Article [13] ST1300 - Powerlet Install with pics

crazykz

R.I.P. - 2012/06/16
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Hi All,

I've seen some powerlet installs and a couple things that come up in them are what is the measurements to drill the hole and does it clear the coil. Anyone that has done it knows that it does clear the coil but it isn't obvious from any of the pictures I've seen.

So in order to clear some of that up I'll publish these pictures of my install with full measurements and pictures from an angle that shows the coil clearance. I guess this would be a good article but so would about a million other things I'm doing this winter.

I've also included where I ran the wiring. It's test lead style wire that is VERY flexible even in freezing temperatures and withstands heat up to about 400 degress. I had some and decided to use it. Since I had to put in a fuse I used a posi-lock instead of soldering or using a butt splice to add it. Damn I love those things. If I want to remove it later I can. That's the great thing about them. I also got some right angled connectors for connecting to the powerlet but you can see from the clearance photo that you can use straight terminals also.

If you're looking for a good step bit set for cheap check here:
http://www.toolprice.com/product/7384A

Here's a tip for running wiring through PVC jacketing or when you need to pull wire through somewhere but space is so tight that using a looped piece of wire to pull it through isn't possible. Now you would have to get something through there like a stiff piece of wire or something but once you do get some dental floss. Tie a very small loop in the dental floss and then pull the floss back through it to make sort of a noose. Now slip the noose over the wire you ran through and pull it tight. In most cases if you keep tension on the floss it will grip tight enough to pull out your guide wire and fish the floss through. The tighter you pull on the floss the tighter it grips. Once you pull out the guide wire you'll have the floss run through there. Now get rid of the guide wire and loop the floss noose around the wires you want to run through there and feed them back through by pulling on the floss and keeping tension on it the whole time so it doesn't slip off. I've found this technique to be very effetive after struggling with things like this for years. This technique works better for me than taping wires to what ever I'm pulling through because about 4 times out of 10 the tape gives because it's too tight to pull back through.

Hope these help someone in the future.

Curt

Farkle On
 

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John Anthony

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Curt, thanks for you usual fine work and documentation. Makes it easier for the rest of us to follow in your footsteps.

John
 

Jefro

I ride to Sturgis
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Man, talk about timely!
I just received my powerlet components for just this job. I already added the powerlet dual rear outlets for my Gerbing jacket and gloves.
Thank you sir.
Jefro.
 

Bones

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crazykz said:
...dental floss...
My dentist gives out little demo packs of dental floss, about the diameter of a quarter and twice the thickness. Contains something like 30 feet of floss. I keep one in the tool kit in my bike. You'll find lots of uses for dental floss on a bike, at camp, etc.

(A message from my dental hygienist: "Use floss for its intended purpose to keep teeth looking like this: :D ")
 
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Curt

Thanks for the pics and info.

Two questions to clear things up in my own mind, I take it that you are taking the feed and earth directly from the battery, with the fuse on the live side (of course)

Secondly what fuse rating do you suggest.

Many thanks.

Mick
 
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crazykz

crazykz

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tricky_micky said:
Curt

Thanks for the pics and info.

Two questions to clear things up in my own mind, I take it that you are taking the feed and earth directly from the battery, with the fuse on the live side (of course)

Secondly what fuse rating do you suggest.

Many thanks.

Mick
Yes it goes straight to the battery for juice and earth. That way I can run whatever I need to from it. It's mostly for powering the tank bag but if I want to hook up my heated clothing there I could do that too.

The fuse amperage just depends on what you want to run on the powerlet. If you want to be able to run a compressor from it then 10 amps is good. For heated clothing 10 or 15 amps. Same for a battery tender hookup. If you're just going to use it for a few electronics then you could drop it to less than 5. Usually 1 or 2 amps for MP3/CD/Radio, etc.

Curt
 
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crazykz said:
Yes it goes straight to the battery for juice and earth. That way I can run whatever I need to from it. It's mostly for powering the tank bag but if I want to hook up my heated clothing there I could do that too.

The fuse amperage just depends on what you want to run on the powerlet. If you want to be able to run a compressor from it then 10 amps is good. For heated clothing 10 or 15 amps. Same for a battery tender hookup. If you're just going to use it for a few electronics then you could drop it to less than 5. Usually 1 or 2 amps for MP3/CD/Radio, etc.

Curt
Curt

Many thanks for the info, much appreciated. That will be my next 'Farkle' to fit once I finished testing the Ham set up.

Mick
 
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crazykz

crazykz

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tricky_micky said:
Curt

Many thanks for the info, much appreciated. That will be my next 'Farkle' to fit once I finished testing the Ham set up.

Mick
Good luck with that. HAM is in my future but it's pretty far off at this point I think. Working on the CB setup for now.

Curt
 
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crazykz

crazykz

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adamk said:
I added a HAM radio to my rig. Picture here:

http://koczarski.com/ST1300/Antenna/Antenna.htm
Clever idea on nylon bolts to isolate the noise. I usually browse your site every few months to see what you've been up to.

I'm trying to find a very good CB cable to hook up to the rig. I should just use the one I have and see how it goes.

Curt
 
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adamk said:
I added a HAM radio to my rig. Picture here:

http://koczarski.com/ST1300/Antenna/Antenna.htm
Thanks for the info. Looking at your pics, my set up is mounted very similar except the rig is on the right hand side of the bars, and I use a Watson 7900 dual band antenna.

Since getting it all set up, I have not been able to do much testing due to work and weather conditions, I need to do a little 'Roaming' to find some decent links that I can access to get me up onto Echolink as the 2 and 70 mtr bands are dead so to speak.

The other good thing about the bar mounting is that I just change the rig to a PMR set, and I am ready for the business of advanced motorcycle training. Interesting to exchange information.

Stay safe and take care.

Mick
 

EASt

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crazykz said:
I've also included where I ran the wiring. It's test lead style wire that is VERY flexible even in freezing temperatures and withstands heat up to about 400 degress. I had some and decided to use it. Since I had to put in a fuse I used a posi-lock instead of soldering or using a butt splice to add it. Damn I love those things. If I want to remove it later I can. That's the great thing about them. I also got some right angled connectors for connecting to the powerlet but you can see from the clearance photo that you can use straight terminals also.
I've actually got to re-wire my powerlett, and I'm glad that I found your write up. Any hints on where to get the "test lead style" wire as well as the right-angled connectors? Radio Shack? :shrug2:
 
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crazykz

crazykz

R.I.P. - 2012/06/16
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EASt said:
I've actually got to re-wire my powerlett, and I'm glad that I found your write up. Any hints on where to get the "test lead style" wire as well as the right-angled connectors? Radio Shack? :shrug2:
The right angled crimp connectors you can get at the big hardware stores. They are in with the rest but you have to look for them. As far as the test-lead style wire you don't really need it. I have to drive almost 50 miles to a local place that sells it. You won't find it at RatShack. I don't know what gauge you want but RatShack is selling black/red bound zip code now in their speaker wire section. It's 18 guage which would be good for most applications. If you want something heavier than just get some red and black in whatever gauge you want but I would go bigger than 14 gauge or you'll have issues with the crimp connectors.

Let me know if you have more questions on it.

Curt
 
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Same for left or right?

crazykz said:
Hi All,

I've seen some powerlet installs and a couple things that come up in them are what is the measurements to drill the hole and does it clear the coil. Anyone that has done it knows that it does clear the coil but it isn't obvious from any of the pictures I've seen.

So in order to clear some of that up I'll publish these pictures of my install with full measurements and pictures from an angle that shows the coil clearance. I guess this would be a good article but so would about a million other things I'm doing this winter.

I've also included where I ran the wiring. It's test lead style wire that is VERY flexible even in freezing temperatures and withstands heat up to about 400 degress. I had some and decided to use it. Since I had to put in a fuse I used a posi-lock instead of soldering or using a butt splice to add it. Damn I love those things. If I want to remove it later I can. That's the great thing about them. I also got some right angled connectors for connecting to the powerlet but you can see from the clearance photo that you can use straight terminals also.

If you're looking for a good step bit set for cheap check here:
http://www.toolprice.com/product/7384A

Here's a tip for running wiring through PVC jacketing or when you need to pull wire through somewhere but space is so tight that using a looped piece of wire to pull it through isn't possible. Now you would have to get something through there like a stiff piece of wire or something but once you do get some dental floss. Tie a very small loop in the dental floss and then pull the floss back through it to make sort of a noose. Now slip the noose over the wire you ran through and pull it tight. In most cases if you keep tension on the floss it will grip tight enough to pull out your guide wire and fish the floss through. The tighter you pull on the floss the tighter it grips. Once you pull out the guide wire you'll have the floss run through there. Now get rid of the guide wire and loop the floss noose around the wires you want to run through there and feed them back through by pulling on the floss and keeping tension on it the whole time so it doesn't slip off. I've found this technique to be very effetive after struggling with things like this for years. This technique works better for me than taping wires to what ever I'm pulling through because about 4 times out of 10 the tape gives because it's too tight to pull back through.

Hope these help someone in the future.

Curt

Farkle On
Curt - would the measurements be the same (for the hole) on the left side? Standing by with drill and step bit .........................
Thanks,
Joe
 
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crazykz

crazykz

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Rolling Thunder said:
Curt - would the measurements be the same (for the hole) on the left side? Standing by with drill and step bit .........................
Thanks,
Joe
Sorry I didn't see this Joe but yes if you mirror image the pic.

Curt
 

Medicine Bear

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Didn't know where to add this but here seems to be a good place.

Northern Tool and Equipment has a 3 piece titanium step drill set (part # 335326) for $19.99 in the following sizes:

3/16" to 1/2"
1/2" to 3/4"
1/8" to 1/2"

The sale is good through April 29, 2006. Their website is:

www.northerntool.com and still shows the list price of $24.99.

Fred :03biker:
 

Jefro

I ride to Sturgis
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Location
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I put my dash Powerlet on the right side below the pocket like everyone else, but wired it to my second Powerlet which I put inside the right pocket. I mounted the inside outlet high up where it is easy to reach, instead of down toward the bottom where it is harder to use.
I was concerned the inside outlet would interfere with my Stebel horn, but it was no problem at all.
I wired the dash outlet to the pocket outlet, then to an automotive quick connector with about 10 inches of 12 gage wire, then back to my AP-1 fuse box in the rear area below the seat.
I added the quick disconnect to make removing the side body panels easier. You can see the white two wire connector above and to the left of the radiator in my picture.
Jefro.
 

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