Faulty rear modulator crank angle sensor system

Brooksby · Mar 13, 2011

Hi,

I have found great info on these forums about my fault, which is ABS light flashing.

As the title suggests the code is 2 blinks and I have found replacements of about ?125 then about ?175 to have it fitted if I don't do it myself.

The only thing I cannot find is any pictures, I have no idea what it looks llike or where on the rear calliper it is, as it may just need cleaning.

So any pic locations would be nice, but I have bought a Haynes Manual from EBay and it will be here in a week or so.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Andy

Blrfl · Mar 13, 2011

The crank angle sensor is a part internal to the modulator unit, which is mounted behind the right side cover. (I'm assuming you have an 1100.) Pull up the parts fiche from anyone who sells parts online and you can see how it all goes together.

The UK's special brand of road crud is known to foul electrical connections, so I would start by giving the connectors at the modulator and the ABS computer a good inspection and cleaning before replacing the modulator.

--Mark

wjbertrand · Mar 13, 2011

Did you try clearing the code first? Had that one happen to me and it never came back after I cleared it.

Brooksby · Mar 13, 2011

I am not sure if I have cleared it to be honest, I pressed the button on the left hand side of the fairing and it stops flashing and stays on solid. Which I am assuming means I have told the bike I know about the fault but it is still there.

But decent pictures is what I am really looking for.

Thanks for the replies.

Firstpeke · Mar 13, 2011

Okay.... is the battery good and fully charged?
Are the battery connections clean and good and tight at both the battery and the starter solenoid and frame?
Clean and apply dielectric grease to the connections at the ABS actuators and the ABS controller.

Test.

You may find that it has cleared and doesn't come back.

broc11 · Feb 2, 2014

Just found fault code 2 now myself,the fun never ends.

primus · Jan 22, 2015

broc11 said:
Just found fault code 2 now myself,the fun never ends.

Me too! Oh what joy.

Paul

primus · Jan 24, 2015

broc11 said:
Are you going to try and fix it? I just removed the abs bulbs from the dash, I have no abs or traction control now but the bike stops very well with the combined brakes, same braking system as on my vfr. I might have a look at the wiring connection at the rear modulator when I have the wheel off for a new tyre in a few months time.

Yep. Probably remove the bulbs. I tried pulling the fuses earlier but the dash ended up looking like Blackpool! If the weather stays ok I'll carry on with it tomorrow.

Paul

primus · Jan 24, 2015

I think it will come to that. Thanks for the advice Bud.

Paul

primus · Jan 31, 2015

Just an update Peeps. Awaiting a sensor which I bought on Evil Bay for ?99 + p+p. It should arrive Tuesday. Here's hoping......

Paul

broc11 · Jan 31, 2015

primus said:
Just an update Peeps. Awaiting a sensor which I bought on Evil Bay for ?99 + p+p. It should arrive Tuesday. Here's hoping......

Paul

.

Hi have you the item number? didn't know it could be bought separately, thanks.

SMSW · Jan 31, 2015

Blrfl said:
The UK's special brand of road crud is known to foul electrical connections, so I would start by giving the connectors at the modulator and the ABS computer a good inspection and cleaning before replacing the modulator.

--Mark

Any idea what in their road dirt is the problem? I would think salt on our roads (up north) would play havoc with all sorts of things. Yes, most of it is gone by the time riding season begins, but now and then some guys get antsy and take their bike out either between snow storms or before all the crud is washed away in spring rains.

primus · Feb 14, 2015

broc11 said:
.

Hi have you the item number? didn't know it could be bought separately, thanks.

The part no. is 57920-MAJ-G40.

As per usual, it ended in tears! Both the screws sheared off so I tried drilling them out without removing from the bike. The drill veered of the steel stud and drilled the aluminium next to it. No problem I thought, I notch out the sensor to suit but then realised that the slotted holes in the sensor are steel inserts. I then proceeded to remove one of them and use a washer to fix in position. Should be simple enough I thought.....nah. It won't sit straight. Anyway I've now got a complete used unit for ?160 so I now need to do some homework on fitting. I have no doubt the answers will lie within this forum.

Here's hoping

Paul

Bush · Feb 15, 2015

primus said:
The part no. is 57920-MAJ-G40.

As per usual, it ended in tears! Both the screws sheared off so I tried drilling them out without removing from the bike. The drill veered of the steel stud and drilled the aluminium next to it. No problem I thought, I notch out the sensor to suit but then realised that the slotted holes in the sensor are steel inserts. I then proceeded to remove one of them and use a washer to fix in position. Should be simple enough I thought.....nah. It won't sit straight. Anyway I've now got a complete used unit for ?160 so I now need to do some homework on fitting. I have no doubt the answers will lie within this forum.

Here's hoping

Paul

My recent experience with sheared bolts going into aluminum (stator housing bolts on a pre '96 model 28 amp alternator) led me to use a much less horror fraught route than drilling, where so many things can go wrong, as you unfortunately discovered. This might help broc though. Take the part off and get to a welding shop and have them MIG weld a washer and nut onto the broken bolt stub. With careful, slow back and forth turning of the nut, using oil to penetrate the threads the stud will come out. Then run a tap through the threads to clean them up. Works like a charm.

primus · Feb 17, 2015

I wish I had taken the unit off the bike prior to drilling. Anyway, whats done cant be undone so I will attempt a swap out. Any advice on how to bleed the system will be very welcome.

Paul

primus · Feb 21, 2015

OK Newsflash. Bike passed its MOT today. I was nervous about it failing on an expensive issue so I will now endevour to fit the 2nd hand rear modulator as I now don't mind spending a bit of cash on it. Who has attempted this in the past? Any words of wisdom will be greatly appreciated. Will a normal brake bleed procedure be required or will I open a can of worms?

As always, I am grateful for your input

Paul

Faulty rear modulator crank angle sensor system

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