Looks like the front brakes are dragging a bit. Do I only need new piston seals? Get slide pins as well? Just curious as to what should be replaced while the calipers are torn apart.
1996 1100 front caliper rebuild - required parts
- Thread starter Joeywhat
- Start date
The Cheese
All depends on what you find when you take it apart. If pistons are pitted you'll want to change em. Same with the slider pins. Rubber bits are pretty much a given. Look at the return port in the brake master cylinder. A clogged return will show the same symptoms.
If it were mine I would order everything I think I would need before hand to keep downtime short. Put what I don't use up for next time.
If it were mine I would order everything I think I would need before hand to keep downtime short. Put what I don't use up for next time.
Just to be sure - you know that these disc brakes will always have a bit of drag, right? The wheel should spin fairly easily, but you will notice a definite scuffing sound as it rotates.
Yes I know. It's difficult to move the front wheel at all.
I just did the front caliper rebuild on my 1990. One piston was dragging. The pins were fine, all it needed was a seal set for each piston and a clean up of the grooves for the dust seals. They were full of hard crap.
I found that adjusting the brake lever makes it better/worse depending on where it's at, but at its best it still hangs up a bit. Shouldn't I get the full range of adjustment in the lever anyways?
since caliper removal takes all of two bolts on each side, you could take a look at cleaning everything up first before ordering replacement parts. Make sure the pistons don't have any accumulated crud and that the slide pins are clean and lubricated.
I rebuilt my front calipers last week, what was really needed was just to replace the seals, and polish the pistons. I bought replacement sliding pins but could only extract the ones on the caliper mount, not the ones in the caliper itself. The latter would not budge, and there is only a small hex-head in the ends of them to work with. I decided they looked fine anyway, removed a little surface corrosion and fitted new rubber parts.
Grabbed new seals, a brake MC rebuild kit and some new MC covers for both clutch and brake to get rid of the stupid device mounts welded to them...
Hopefully this fixes the brake drag issue. The pistons do seem to retract after a bit of "help" rocking the bike back and forth, but I don't like doing that every time I come to a stop.
Hopefully this fixes the brake drag issue. The pistons do seem to retract after a bit of "help" rocking the bike back and forth, but I don't like doing that every time I come to a stop.
You need to clean out all the "white" corrosion in the seal grooves. that stuff causes the dragging, IMHO. But don't use a metal tool to facilitate doing that. I use small slivers of hardwood being held with needle nose pliers to do that. Then I liberally coat the grooves and seals with silicone dielectric grease. That will help keep the grooves clean.