My project '91 ST: A UJM for the 90's

ST_SHP

Parting a wrecked '91
Joined
Dec 27, 2010
Messages
181
Location
North Florida
Bike
1991 ST1100-UJM
I'm new here but have really enjoyed the forum thus far. A couple of days ago, I bought a well-used 1991 ST1100 that if I'm interpreting the VIN is correct is probably one of the first hundred ones made (the VIN is under 50). Mileage is at least 106K.

Anyhow, it's a beater. It's been wrecked and sat outside for an extended length of time. Since all the plastic was gone, I decided to rebuild it a little differently. I'm planning to make it a "UJM" (Universal Japanese Motorcycle) style of bike since my favorite bike has always been the 1981 Suzuki GS1000G shaft drive. I passed on a few other candidates in my journey. I nearly bought a 1981 Honda CB1000C but it was too much of a cruiser for my liking. The dual-range transmission and one year of production were neat, but also probably a parts nightmare. The other choice was a 1985 V65 Sabre. An interesting bike to read about, apparently many liked them and a few did not. This one didn't work out, and when an ST became available locally in my price range, I ended up with this one.

Here's a photo of it when I brought it home-


My plans are as follows:
1) Find out what works;

2) Find out what doesn't work (or is missing); and

3) Plan modifications and repairs/maintenance to make it roadworthy.

I performed an assessment the past couple of days, but it's been really cold here for Florida & I've not spent too much time in the shop. So far, I found the right turn signal, the tail light, and a couple of lights in the dash work. It's also not starting. It turns over but is not even trying to catch.

The horn, left side cover, and all front lights are missing. The front calipers were in a milk crate. The switches are spinning on the bars. The dash is broken- here it is after dissection:


Modifications

Gauges/dash
The first thing I looked at so far as a modification was an aftermarket dash. The Microdash comes from England and is pretty cool. I also liked the Koso dashes, but they were fairly small and didn't have all the features I wanted. One thing I found was that none of these dashes seemed to have an oil pressure readout. I didn't look at the high-end stuff that costs well over $1,000. One plan was to fabricate an aluminum panel and mount some digital gauges on it. After looking at the cost involved and not being sure I could adapt the cable drive to an electronic sender, I settled on using the stock dash and adding an oil pressure/temperature gauge from VEI Systems (I have this on my Concours and love it) along with a digital voltmeter and ambient temperature gauges. I'll probably source the latter two from Ebay. I'll also add a mount for my Archos 5 tablet. It functions as a 5" GPS navigation system and also plays stereo audio to my helmet via Bluetooth.

Handlebars
I'm replacing the handlebars with some UJM style ones I found on Ebay. Depending on how they fit/feel, I'll probably shim up the mounts by using the extra top mount/longer bolt trick. I'm buying new switches for both ends as the stuff on it was extremely crusty & the stuff on Ebay didn't look much better.

Fairing
I'm planning to add a Vetter Windjammer. I found I was not the first one to do so- another member here has done it with good results. I have one on my GS and it is great for riding. The one on my Concours just doesn't give the same coverage, even with a 7" taller windshield. My prelim viewing shows two bolts per side that may be able to be used with some angle to mount the Vetter.

Luggage
I got two bags with the ST, but it turns out they are really rough. I'm more of a tail trunk fan anyway, so my plans are to fab up an aluminum plate on the rear and add a large trunk.

Electrical & lighting
I'm working on how to add a projector headlamp to a 7" headlight so I can run HID properly. I have the HID ballasts & bulbs in my other bikes, but the pattern is not as tight as it should be. After some research, I found a projector is the best way to achieve this. On the other two, I added sub-panels for power in the fairings, and I'll do the same here. I also add a connector to the battery for a battery maintainer. I'm replacing the dash bulbs with #158 LED bulbs from the Superbright LED place. I used these in my GS rebuild, and like them. Ditto the tail 1157 bulbs and 1156 (formerly 1073) turn signal bulbs.

Repairs & maintenance

As for repairs and maintenance, here's what's on the radar after my inspection today:
1) Rebuild carbs, replace fuel filter, flush & coat tank. Looks like there was a small fire in the air cleaner at one time. The rear rubber boot is crispy and the mounting point for the base is melted (cosmetic only, still attaches OK) as is the vertical piece inside the lid.
2) Replace spark plugs.
3) Rebuild all calipers & master cylinders plus clutch hydraulics, and replace all hoses. Will make longer brake/clutch hoses as needed from braided hose & banjo fittings. Rear rotor is trashed, so I'll get a new one for there. The fronts may be usable. Front wheel to be repainted.
4) Replace wheel bearings & seals & reseal the forks. Probably do the head bearings as well.
5) Replace both tires.
6) Flush cooling system & (modification) install a 180~185 degree thermostat with appropriate fan switch. I tested the t-stat that was in the bike today in a pan of water with a meat thermometer and it didn't open until about 200 degrees. There were no markings on it to indicate a temp. The fan switch was marked 100-on, and I tested it in the pan with a multi-meter and it didn't close until right at 210 degrees (100 c is 212 f). In my mechanical ventures, I have learned a lot about cooling systems, which has been necessitated by our very hot & humid weather here in Florida. I want to be sure the cooling system is up to snuff. The hoses on the cooling system do not look to be too old, so they will stay.
7) Replace damaged right valve cover (used part, new gasket). Adjust valves while I'm there.
8) Sandblast exhaust pipes and coat with a Techline coating. I've used their Turbo-X coating on some car projects and it is good stuff. Will probably change out the mufflers, since they do not appear to be very substantial and I don't like the style.
9) Add crash bars.
10) Patch & repaint existing plastic pieces. The front fender has a small hole in it, and the tank cover has a couple of abrasions. One side cover was missing and the tail cover cracked, so whatever I end up with there will be repainted. I'll more than likely keep it gloss black.
11) Clean, clean, and clean! :) It is filthy from sitting outside. At least in my shop it is out of the elements.


I'm favorably impressed with how easy this bike is to work on. Plus I found the spin-on oil filter is the same one my Concours uses via the adapter I put on it. I know not having all the plastic is a big difference, but it's cool having the plugs & valve covers right there.

I'll update here periodically as I make progress. I'm still sorting out what needs to be fixed and what needs to be replaced and souring parts.
 
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Joined
Feb 5, 2005
Messages
8,538
Age
77
Location
Kingman, Arizona
Bike
2000 ST1100 ABS TCS
STOC #
004
Shp, we had a guy at SeaSTOC in early November showed up on a naked 11. He'd done extensive modifications. I have pics on my SeaSTOC album. Guys name is Neil (Handle = STRat). Try dropping him a PM for hints 'n tips. His is pretty unique, all the 'lectrics have been moved from the left side to under, the tank is smaller to accomidate the battery, the muffle is under where the exhaust collector used to be. The muffler is hand fabbed as is the cut-down gas tank. He's quite a craftsman.

Good luck with your project. If it can be made to run, all else is just a matter of time.
 
Joined
May 26, 2010
Messages
843
Location
Nashville
Bike
99 ST1100
Wow! I hope your price range was about four bucks! lol

You must really enjoy the process of re-building cause I think that's a little more than a weekend project.

Good Luck finding all the parts you need. Anything you can't find I'm sure someone on this forum has an extra one in their garage.

I keep trying to think of the best way to describe this effort but "masochist" is what keeps popping up.:cool:

Have fun and let us know how it's going...
 
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ST_SHP

ST_SHP

Parting a wrecked '91
Joined
Dec 27, 2010
Messages
181
Location
North Florida
Bike
1991 ST1100-UJM
George,
Thanks for the link. I'm not planning for a "rat" type of bike, but can appreciate that type of skill.

Wow! I hope your price range was about four bucks! lol

You must really enjoy the process of re-building cause I think that's a little more than a weekend project.

Good Luck finding all the parts you need. Anything you can't find I'm sure someone on this forum has an extra one in their garage.

I keep trying to think of the best way to describe this effort but "masochist" is what keeps popping up.:cool:

Have fun and let us know how it's going...
Thanks... it's not the first time around here, it's pretty much an addiction. My last car projects have involved putting Chevy motors into foreign cars (Datsun/Toyota/Mazda/ and BMW). I've sold two of them, and put the funds towards the bikes, which are a LOT easier to work on. :)

I like the idea of bringing vehicles back from the dead. My "hybrid" Toyota was a one-owner that sat outside a house in Palm Beach for years and went to pot. Bought another one wrecked and with a junkyard 5.3L Chevy V8, I made one out of two... I dig the whole E Pluribus Unum thing. :D
 
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ST_SHP

ST_SHP

Parting a wrecked '91
Joined
Dec 27, 2010
Messages
181
Location
North Florida
Bike
1991 ST1100-UJM
The weather has warmed up a bit, although I spent the day at my new favorite place to shop, Harbor Freight. I picked up the last motorcycle tire changer kit they had- the floor model, a big bottle of aluminum oxide abrasive, and a paint spray gun. I then pulled out a "new in box" sandblaster I bought from them like 5 years ago & had never used (I use a blast cabinet for blasting). Spent the rest of the daylight putting it together only to find the water trap is broken.

As for the project, I've ordered a few things, and done a lot of research into the cooling system. Here's a recap:

Tires & brakes
I found the Michelin Macadam 50 on sale for like 50% off at a place called Jake Wilson. Ordered two after reading some favorable reviews and not finding them for much less than twice the $65 price online. Also ordered an Avon road rider for the front, along with three sets of pads. I had a tough time getting the rear caliper off, and really thought the rotor was worn out. Turns out after doing some measuring it is 5.8mm (7.2 on the outside), the right front is 2.03(!!!) and the left front 4.60. Minimum spec is 4mm. New rotors will cost more ($500) than the bike did! Ouch. I'll look at some used ones, but I really don't like the idea of putting new pads onto used rotors, although I did so on my Concours recently. Also ordered wheel bearings & seals and a set of plugs.

EDIT
I got the factory manual recently and the minimum spec for the rear rotor is 6mm, so I'm below spec on 2 of the three. I found a vendor on eBay that will sell all three Galfer wave rotors for $400 shipped.

Exhaust
I measured the plastic-feeling mufflers that were on the bike- they were full of something, sounded like rust particles. I found I can use a set of Magnaflow 4" mufflers with the 18" case, part # 10424. I got these for about $57 each shipped from Performance Peddler. You have to "make an offer" and they email you with their best price & a code to use.

Lights
I ordered a set of #168 LED bulbs from Superbright LEDs for the dash (got red and blue to see which I will like better, plus the digital gauge I'm going to get will probably be red), and bike-specific LED bulbs for the tail light as well as LEDs for the rear turn signals.

Paint
I ordered some specialty coatings from Caswell Plating to include a black ceramic for the pipes (hence the need for the sand blaster, you have to blast the metal prior to applying the ceramic). Also got some aluminum wheel paint, black chassis paint, and a tank seal kit.

I also picked up a couple of cans of Rustoleum, black and white. I'm considering my options for the final color. I've never had a white bike, and it would be somewhat unusual. I also like their sail blue, but it may be a bit much. I used this paint when I roller painted my Toyota & Datsun. For a $70 paint job, they came out OK. I'm planning to spray the bike parts though.

Gauges
I'm working to see if I can replace the C to H water temperature gauge with one that has numbered markings. I found a place that sold a 45mm WT gauge, but they wouldn't sell me the guts. Since it was almost $80, I instead opted for a $30 Autometer 2355 1.5" electric unit from Summit Racing. I'll still have to cut it open to see if it can be mounted in place of the 1.6" diameter factory gauge. I'd really like to have an LED gauge there, but couldn't find one that would fit.

Cooling system mods
When I couldn't find what I wanted online, I spent the past two days looking for & reading specs on fan switches. I must have looked at over 100. A popular switch for Japanese bikes is the TS-84, but it is longer than stock and has a bullet connector I don't like. As noted above, the OEM unit waits too long to turn the fan on IMO, so I wanted to first lower the operating temp to around 180 via the thermostat. I picked up a 180 degree unit from a local parts house, it was listed as being for a 1979 Civic. The opening is smaller than the OEM thermostat, but the restriction may slow the flow and actually aid cooling by keeping the coolant in the radiator longer (one of the things I learned putting 5.3L Chevy motors in place of 1.3~3.0L Japanese ones).

I'm going to attach a MS Word document I wrote today dealing with fan switches. It used to be you could download an illustrated parts catalog from Standard or Everco and leisurely research data, but apparently not any more. I had to read descriptions and look at photos to find one as close as possible to the OEM switch. The short version here is I'm using a TS-251 that I found at Rock Auto for about $18 shipped. There are many switches that will fit in the 16mm x 1.5 opening, but I eliminated those longer than the stock one. This is a two-wire switch, meaning the connector gets cut off, one wire grounded, and the other gets a male blade terminal so the factory connector will plug in. This switch should allow the thermostat to perform cooling functions while underway, and run the fan only as needed during slow speeds and while stopped. You have to be careful with specs since if you get a switch that cuts off below your thermostat, the fan will run all of the time.

Next up I have to go back to Harbor Freight & try to find a water trap for the blaster, then I can pull the pipes and prep them for the coating. I'm also making a list of the parts I need and to see if they are best obtained new or used. I still can't get over $500 for a set of three brake rotors.
 

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ST_SHP

ST_SHP

Parting a wrecked '91
Joined
Dec 27, 2010
Messages
181
Location
North Florida
Bike
1991 ST1100-UJM
The least amount I found at one vendor was the Galfer DS022 front ($169 each) and the EBC MD1077 rear ($156) with $5 shipping for a total of $499. I couldn't find the Galfer DS054 rear rotor at most vendors. I can shave a few $ on eBay on the rear rotor ($126 shipped for the DS054). I'm going to keep shopping for a set, and perhaps can pick up a decent used set.
 
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Kingman, Arizona
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2000 ST1100 ABS TCS
STOC #
004
SHP, I don't understand not putting new pads on used rotors. We all do it during the normal life of the bike. A set of used rotors from Don Cortez (he has a bunch of wrecked STs) would stand ya in good stead. (Don't recall his handle right now but someone here will poST it.) He has most of the small parts piling up from several bikes, has sold off most of the "popular" parts but hard parts aren't needed as much. I've found the stock rotors will last a looooooooooong time if the calipers are kept up to snuff.

I also recommend STock pads, but price can be an issue.

Watching this thread with much interest. A lot of what you are planning will be applicable to any 1100.

BTW, STRat used the top part of a Connie fairing and modified gauges from a Connie, purchased used. Tho he calls his a "rat" it's far from that. Other than the small fairing 'n such, it's a fully functional road burner.

As to fairing, I'd much rather see you use one of Vetters earlier "full" fairings than the 'Jammer. Availability is rare, tho. And, that's just me 'cause I had one on my CB-500-5 back in "the day."

Please do continue to update, this is gonna be good PMS medicine. ;D

It's also the inspiration I need to pull my buSTed black 91 out'a the corner 'n do some work.
 
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ST_SHP

ST_SHP

Parting a wrecked '91
Joined
Dec 27, 2010
Messages
181
Location
North Florida
Bike
1991 ST1100-UJM
I'm still getting adjusted to wrenching on 2 wheels vs. 4. In auto shop, we always resurfaced rotors (and more drums than rotors if this gives you a clue as to how long ago that was ;)) when doing brake work, so I guess that was instilled in me at a young age. When I had a tire installed on my Concours a few months back, the guy told me the rear brakes were worn. I asked if they resurfaced the rotor & he said no.

I posted a wanted post here for a few parts to include rotors. I want to know how thick they are prior to purchase though. My "Kentucky windage" fingers told me the rear one was the worst on my bike, but it turned out to be the best.
 

JimSTer

Motorcycle "rider"!!
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15 Yamaha FJ-09
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You can contact Don Cortez at: freestyle_don@sti.net

His STO handle is freestyle

He has lots of ST1100 parts, I bought a set of front rotors from him and they have worked very well for over 30K.

Lots of luck on your rebuild. It sounds like fun to me.
 
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ST_SHP

ST_SHP

Parting a wrecked '91
Joined
Dec 27, 2010
Messages
181
Location
North Florida
Bike
1991 ST1100-UJM
I got a good bit done today after I rode my GS in some near-perfect 70 degree weather. The sandblaster is fixed, and the Auto Gage (AG) #2355 water temp unit arrived today- Summit rocks for shipping.

I've gotten most of the legwork done for the gauge install. I'll post some pics below. Next was the thermostat housing- drilled & tapped it for 1/8 NPT, plus sandblasted & painted it. My new eBay handlebars came in today, and I was able to test fit them.

Water temperature gauge
I have over 30 pictures of this modification. I'll only post a few here. The gauge face is slightly (1.4") smaller than the OEM one (1.6"). The AG gauge also uses three mounting points, albeit 3/16" studs vs. the tiny OEM screws. You can't just enlarge the holes, the AG unit must sit higher in the dash. The nice thing about having a busted dash panel is that you can drill as many holes as needed to ensure a good fit. The gauge needs to sit about .4" higher than the OEM holes. Another factor is the AG has a winding where the OEM gauge has a panel. I'm still working on that part of it. Here's a few pics:



Peeling off the face:


Parts:


Test fit, too low:



Just about right:


I'm going to shim out the "Autogage" lower cover onto the gauge itself. I was thinking I could glue it to the dash, but this way it will line up better.

I'll cover the other stuff in the next post.
 
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ST_SHP

ST_SHP

Parting a wrecked '91
Joined
Dec 27, 2010
Messages
181
Location
North Florida
Bike
1991 ST1100-UJM
Thermostat housing

A pic is worth 1,000 words, so the before & after will speak for themselves. The AG sender is a little longer than the OEM one, and it was too tight when I installed it, so I drilled & tapped it for 1/8 NPT. The length should be OK. I sandblasted it in my cabinet and then cleaned it on a wire wheel and painted it. The AG sender will require a ring terminal on the OEM lead, which uses a bullet connector.

Before:


Senders:


New sender installed:


Blasted, wire wheeled and painted:


After I did this, I pulled the radiator & fan so I can refinish them.


Handlebars

I bought these for like $15 on eBay. They are 7/8 diameter just like the stock ones. They have a lot more rise, and I didn't care for the amount of pullback, so I used a long pipe to pull them forward a little. While everything fit on the right side, I'll definitely have to lengthen the wires on the left switch.





Tomorrow I'm going to try & pull the rest of the exhaust off and get it sandblasted.
 

Bigmak96

R.I.P. - 2021/08/07
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I'm with George, this is going to be fun watching this come back from the dead. Thanks for taking the time to share with us!
 
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ST_SHP

ST_SHP

Parting a wrecked '91
Joined
Dec 27, 2010
Messages
181
Location
North Florida
Bike
1991 ST1100-UJM
Today I pulled the exhaust after pressure washing the bike. Again, I'm impressed with how easy parts are to get to. I broke off one stud & one bolt on the heat shields, figured it would be a lot worse looking at them. I was able to drill them out & re-thread them to 6mm x 1.0.

I picked up a large tub at Wal-Mart so I could recycle some of the aluminum oxide I'm blasting with. Even at that, I still ran out after spraying 44 pounds. Will pick up some more tomorrow.

Here's a few pics:

Getting ready to sandblast:


Pipes before:


During:


I also blasted one side of the spare wheel that came with the bike so I could gauge the spray pattern. The setup works fairly well, but the media definitely goes everywhere. It was cool watching the rust go away. All of the exhaust will be coated with a Techline ceramic coating that acts as a thermal barrier. I'm also going to replace all of the bolts with stainless socket bolts so the next guy won't have to fight this battle.

A couple more things were also accomplished- I patched the hole and cracks in the front fender / tail fairing with some JB Weld.

The fan had some cheap-o wiring attached (it was wired to run all of the time, not a good sign), so I'll have to cut it out & splice in some automotive grade wire. I also noticed damage to the wiring going up to the right switch. One more thing to fix, but I need to lengthen these anyway. I also got the base for my Harbor Freight tire changer completed- it will slide into my truck's trailer hitch. I think my next area will be the removal of the wheels and/or the fuel tank as time & weather allows. I have a MC jack from HF that is designed to hold the bike up, so I can give it a try.
 
Joined
Feb 5, 2005
Messages
8,538
Age
77
Location
Kingman, Arizona
Bike
2000 ST1100 ABS TCS
STOC #
004
Looking good, SHP. Lots of work and yur adding to it by documenting the job.

Keep'em coming.
 
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ST_SHP

ST_SHP

Parting a wrecked '91
Joined
Dec 27, 2010
Messages
181
Location
North Florida
Bike
1991 ST1100-UJM
Thanks George, glad to help & it's enjoyable breathing life back into it. I thought I had a simple solution to the non-starting problem last night when I read about the bank angle sensor in the shop manual. Went outside and sure enough it was hanging upside down. Uprighted it & I could hear the fuel pump when I turned the key, turned it upside down & no fuel pump. Still didn't start though. :( Any thoughts on running some Seafoam through the tank? If I could avoid pulling the carbs this would be a big help. The PO said it was last run about a month ago, for what that's worth. The gas in the tank smells OK.

I'm also going to put up a post elsewhere about some help in getting a Vetter fairing with radio box. I can find what I want in other parts of the country for around $50 (looks like Ohio, PA, and Texas for just the radio box). What I'm going to need is a member that can pick it up and put it in a box so I can have it shipped here. There just aren't any in driving range right now.
 
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ST_SHP

ST_SHP

Parting a wrecked '91
Joined
Dec 27, 2010
Messages
181
Location
North Florida
Bike
1991 ST1100-UJM
Today I finished the sandblasting (except for the front wheel) and also did some more patchwork on the hole in the front fender. While I was blasting I did the brake calipers and finished the spare wheel as well. No photos since it's too difficult to keep anything clean around the aluminum oxide. Also pulled the gas tank & carbs. One of them was not sealed properly to the boot, and all of the boots were hard and crusty. Plus there was a drain hose that was not connected, not sure where it originated. I pulled the pistons out of all three calipers- every one was seized, and the front pads were shot.

My LED bulbs and replacement tail light, engine guards, and mirror mount arrived. I should be getting the exhaust & tank coating plus wheel paint this week so I can refinish those items.
 
Joined
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Messages
8,538
Age
77
Location
Kingman, Arizona
Bike
2000 ST1100 ABS TCS
STOC #
004
SHP, use the RAN liST to find a local member to help ya with shipping from about anywhere. There's lots of folks there all over the country.

Yur working pretty hard on this, any projected completion date?
 
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ST_SHP

ST_SHP

Parting a wrecked '91
Joined
Dec 27, 2010
Messages
181
Location
North Florida
Bike
1991 ST1100-UJM
I find that if I set a date something unpredicted will happen. As a rough guess, I'd say a couple of months.
 
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