2004 ST1300 Rear Caliper Removal

japer37

japer37

Joined
Jan 29, 2006
Messages
5
Location
Springfield Township, Ohio
Bike
2004 Goldwing
I got a flat rear tire. I am trying to remove the wheel and the caliper. I removed the bolt that secures the caliper to the frame, but am unable to pull it out of the rotor. There seems to be a pin or something keeping the caliper from coming out. The rotor does not have ridges that could cause the brake pads from allowing the caliper from coming out of the rotor.
Can someone give me any suggestions as to how to remove?
J.P. in Cinci
 
japer37 said:
Thanks for the link.
No, I did not remove the axle. I was afraid to try to take the axle out without first removing the caliper...
Click to expand...

Yup, there ya go... the stopper bolt and the axle need to be removed before the caliper and bracket will slide enough to clear the rotor and rim.
 
Can I ask a dumb question please? There is a bolt that holds the two parts of the caliper together, toward the back of the bike/caliper on the left side. When I remove this the two parts of the caliper slide apart. Is there another bolt that should be removed to take the caliper off? Is that the stopper bolt you reference?
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tlartist said:
Can I ask a dumb question please? There is a bolt that holds the two parts of the caliper together, toward the back of the bike/caliper on the left side. When I remove this the two parts of the caliper slide apart. Is there another bolt that should be removed to take the caliper off? Is that the stopper bolt you reference?
Posted via Mobile Device
Click to expand...

The only two fasteners that need to be removed in order to slide the caliper off the rear rotor are the brake stop bolt (reference #10 of swingarm microfiche) and the rear axle. The caliper stays assembled to the caliper mounting bracket and simply slides up and off.
 
Byron said:
The only two fasteners that need to be removed in order to slide the caliper off the rear rotor are the brake stop bolt (reference #10 of swingarm microfiche) and the rear axle. The caliper stays assembled to the caliper mounting bracket and simply slides up and off.
Click to expand...

Bump, great thread....very helpful......thanks to the contributors....
 
Byron said:
The only two fasteners that need to be removed in order to slide the caliper off the rear rotor are the brake stop bolt (reference #10 of swingarm microfiche) and the rear axle. The caliper stays assembled to the caliper mounting bracket and simply slides up and off.
Click to expand...

I agree with Byron's protocol in the previous thread, with regard to rear caliper removal, when the goal is tire removal; however, if the goal is only to replace worn-out brake pads from the rear caliper, then tire and rear axle removal are not required. I just replaced the rear caliper pads on my 2004 ST1300 and only the following 3 bolts are required for complete caliper removal from the mounting bracket and off the rotor (without the need for rear axle removal):

1. forward caliper mounting bolt, requiring a 14mm socket (bolt head is exposed, counterclockwise to loosen).
2. rear caliper pad-retaining bolt (pin), requiring a 6mm allen wrench (rubber cap must first be removed to expose the bolt head, counterclockwise to loosen) - note, this is the only bolt required for removal of the pads - the other two bolts secure the caliper to the mounting bracket.
3. bottom caliper mounting bolt, requiring a 12mm open-end wrench (the 12mm head is located in the middle of the bolt, counterclockwise to loosen). I wish someone would have told me about this unique bolt.

Although only removal of bolt #2 above (requiring a 6mm allen wrench) is required for pad removal, removal of bolts #1 & #3 above allow one to access the 3 caliper pistons for cleaning with the dot 4 brake fluid, prior to retracting the pistons to allow room for insertion of the new pads.
 
Thanks for clueing me in on bolt #3. The job is still way more of a pain than it needs to be, but at least I'm no longer stumped on how to remove the caliper.
 
rgehant said:
I agree with Byron's protocol in the previous thread, with regard to rear caliper removal, when the goal is tire removal; however, if the goal is only to replace worn-out brake pads from the rear caliper, then tire and rear axle removal are not required. I just replaced the rear caliper pads on my 2004 ST1300 and only the following 3 bolts are required for complete caliper removal from the mounting bracket and off the rotor (without the need for rear axle removal):

1. forward caliper mounting bolt, requiring a 14mm socket (bolt head is exposed, counterclockwise to loosen).
2. rear caliper pad-retaining bolt (pin), requiring a 6mm allen wrench (rubber cap must first be removed to expose the bolt head, counterclockwise to loosen) - note, this is the only bolt required for removal of the pads - the other two bolts secure the caliper to the mounting bracket.
3. bottom caliper mounting bolt, requiring a 12mm open-end wrench (the 12mm head is located in the middle of the bolt, counterclockwise to loosen). I wish someone would have told me about this unique bolt.

Although only removal of bolt #2 above (requiring a 6mm allen wrench) is required for pad removal, removal of bolts #1 & #3 above allow one to access the 3 caliper pistons for cleaning with the dot 4 brake fluid, prior to retracting the pistons to allow room for insertion of the new pads.
Click to expand...

The rear caliper pad-retaining bolt (pin) is a 5mm allen wrench.
.02
 
rgehant said:
I agree with Byron's protocol in the previous thread, with regard to rear caliper removal, when the goal is tire removal; however, if the goal is only to replace worn-out brake pads from the rear caliper, then tire and rear axle removal are not required. I just replaced the rear caliper pads on my 2004 ST1300 and only the following 3 bolts are required for complete caliper removal from the mounting bracket and off the rotor (without the need for rear axle removal):

1. forward caliper mounting bolt, requiring a 14mm socket (bolt head is exposed, counterclockwise to loosen).
2. rear caliper pad-retaining bolt (pin), requiring a 6mm allen wrench (rubber cap must first be removed to expose the bolt head, counterclockwise to loosen) - note, this is the only bolt required for removal of the pads - the other two bolts secure the caliper to the mounting bracket.
3. bottom caliper mounting bolt, requiring a 12mm open-end wrench (the 12mm head is located in the middle of the bolt, counterclockwise to loosen). I wish someone would have told me about this unique bolt.

Although only removal of bolt #2 above (requiring a 6mm allen wrench) is required for pad removal, removal of bolts #1 & #3 above allow one to access the 3 caliper pistons for cleaning with the dot 4 brake fluid, prior to retracting the pistons to allow room for insertion of the new pads.
Click to expand...


I believe if you were to review your service manual, it would indicated removing only the 5mm pin pad to remove the brake pads.
The correct method to Clean the caliper, would be to withdraw the axle and stopper bolt, then separate the bracket from the caliper housing, and do the job correctly.
The (2) bolts that you are referring to are NOT meant to be removed, The front 12 mm head bolt is what holds the dowel that the caliper floats on, and the rear bolt, that use suggest using an open end wrench on is also a dowel, not meant to be removed. These are steel bolts that attach to the aluminum bracket, by removing them you risk both damage to the bolt and the mounting bracket.
I would urge you to do the job as the service manual indicates to save wear and tear on your equipment.
.02
 
Igofar said:
I believe if you were to review your service manual, it would indicated removing only the 5mm pin pad to remove the brake pads.
The correct method to Clean the caliper, would be to withdraw the axle and stopper bolt, then separate the bracket from the caliper housing, and do the job correctly.
The (2) bolts that you are referring to are NOT meant to be removed, The front 12 mm head bolt is what holds the dowel that the caliper floats on, and the rear bolt, that use suggest using an open end wrench on is also a dowel, not meant to be removed. These are steel bolts that attach to the aluminum bracket, by removing them you risk both damage to the bolt and the mounting bracket.
I would urge you to do the job as the service manual indicates to save wear and tear on your equipment.
.02
Click to expand...
Best info regarding this process. Thanks for taking the time,
 
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