Article [13] ST1300 - Rostra Cruise Control Installation

T_C

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Guys...I bought a signal divider made by Rostra. 250-4379 VSS Signal Divider Interface divide by 4. Works great, zero problems, made to work with the Rostra CC. Best thing is you don't have to mess with it! I bought it at The Cruise Control Store http://www.thecruisecontrolstore.com/250-4379-vss-signal-divider-interface/

Gary
Gary, ever hold 5100 rpm (or more) for about 20 seconds after you installed the pulse divider? All the riders we know using it (myself included) trip the ECU to go into default mode when we do.
 
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Tom...Nope but I have tripped the FI error warning light when I've exceeded 8500. Just engage the clutch, turn off the bike off, turn the bike back on and restart the bike via re-engaging the clutch. :D
What's that about?

Gary
 
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Well i have completed the install of the Rostra CC and must say it was quite intimidating, but in the end not too hard, just time consuming. I soldered all the connections and followed the original instructions on this post. Thanks for the great instructions and all who posted as it seems the install will work, at least it does on the center stand so far. Unfortunately winter is here and I cant try it out so until then I can only hope the settings are right and will work for my ST.
 
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I have finally completed the install and I am testing the CC on the center stand, but I dont think it is working as it should. When I push the S/C button it appears nothing happens and it does not engage the CC, the engage light stays off, and the cable does not move. I get it to engage by pushing the R/A button, at which time the cable slack takes up and the engage light comes on. I wondered if I had the wires off the control crossed but no, brown is to red/brown on the 4 pin connector as in all the diagrams on here and appears to be correct. The red/brown wire is into the module and is labelled brake + but ?. I tested the switch and it works as it should normally open. Any thoughts? Not the GL switch, but rostra with engage light.
 
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I have finally completed the install and I am testing the CC on the center stand, but I dont think it is working as it should. When I push the S/C button it appears nothing happens and it does not engage the CC, the engage light stays off, and the cable does not move. I get it to engage by pushing the R/A button, at which time the cable slack takes up and the engage light comes on. I wondered if I had the wires off the control crossed but no, brown is to red/brown on the 4 pin connector as in all the diagrams on here and appears to be correct. The red/brown wire is into the module and is labelled brake + but ?. I tested the switch and it works as it should normally open. Any thoughts? Not the GL switch, but rostra with engage light.
Issue is fixed, for future reference i will explain, or try to as it still does not make 100% sense. Initially on the install the dip switch settings on #12 was set for a normally closed control switch. I found i was wrong with that and was using a NO switch so I changed #12. There was no effect. :confused: The other 2 issues was a bad ground on the main unit, or the -brake not seeing ground. I confirmed those 2 were not a problem. After all 3 items were corrected and switch 12 was set, the unit still did not function properly, no S/A function. :confused: Solution...I read on another forum after an exhaustive search and badgering everyone I knew and didn't know, that whenever a dip switch is changed on the unit, the power has to be totally disconnected from the unit and entire bike, aka disconnect one of the battery terminals. I still don't understand fully why just turning off the key would not have the same effect as all the power is keyed, but magically it worked! I am far from an electrical guru but normally do well with this type wiring and issue. Feel free to chime in if any of this makes sense in the electrical world, as it doesn't to me. I had called the Rostra tech support and discussed the issue, and to totally cut the power was not mentioned. I am not even sure if he knew this. Oh well I am so happy it works...now to wait for all the snow and ice to go away.
 
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Well it was above freezing here today so tonight i find some relatively clear paved road after slowly riding a 1/2 mile from home on the ice, and tried out the new Rostra CC. I am so happy to report that the bike and cruise worked as good as I thought it should, with the only thing being a slight surge while slower than 50 mph (80 kph). I am very happy with the results. Thanks to all that contributed to this thread and of course to the thread starter and mastermind. Any further thoughts on the surge would be appreciated, like change the jumper settings, cable slack etc, although I need more testing in the spring to get the full feel for the install. Cheers!
 

T_C

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Best solution for the below 50 surge is the 2:1 lever an Aussie friend developed. Cut the movement of the cable in half. The CC never needs to pull our throttle full open anyway, a max of half is plenty of oomph to get the big over the hill.
 
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Best solution for the below 50 surge is the 2:1 lever an Aussie friend developed. Cut the movement of the cable in half. The CC never needs to pull our throttle full open anyway, a max of half is plenty of oomph to get the big over the hill.
I would love to see this or get some instruction to make and install the divider. I have been trying to search for something like that.
 

T_C

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A link would be nice buddy...LOL
I would love to see this or get some instruction to make and install the divider. I have been trying to search for something like that.
Sorry... lost the original picture I saw. But here is acrude drawing that should give you the idea.
Single ended lever, factory ended cruise cable attached to one end, hinge point at the other. Part way up the lever you attach a new cable that feeds from the lever to the arm you mounted on the throttle body.
Capiche?


 
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I am in the middle of installing the rostra on my Connie, on the Concours guys are extending the length of the throttle arm to cure the surging. I can post a picture this evening of mine when I'm at a computer.
 
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Sorry... lost the original picture I saw. But here is acrude drawing that should give you the idea.
Single ended lever, factory ended cruise cable attached to one end, hinge point at the other. Part way up the lever you attach a new cable that feeds from the lever to the arm you mounted on the throttle body.
Capiche?


Is this the photo? Looks like this would work to tame the surge.
CC1.jpgIMG_4930.jpg
 

The Dan

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Quick question, when using the police switch do you set the cruise jumper 12 to normaly open switch or normaly closed? I can't find an answer anywhere to that question.
 
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I am not sure but if you test the switch with an oHms meter you can see if it is open or closed and set it accordingly. If no connection until the button is pressed, it NO. If connection without being pushed the NC. From what I read in the settings the GL switch is NC while my rostra switch was NO. I cant tell you on the police switch for sure without testing it. Also after you change the dip switches you have to disconnect power to reset, or it seems it will not take on the new setting.
 

The Dan

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I am not sure but if you test the switch with an oHms meter you can see if it is open or closed and set it accordingly.
Thanks but the switch runs a relay pack so that answer would only tell me what the switch is doing to the relay. I know how to test a switch.....what i dont understand is if the relay is running in open or closed switch mode. Looking for an answer from someone who knows for a fact how they set it up.....
 
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T_C

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Looks like you can set-up to test and flip if needed Dan.

From the manual:
A. LED Light is staying on during self diagnostic testing procedure
Answer: If LED stays on during test, (1) you have a poor ground on black wire main
ground of unit or (2) Violet wire at cold side (negative) of brake is not seeing ground
through brake light system (See relay instructions in step C), or (3) switch 12 of programming
switches is in the wrong position.
 
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