2000 ABS II , Bleeding (Front) Brakes - Replacing line off of master cylinder

[JJames]

My RDL seat put me higher and further back on the ST , or one could say- the handle bars are lower and further forward. So I got a set ROX 3,5 Risers. Tried them on to see what more I needed to make them work. After some rerouting , It turns out only the brake hose off the master cylinder needs to be longer , by about 6" .
Anyway that hose runs into the brake modulator(?) box . I have no experience with dealing these. How does one go about bleeding ? As if it wasn't there ? Thanks

 

[Uncle Phil]

IIRC, there is a 'clip' on the hose down on the forks that if you loosen it you can get a little more length.
But probably not 6 inches.
The bleeding instructions are probably on this website somewhere and in the Honda Service Manual.

 

[JJames]

IIRC, there is a 'clip' on the hose down on the forks that if you loosen it you can get a little more length.
But probably not 6 inches.
The bleeding instructions are probably on this website somewhere and in the Honda Service Manual.

The hose runs pretty strait now (dosent go though the forks like it did) . I would have thought 3,5 longer hose would have done the trick , but no. Geometri -strange stuff.

 

[Uncle Phil]

Yeah, 'hose stretchers' are not a very good option ...

 

[Smudgemo]

I replaced mine last fall to compensate for the helibars I added and I used a reverse bleeder to avoid all the goofing around getting air out of the system. It actually worked really well because it probably only had to move air up out of that one line rather than down through all the plumbing.
I don't recall how much plastic I removed, but I'm pretty sure it was at least a few pieces because that lower bolt is hard to get to. I also don't recall for sure that I did it, but pulling the lower end first and elevating it should keep the mess down. Cover everything really well to protect paint..

 

[JJames]

I replaced mine last fall to compensate for the helibars I added and I used a reverse bleeder to avoid all the goofing around getting air out of the system. It actually worked really well because it probably only had to move air up out of that one line rather than down through all the plumbing.
I don't recall how much plastic I removed, but I'm pretty sure it was at least a few pieces because that lower bolt is hard to get to. I also don't recall for sure that I did it, but pulling the lower end first and elevating it should keep the mess down. Cover everything really well to protect paint..

Thanks , Thinking about it, that might be the best way to do it.

 

[JJames]

I replaced mine last fall to compensate for the helibars I added and I used a reverse bleeder to avoid all the goofing around getting air out of the system. It actually worked really well because it probably only had to move air up out of that one line rather than down through all the plumbing.
I don't recall how much plastic I removed, but I'm pretty sure it was at least a few pieces because that lower bolt is hard to get to. I also don't recall for sure that I did it, but pulling the lower end first and elevating it should keep the mess down. Cover everything really well to protect paint..

Ok , think I might try and replace the front master brake line to modulator now. I bought a 60 cm ( 24") Goodrich line . It dosent have the exact same bends on the banjo fittings , but I hope close enough to work.
I'm curious - was your clutch line long enough ? Where there any other problems you ran into when installing helibars?
I mounted the 3,5" Rox risers with the stock handlebar ,for a test . I rerouted the clutch line , Throttle and choke wires . Only the front brake line seemed to be to short. Hope thats the case !

 

[Smudgemo]

I decided to start playing around with ergonomics now that I have a second bike, so I machined up some 70mm riser blocks to go with the Heli-bars, and the clutch line seems long enough assuming lack of tension on the line is a sufficient indicator. None of the other controls seemed to be a problem either, but I might still buy a braided line with a few extra inches of length to be sure there isn't any strain, and because it seems likely to be the original line.

 

[JJames]

Thanks -Thats good , will post results !

 

[Larry Fine]

My 1100 came with the original, double-jointed Helibars, but they were still a tad too low for me.

When I added 3" risers, I was able to re-route the cables, hoses, and wires so everything reaches.

Unless, of course, the previous owner had already replaced them when the Helibars were installed.

 

[JJames]

It finally stopped raining so i got to take my new improved ST for a 200k test ride . All is good. The 3'5 inch Roxs risers + RDL seat complemented each other - At least for me . The Goodridge brake line i bought , 24" - I might have got away with a 22" line. Other than that - none of cables , lines or wires where too short , but as mentioned , had to be rerouted. The reverse bleeding also worked very well - no mess.

 

[Smudgemo]

I dig that blue.

 

[Uncle Phil]

I dig that blue.

To me, that's the prettiest color that the ST1100 ever came in.
The gold accents really pop 'in person'.
Unfortunately, we never got that color here in the States.