Article Manual Tire Dismount and Mount

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Thought I'd write this up as I needed to do the work anyway. Could be an article(?).

First order of business: forget about NOT scratching yur rims. Nobody but you will ever look that closely. This same job can be done with rim protectors, but (in my case) that's just more to carry.

Necessary tools, three tar arns and some 2x4. I made this box several years ago, works fine. Add a bottle of soap. Work surface is the garage floor. I carry the arns and some soap but not the box on trips.


One of my valve stems always has a metal cap with valve tool built in


Soap up the old tar, makes it much easier to break the bead.


Insert the curved end of the arns under the rim, two outside ones pointed up, center one pointed down and pushed behind the edge of the tar bead. Push down on the two outside, pull up on the center arn to distribute the soap.


On this old BT-020-R I had to stack the two big arns to get enuff travel to get the bead into the center. Wasn't necessary when I did the front.


Here's the old tar off the rim.


Here's the new Avon AV56 ready to install. Note the reversed arrow, on purpose because this side gets soaped up first, then reversed 180? and pushed onto the rim.


One additional tool: the C-Clamp holds the edge down into the groove and keeps it from backing out as the rest of the bead is forced over the rim.


Here's the last of the bead just ready to pop over the rim.


Side note: some valve stems have a black band instead of red. Use only red banded stems on yur tars.


I always set the beads before putting the stem in, pressure up to 50 lbs then release. Install the stem and set to 42#. Check again the next day. I've used my 12V compressor to set a bead but ya gotta be lucky to do that. Assume you'll want to be close to a real compressor.

Continued on page 2
 

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George
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Page 2

Bought this tar back in January, it's been setting on the shelf ever since. Last replacement was installed at Tim's shop in Lawrenceville, GA back in May.
IMG_1010.jpg

My balancing rig is low tech but works okay for me. I use the sticky weights in 1/2 oz increments, find the heavy spot and install weights as needed.
IMG_1011.jpg

So, manual tar mounting is do-able in the field. We did a front tar using this method at CampSTOC 2009, and did a rear tar (just to patch the inside, not mount a new one) at NatSTOC 2010.

With the tools shown and a spare tar on hand, I've changed a bunch of tars over the last few years. I have the Harbor Freight changer at home but often find I'm not home when a tar is needed.

Useful skill most of us will never need but just knowing you can do it should add some confidence when yur out 'n about.

Meant to add a pic of my tar shelf. The 020 I just removed has at least a thou left in it (currently at 13, 239 miles.) I always have a new and/or used tar in case anyone traveling thru should need it.
 
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George,
where are the pix (and page 2)? Looks like something went wrong with the file attachments?
 

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George,
where are the pix (and page 2)? Looks like something went wrong with the file attachments?
I fixed some of those pics and I'm sure he's working on page 2 now...
 
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George
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I think it's fixed now, pics were missing.

D'Oh!! :doh1: Meant to add, I learned the bead breaker trick from Will at Willville Campground in Meadows Of Dan, VA a couple years ago. We installed a used tar on Landon's 1300 at CampSTOC 08(?). Good learning exeperience. Will runs a nice shop.
 

Bigmak96

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If I could add something,,,,,,,,,,,,when I did my rear in the campground at Moab I put a cheep nylon strap around the tar and sinched it up as tight as I could thinking it would force the beads out and keep them in contact with the wheel. I was using my 12 volt Slime pump so I wanted every advantage. I can't say it did the trick,it may have been dumb luck but the K591 beads set first try. YEMV
GOOD post George
 

Tom Mac 04a

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<Side note: some valve stems have a black band instead of red. Use only red banded stems on yur tars.>


ok ...why???
 
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George
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<Side note: some valve stems have a black band instead of red. Use only red banded stems on yur tars.>


ok ...why???
I've been told (but never verified) the bands are heat sensitive, red is "hotter" than black. Checking that now.

Okay, here's one reference I found via Google:

Valve Cores ? the valve core allows the air pressure within the tire and wheel assembly to be adjusted. It must be in good working order with no debris within it. Debris would not allow the core to seal properly. There are two types of cores used for passenger valve stems; with the main difference being the temperature rating. A standard valve core usually has a black seal with a temperature range of between -65?F (-54?C) and 225?F (107?C). The high temperature core usually has a red seal and has a temperature range of -65?F (-54?C) and 250?F (121?C) and is designed more for use in truck applications.

So, given the choice, I go with the higher temp core. I was given this info at a Goodyear tire shop in Jasper, Indiana several years ago. Tech was installing a new rear tar for me on ReSTored, had a black banded valve core, he installed a red one and told me why.
 

Tom Mac 04a

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Just goes to show , ya can learn something every day! Tks for the info.

As a side note... wonder what the temp of a mc tire is with normal pressure at hywy speeds??
( if it gets to 225f, your running on it flat :O )
 
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Thanks George, nice to understand the use of the opposing curves on the irons, makes perfect sense, but would never would have thought of it on my own :D.
 

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Good post, George! I've used Murphy's Oil Soap mixed with a little water (it's more slippery when wet) but haven't tried the antifreeze. I'm not sure I'd want glycol on my m/c tires, or is that just me?
 

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Good post, George! I've used Murphy's Oil Soap mixed with a little water (it's more slippery when wet) but haven't tried the antifreeze. I'm not sure I'd want glycol on my m/c tires, or is that just me?
I don't like the idea of soap because when it gets wet it gets slippery. The recipe below does not.
It is what have been using for years and find it works great:

> (David Ryder's Recipe)
>
> 70% Murphy's oil soap
> 15% antifreeze (I use dexcool)
> 15% water

I use whatever antifreeze is in the garage.
 
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George
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I've always just used dish soap 'n water, never a problem with a slip once it's on the rim. Have never tried that other recipe. I know anti-freeze, tho, is tuff on paint. What's it gonna do to the rubber in the tars? :22yikes:
 

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Very helpful article. What dimensions did you use for the 2x4 box that work best for you? Thanks!

Greg Kane
 
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