1300 load ability

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I'm not getting any lighter, someone I know isn't ether, and I'm wanting to pull a trailer and do some MC camping, so I'm bumping up against load limitations. I'm thinking of turning to the DARK side, I know that will allow a bit more capacity , but my rear shock (or should I say rear spring) isn't going to be happy. I have serviced my preload adjuster (and that helped) but I'm thinking an aftermarket spring may be what I need. Anyone have any suggestions ?
 

JohnK

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So I was planning on going with a race tech upgrade to handle more weight and avoid front dive/sag/bottom out issues when two up and loaded. We gained a little over the years too

The front forks and the rear should be matched to projected rider weight - that takes into account additional weight. Also you want a good balance so the bike is level.

if your not too concerned about the handling changes (and there will be!). and primarily going with tour vs sport the stronger spring and dark side combo would suffice. Beware that your damper in the rear would need a rebuild too. Some folk send in their rear spring to be rebuilt and modified, an option I will do.

My fronts need new seals so I will buy the matching spring and valve to up grade. So if your going to beef up the rear do the front too

My order will be set at my weight plus ATTGAT, giving a gross weight projection when selecting from their chart.

My two cents.
 
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RichKat
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So I was planning on going with a race tech upgrade to handle more weight and avoid front dive/sag/bottom out issues when two up and loaded. We gained a little over the years too

The front forks and the rear should be matched to projected rider weight - that takes into account additional weight. Also you want a good balance so the bike is level.

if your not too concerned about the handling changes (and there will be!). and primarily going with tour vs sport the stronger spring and dark side combo would suffice. Beware that your damper in the rear would need a rebuild too. Some folk send in their rear spring to be rebuilt and modified, an option I will do.

My fronts need new seals so I will buy the matching spring and valve to up grade. So if your going to beef up the rear do the front too

My order will be set at my weight plus ATTGAT, giving a gross weight projection when selecting from their chart.

My two cents.
Let me know your setup and how it works, it will be a while before I can afford to change mine
 

dduelin

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The RaceTech website has spring calculators here. Load your ST1300 and follow the prompts. I wouldn't worry too much right now about the tires handling the loaded gross weight. The OEM suspension is built for a 150 lb rider. Two ups with a little middle-age spread overwhelm the factory springs.
 
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RichKat
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The RaceTech website has spring calculators here. Load your ST1300 and follow the prompts. I wouldn't worry too much right now about the tires handling the loaded gross weight. The OEM suspension is built for a 150 lb rider. Two ups with a little middle-age spread overwhelm the factory springs.
Thanks for that link
 

Sadlsor

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After next week, I'll be riding with a trailer behind me, also.
When the current new tire is done, I'm likely to go Dark. Can't help but believe even with a lightweight trailer in tow, the mileage on the rear rubber is going to suffer with motorcycle tires.
The only point of hesitancy, in my case, is I'm extremely resistant to take a grinder to my bike's swingarm. Some tires may not require that radical invasive surgery to clear the swingarm, but it seems many do, and even within tire models, it's a crapshoot / roll of the dice / tossup / uncertainty.
There certainly are darkside threads in the forums, from which to glean information and experiences of others.
 

W0QNX

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One problem with the darkside tire on an ST1300 is the wide tires rub the top "sides" of the inner fender worse than a regular tire. Worse is actually a wrong statement because a stock tire does not rub the inner fender at all.

The car tire rubs a lot more as in I don't have half of plastic up inside my rear fender top sides any more. The car tire only rubs when the rear bottoms out so it gets to where so much plastic is gone and that's about it.

Be sure this is the right choice going darkside.
 
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The gross vehicle weight of your ST is set by Honda based on structural and handling criteria, not the springs that come with the bike. In other words, you cannot increase the load carrying capacity of the bike by changing the springs, dampening, and running a car tire. Of course, folks are running their bikes over the max gross vehicular weight, but add a tralier, and your stopping distances and handling will suffer. If you decide to do this, go into it with your eyes open, and be extra attentive when fully loaded.
 
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RichKat
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Just to be clear, I don't intend to exceed the limits by much, just that my wife and I alone, get it right up to the posted limits. (I do think Honda is covering their butts with the quoted limit) my plan is to have most of the weight in the trailer, the bags and top case will have clothing and light stuff in them. Also, I'm hoping to have brakes on the trailer. And hopefully I'll only be exceeding the limit by 100# or less, at least that's the plan
 
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Just to be clear, I don't intend to exceed the limits by much, just that my wife and I alone, get it right up to the posted limits. (I do think Honda is covering their butts with the quoted limit) my plan is to have most of the weight in the trailer, the bags and top case will have clothing and light stuff in them. Also, I'm hoping to have brakes on the trailer. And hopefully I'll only be exceeding the limit by 100# or less, at least that's the plan
I'm usually on the more adventurous side of the "better safe than sorry" debates, but in this case I don't know that I'd be betting on Honda understating the "real" loading limit by 100lbs. If I had to do it once or twice for a particular reason, maybe, but for continuous use, no way.
 

ST1100Y

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The RaceTech website has spring calculators here. Load your ST1300 and follow the prompts. I wouldn't worry too much right now about the tires handling the loaded gross weight. The OEM suspension is built for a 150 lb rider. Two ups with a little middle-age spread overwhelm the factory springs.
Did some digging on my old posts:
An ST1100 is rated to handle a max payload up to 395~440lbs, probably similar numbers on the 1300... quick math shows that won't do for the most of us...
Got my Wilbers shock designed for a range from 220lbs (me solo in gear) up to 550lbs (2 up, full regalia)... and I'm not a "huge" guy, neither were my pillions...
To me an under-sprung motorcycle never felt safe, hence the suspension upgrade...
Friend of mine has a 1300 and went with the full Wilbers upgrade (front and rear), he's a big guy and instantly loved the new, planted, precise handling...
 

dduelin

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Did some digging on my old posts:
An ST1100 is rated to handle a max payload up to 395~440lbs, probably similar numbers on the 1300... quick math shows that won't do for the most of us...
Got my Wilbers shock designed for a range from 220lbs (me solo in gear) up to 550lbs (2 up, full regalia)... and I'm not a "huge" guy, neither were my pillions...
To me an under-sprung motorcycle never felt safe, hence the suspension upgrade...
Friend of mine has a 1300 and went with the full Wilbers upgrade (front and rear), he's a big guy and instantly loved the new, planted, precise handling...
I recall the payload is 390 to 400 lbs for a stock ST1300 depending on ABS or not, give or take 5 lbs. It's easy to calculate. The gross allowable weight is on a placard on the headstock and we know the ST is 721 to 730 lbs, stock bike, full of fuel ready to ride. Then subtract weight of farkles or add-ons like top boxes, highway pegs, crash protection bars, hitches & trailers. Pretty paltry actually for average build humans. For comparison my RT's payload is over 500 lbs, the Goldwing about 395.
 
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Did some digging on my old posts:
An ST1100 is rated to handle a max payload up to 395~440lbs, probably similar numbers on the 1300..
I recall the payload is 390 to 400 lbs for a stock ST1300
Just for giggles, I looked in the bible. My Honda Service Manual - '03-'11; ST1300/A, ST1300P/PA on pg 1-4 shows:
Maximum Weight Capacity (Except After '07 CM type) ...... 182kg (401 lbs)
Maximum Weight Capacity (After '07 CM type) .................. 186kg (410 lbs)
 

jfheath

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It's not just the rear suspension that is affected by excess weight. The entire seating area is mounted on the frame, cantilevered by the enormouse cast alloy bracket with the footrests, by two massive bolts. The seat frame supports the entire weight of rider and pillion, two paniers and the top box.
The seat is bolted to the engine frame at the front of the seat, and the rear of it is supported by two bolts mounted to the footrest bracket by two bolts. The top box and panniers are also fastened to the seat frame.

The seat frame is tubular. The shape formed by the engine frame, tubular seat frame, massive footest bracket and the rear support for the seat frame (also tubular) is not a triangle, so the sahpe isn't a rigidd structure. But the footrest bracket is pretty rigid, so that is probably close enough. But only two parts of it are tubular - the top seat frame and the short supports to the rear of the massive footrest bracket. There is a temptation to think that bracket will always be there. But it has a heck of a lot of weight bouncing up and down on a very long lever, held in place by the casting surrounding two very large bolts. That casting is all there is. Everything has a breaking point.

And of course, all of this weight and more under heavy braking is taken by two more tubes sticking out at the front of the bike.

As for the seat tubes and the welding of those tubes. There's nothing supporting the middle section of the seat frame. Tubes are quite strong, vertical to the load. Less so if the load is on them horizontally (but still stronger than solid). But tubes are like the proverbial camel's back. They support the weight until they don't - at which point they buckle and are pretty much useless for supporting anything.

Trouble is - we don't have a clue what the actual breaking point is. But there will be a margin for safety, for the odd sudden bottoming out, for manufacturing variations.

All we know is what we need it to be to be safe. My 2009 model came with stickers all over the place saying clearly what the maximum load is for each pocket, pannier, luggage, total. The Handbook is similarly very clear with warnings printed in bold letters. None of this was there in that detail in the manual that came with my 2006 model.

Perhaps there was (ahem) some incident in the past that made Honda think that it was essential that they make it clear where their liability stops.

The total weight of the accessories and luggage added to the rider and passenger's weight should not exceed 196kg (432lb). (2009 UK handbook and 2003/4 Workshop Manual)
The luggage weight must not exceed 31kg under any circumstances. (2009 UK Handbook)
I've only ever guessed the weight of my riding gear - I must weigh myself with it all on one day. Goodness knows how much heavier it will be when wet.

There is an interesting article written in RIDE magazine last month, by a lawyer who specialises in motorcyclist representations. Someone had written in - his new bike's suspension had failed and he didn't want to foot the bill as the manufacturers said that his claim wasn't covered by the warranty. The reason being he had loaded the bike beyond the manufacturers gross vehicle weight. (Way beyond in fact). Which in the UK is a criminal offence. The top of the shock absorber mount had split.

We used to get pretty close to the maximum ourselves, but I always kept an eye on it and reduced the weight of the camping gear. Posted the dirty washing home to make room for other stuff !
 
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