Changing spark plugs ?

Can you change the spark plugs in an ST 1300 without pulling fairing panels?

I've got a little over 20,000 miles on mine now and will be taking a trip to the Pacific Northwest in August. Thinking about changing plugs before i go.

One of the easiest things to do on an ST, just remove the little maintenance panels just like you do when you need to add oil or coolant.

Exactly what wrench or socket do you recommend for changing the spark plugs? I've got an 06 that only came with the allen wrench and my standard socket is too wide and not long enough. Thanks!

You have to remove the maintenance cover on each side of the fairing, (1x plastic rivet) then carefully pull up the rear plastic top cover it's a peg held in place by a rubber grommet, once this is released slide the cover forward, (2x plastic hooks) held in place by rubber covered lugs, it's a bit tight in there so don't force it, once removed you can remove the plug leads, and get to the plugs. before refitting smear a little grease on the lugs and pegs this will allow the cover to slide into place. remember don't use too much force.

jmgatlin said:

Exactly what wrench or socket do you recommend for changing the spark plugs? I've got an 06 that only came with the allen wrench and my standard socket is too wide and not long enough. Thanks!

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The wrench they supply in the tool kit does the job very well and is available as a separate part in the Honda parts fiche. Or you could just distract an '05 owner with some pie and raid his tool kit.

--Mark

It looked to me as if it could be done, but nothing else is easy to get to on this bike (ie air cleaner) without removing a bunch of stuff which I also plan on changing , so i figured it would be harder than it looks. Good to know it isn't. Thanks.

jmgatlin said:

Exactly what wrench or socket do you recommend for changing the spark plugs? I've got an 06 that only came with the allen wrench and my standard socket is too wide and not long enough. Thanks!

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I have a Honda plug wrench that came with my '94ST, but I like my KD from Sears much better.
It's a KD3928 5/8in. It has about a 6in swivel extension and it's magnetized! Works great!
I think I paid ~ $20 for it.
Here's a page with the one I have and a couple of others. The Gear Wrench one for $10 looks even better!
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_12605?keyword=5/8+swivel+spark+plug+

Thanks everyone. I didn't mean to hijack this thread, but I've got to replace my plugs as well this Spring.

Blrfl said:

Or you could just distract an '05 owner with some pie and raid his tool kit.

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And I'm so glad to know that with a piece of pie I can pretty much fix anything on my ST!

I could not get mine out without removing the fairings. I still can't figure out how you guys did it.
There was no way I could get those long plug caps to clear the fairing. They're just too long.

No threadjack at all..good info for everyone with an ST that only got an allen wrench and piece of foam for a tool kit

two_wheeled said:

I could not get mine out without removing the fairings. I still can't figure out how you guys did it.
There was no way I could get those long plug caps to clear the fairing. They're just too long.

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It's a bit of a squeeze, but it's doable. Get the wires clear of the PAIR valve housing and after the dust cap has cleared the valve cover by an inch or two, turn it so the wire has the most slack you can give it, give the long rubber part a little flex and pull it out. Installation is the reverse.

--Mark

20,000?? Why change them? They're hardly broken in.

If you do change plugs, some additional suggestions:

Pre-#1- don't change the plugs on a hot engine. Think about the vastly different expansion rates of aluminium and steel and you won't need to ask why.

1) Loosen the plugs one turn and use high pressure air (shop air or canned if shop unavailable) to blow out any loosened materials such as sand and stones so they don't fall into the cylinder. Then remove the plugs. Have a good look at the color of the ceramic center electrode to ensure that they are uniform in color. They should be a light tan color but uniform color or something is going wrong with some cylinder(s).

2) Be sure to verify the gap is correct on the new plugs before installing. When in the parts business, I used to settle the argument over whether plugs are "pre-gapped from the factory" by slamming the box of plugs onto the counter with enough force to make things bounce into the air. Plugs in a box are tougher than nails! I would then mildly enquire as to how they knew that no one has dropped those plugs between the factory and here? Customers always laughed and saw the point.

3) Lubricate the plug threads with some anti-seize or motor oil.

4) Install the plugs with recommended torque or turns specified. Start them by hand and ensure that they thread in easily several turns before using a drive tool.

5) Coat the plug boot's sealing surface with di-electric grease.

6) Triple check to make sure that the spark plug cap has coupled with the spark plug.

7) Re-assemble and you're good to go.

HIH

Norm

two_wheeled said:

I could not get mine out without removing the fairings. I still can't figure out how you guys did it.
There was no way I could get those long plug caps to clear the fairing. They're just too long.

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x2....WOW. not sure about all the forcing that has to be done. GEEZ, would 1.5" more wiring have hurt on # 3 & 4 ? !!!!


*** UPDATE *** TRUST what they say. only took 5 min to do # 3 & #4 once I decided a bit of muscle was advised. THANKS STers ! Getting ready for Moonshile, but hope to have many miles done before then....if Old Man Winter would cooperate !

And don't be surprised if, when removing the plug cap from the RH rear cylinder, that the cap separates from the plug wire. There isn't much room in there and the plug wire is shorter than what you would think it should be. Honda plug wires are a twist fit to the plug caps....if yours comes loose, just spin it back in. There aren't any real threads or anything for the wire to catch on inside the plug cap....doesn't seem like its a tight fit, but spinning it on is all it takes.

I had a tough time today trying to change my plugs also. (34K) One plug wire/boot on each side was very short and I hated to pull so hard on the wire to flex those two boots off. I did my plugs once before at 16k and don't remember it being so difficult.
The next time I'll loosen the side fairing as a couple of you have done to see if I can free up a little more wire room.

I agree with Norm. You shouldn't need to change plugs at 20,000 or even 30,000. I changed mine a while ago (without having to do anything with the fairing beyond the small access panel) and realized that I should have saved my money. This isn't the 70s with points and condenser ignition. This isn't a Harley. This is Honda. Their electronic ignition systems have tightly controlled voltages so the electrodes on the plugs aren't going to deteriorate in 60,000 miles. If the the color of the plugs is right when you pull them, just clean and re-gap (probably not even necessary) and put them back in. Then ride with confidence.

I'm getting ready to replace the original plugs in my '06. I checked them at 50k and they looked great. I'm now at 84k. I'll post photos of the old plugs.

Sent from my XT881 using Tapatalk 2

I just replaced mine. USE A TORQUE WRENCH WHEN YOU PUT THE NEW ONES IN!

Don't ask me why I recommend this so strongly.

mnxs54 said:

I just replaced mine. USE A TORQUE WRENCH WHEN YOU PUT THE NEW ONES IN!

Don't ask me why I recommend this so strongly.

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I disagree....

I think that it is best to ground the gasket, then turn it in a specified amount.....to be specified by the manufacturer (for NGKs anyway).

I just changed mine this weekend with iridium plugs and was hoping for a world of difference. No change!
Bet I could of went 100,000 miles with the original plugs.