as applications if asked.

Advance does not carry Carter brand parts, but they do carry Bosch and Airtex, so I crossed over the STS8. The Airtex part # is FS9, Bosch is 68003.

The total shipped was $64.37 at Advance (for the Bosch filter & Airtex pump with a 15% discount on their site) or $64.74 shipped at Rock Auto (Carter filter & Airtex pump with a 5% discount code you can Google). The Rock Auto total dropped to $55.66 by using the Airtex filter (lower cost & less shipping from the same warehouse vs. 2 warehouses).


* I have a number of vehicles that are hybrids, i.e. different motors than originally equipped so as to improve them ;). Shopping at Advance (in store or online) is a pain, since they always ask "What is this for?" I usually shop at Rock Auto, which is where I found most of the above data.
So....doesn't Airtex make a screen of their own for the E8371 pump? Or will it not work on the ST? Thanks for the cross-ref.
BTW...how's it working out for you? I really need to change my pump and I'm leaning this way.
Thanks.
 

ST_SHP

Parting a wrecked '91
Joined
Dec 27, 2010
Messages
181
Location
North Florida
Bike
1991 ST1100-UJM
The fuel pump seems to be working OK, but I'm dealing with cooling system issues as I reassemble the bike. I don't have any lengthy run time with it as yet.
 
Joined
May 29, 2007
Messages
149
Location
idaho
STOC #
3247
Update:

It's in and works fine, but I haven't tested it in the real world, just the garage. Anyhow..here are some pics that show how my instal varied from others.

First, someone farkled two vent hoses into the tank. Venting appears to be a non-issue on this bike. You can see them inside the tank and the hoses vent between the tank and rear fender under the seat. Interesting. If anyone knows about this farkle or has input/background, I'd like to know more about it. I'm leaving it for now.

Next..I cut a small chunk out of the band that comes with the Airtex pump to make it a little less snug inside the Honda clamp so as not to fight with the small screw.

Finally, in the finished pic you can kind of see that I added two washers between the contact points of the Honda clamp to help make up the gap and prevent over-tightening it. Still, a very easy install and could be done in a parking lot if you had to in case you're thinking of buying one for a travel kit. Nothing to it.

If I have issues with it, I'll post. Otherwise I need to go ride.

Thanks all.
 

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Messages
149
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Issue:

Be sure to change the hose when you have it apart. My test ride was perfect but it wouldn't start the next day. Inspection revealed the hose had broken at the bend where it exits the pump and heads north. New hose. New hose. New hose. Next?
 
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Messages
149
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idaho
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Final update. I burned out two airtex pumps and installed the facet as a last resort. I realized after missing out on all those miles I should've just bought the oem. So I did. 360 bucks from service honda. Sure would like to have the time back so I could go ride, but....live and learn. Gotta try to wrench and all that so it wasn't a total loss, but just want others to know if it helps them to make a decision on their own project if it arises.
back to work.
 
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