2004-2009 final drive inspection and oil change

[dduelin]

I'm doing baseline major service items on the new-to-me 2007 R1200RT. I have ridden it about 700 miles so far and am really enjoying it.

Today was the final drive oil change and driveshaft spline lube. A FD oil change is an item that BMW originally thought would not have to be done for the life of the final drive and there was no drain provided. Problem is the life of the final drive on too many 2004-2009 R1200s was awfully short by any standard with a too-large percentage failing under 50,000 miles. This bike has 89,xxx miles on it and while it received regular dealer service this item had not been done in 30,000 miles, some 6,000 miles beyond the now recommended 24,000 mile service. The way the FD is partially disconnected and drops down 90 degrees down to drain the oil out of the oil fill port requires the end of the drive shaft to be popped off the FD spline. After draining and reassembly the FD oil is filled through the port that holds the wheel speed sensor.

I approached this job with some trepidation. Final drives and driveshafts in any machine, particularly BMWs of this design, don't last forever and this inspection could result in news that this used bike needs the $$ driveshaft replaced or either relief for another two years/24,000 miles. The news was good in that the pinion bearing and drive shaft U-joints passed inspection and the FD seals are not seeping or leaking. It's clean and quiet. Yay! I knew a used BMW would bring some risk for repairs. I did ride this bike twice prior to purchase but still........

When I was putting the tools and materials together I smiled to myself that I would be using Honda branded nitrile gloves and Honda Moly 60 paste on a BMW. I already purchased a liter of BMW branded synthetic 75w90 gear oil for the transmission oil change I did a couple of days ago and there was about 180cc of this oil left for the final drive change. I had some Honda 80w90 shaft drive oil on the shelf and was going to use that but there was just enough of the BMW stuff left over.

The next item will be a valve adjustment and throttle body synchronization. The valves are easy to do with screw and locknut arrangement but I will have to borrow a TwinMax for the synch.

 

[Tor]

Oh yeah. I drop down the pumpkin and clean / change oil / re-lube every 6K as well, along with engine oil change. Bonding time.

 

[dduelin]

Tor,

There was some water standing in the swing arm. Not much, maybe 1/8" deep under the U joint. Before reassembly I cleaned up everything and according to the service manual I applied a waterproof boat trailer bearing grease around the rubber boot where it fits into the FD and the swing arm. Prior to this service I have ridden a 100 miles or so in the rain and washed the bike just prior to taking this apart but was careful not to spray water directly on the boot. The bellows on the transmission end appears intact and has the zip tire closure on it.

Is this water of little concern at this time, like replace the boot next time? On the 190,000 mile project RT I replaced both boots but even the new ones didn't seem super pliable and fit kind of loosely into the respective openings. This one was the same way.

 

[Tor]

Tor,

There was some water standing in the swing arm. Not much, maybe 1/8" deep under the U joint. Before reassembly I cleaned up everything and according to the service manual I applied a waterproof boat trailer bearing grease around the rubber boot where it fits into the FD and the swing arm. Prior to this service I have ridden a 100 miles or so in the rain and washed the bike just prior to taking this apart but was careful not to spray water directly on the boot. The bellows on the transmission end appears intact and has the zip tire closure on it.

Is this water of little concern at this time, like replace the boot next time? On the 190,000 mile project RT I replaced both boots but even the new ones didn't seem super pliable and fit kind of loosely into the respective openings. This one was the same way.

Dave,

I would replace it next go-around. I replaced my rear boot at about 15K. Had a hole in it, because the joint had rubbed on the inside.



When I got the new boot, it was reinforced on the inside with a steel wire loop going all the way around inside one of the boot folds, I assume to keep it from touching or collapsing onto the joint.

I have never seen water or rust after dropping down the rear. I still cover the entire shaft in ACF50 before I lift up the rear and re-engaging the spline.