2005 ST1300 Throttle Body Insulator Clamp Removal Issues

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Removing the throttle body insulator clamps to replace the fuel injector sub harness. Each cylinder has an upper and lower clamp. Is it only necessary to loosen the upper clamp on each of the cylinders to remove the TB ? I think I was initially looking at it incorrectly thinking I had to remove both the upper and lower clamps.
i was able to easily loosen the clamps on cylinders 3 and 4 from the side underneath the main frame rail but cylinders 1 and 2 appear harder to reach and are set pointing straight back to the rear of the bike. I found an old thread that mentioned using either a 16" or 20" #2 phillips so I'll have to take another look at it and see if there is a position I can get it from. Love to find out it's that easy vs. trying to concoct something crazy with all my 1/4" drive fittings and a JIS head. I currently have a set of regular length JIS screwdrivers but nothing nearly that long. I am waiting on an order of 1/4" JIS bits if I have to get a lot more creative. I've also lubed up the neck of the insulators with PB Blaster in advance to help make the TB removal easier.
Appreciate any suggestions from those that have dug in here before. Thanks.
 

Kevcules

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I haven't done it yet but I think you're on the right track. Lubricate just inside the lips of the hoses (where top clamp goes) so that the hoses separate from the metal spouts of the TB. They don't separate easy I hear, so lubing them first and maybe even using air around the lip of the hoses might help free them up.
The clamp bolt head should be oriented to be able to access from the back I think (some angle )with a long screwdriver or 1/4" extensions and socket. Make sure you line them up so they are easy to access if you ever go in there again.
I would also replace those hoses as they are probably hard as a rock with age.
Document and photograph your journey inside the depths of the ST and share with us what you see and find.
Others will chime in soon and be able to explain it to you in much better detail.
Good luck
 
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ckbmunch
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I have some 3/16" i.d. Tygon tubing on hand for when I finally get down there to replace the harness. Igofar already warned me about the the hoses being oval shaped after removal and not sealing well after. Hoping to avoid going back in here for quite a few years after this. I'll try and document things for the next person. Advice from those that have been here before has been really useful. Thanks.
 
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ckbmunch
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So it’s possible to simply thread it into place ? Trying to balance out a thorough cleaning and inspection after a mouse nest with not disturbing more wire and hose arrangements than I need to. Hate to go through all this just to find further issues after putting it all back together.
 

SupraSabre

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If you must remove the throttlebody, I did do a write up on how I removed mine. If I can't find it, I'll try to rewrite it. Also, the way to get to those screws, is with a flexible screw driver.
 

dduelin

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I removed the TB 10 years ago in this thread but I forget the details of the clamps securing the intake rubbers. Seems the clamps were oriented so I could get to them over or under the frame rails. I think two came off with the TB and the other two stayed on the cylinder intakes. The intake rubbers were still supple at 117,000 miles and I reused them with no issues. I sold the bike at 180,xxx miles.
 

Andrew Shadow

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I did do a write up on how I removed mine. If I can't find it, I'll try to rewrite it.
 

SupraSabre

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How Andrew finds these threads, I'll never know! :thumb:

One thing I did find, was where I pried up the TB when I have removed them (I think I've done three at least)

DSC05893-se.jpg

Also, along with the thread Andrew found, I found I only needed to remove the rear, right two bolts to the TB and the TB bracket. When reinstalling the TB, I used plumber's grease and put those two bolts in most of the way, but still had a little wiggle room to help seat them. Once seated, then I tightened up the TB insulator screws and then the two bolts.
 

Igofar

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You are right, I was able to squeeze the harness through without actually removing the TB. With the old harness removed I could do a better clean up and inspection. All the damage SEEMS to be isolated to the harness. Thanks again for saving me having to dig deeper.
IF you loosened any of the clamps, be sure to tighten them back correctly.
You DO NOT tighten these bands snug etc.
You need to measure the distance from the flats, and there are two different measurements.
Here are some pictures that Mike posted a while back that may help you.
:WCP1:
TB Insulator Tool 2.jpgTB Clamp Orientation.jpgTB Insulator Tool 1.jpg
 
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