2010 BMW R1200RT

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I am looking at a mint 2010 BMW R1200RT with 25,000 miles, this would be my first BMW if I decide to buy it. Can others comment on their reliability? Pros? Cons? I have had two ST1100's so this boxer engine is all new to me. Thanks!
 

toolman

Smiling Every Day
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Silverdale, Washington
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'21 R 1250RT
I had a 2009 for 25,000 reliable miles over two and a half years. I know the '10 came with some changes in the motor (specifically the heads), but I believe the rest was pretty much unchanged. I rode the snot out of that bike and never had a single problem. I know there are folks out there that had issues with their bike, but I can't honestly say I have ever met any of them.

Pros (My Opinion):
- Oil changes are easy
- Valve adjustments are easy
- Rear wheel removal for tire changes is easy
- I found the bike to be comfortable and easy to ride
- Gas mileage (for me) was 50+ mpg

Cons:
- Headlight bulb replacement requires flexibility and a high threshold for pain
- If you prefer dealer service, it is pricier than other dealers in my experience
- The gas tank cover is plastic and a magnetic tank bag will not work

As with almost all things, you will have to decide how much you enjoy the ride. I enjoyed the comfort, agility and power. I did not enjoy changing the headlight bulbs.

25,000 miles is just about broken in for a boxer. Mine burned oil for the first 15,000 and then stopped. By the time it had 30k it was not using a drop of oil.

Either way, good luck!
 

Bug Dr.

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I have a 2012 RT that has been a great bike. Same motor as the 2010. Mine does burn a little oil still (17000 miles) but it hasn't been a real issue as long as you remember to check it. I had to get used to checking oil levels after owning an ST and never having a need to really check.

I'm selling mine because I don't need two bikes right now. So, if that sale doesn't go through and you are interested in a 2012 model, let me know.
Mike
 
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I've got a 2011 RT which is terrific. There are no wide-spread mechanical issues except that there is a recall for a fuel pump cracking/leaking problem that includes your year.model, I think. It's not a major fix but should be done by the previous owner or you. There is a DIY fix (see "beemer boneyard" site) but should only take a dealer a half-hour to perform and since it's a recall, it should be free.

I came to my boxer from the ST1300 and an FJR and it's a different experience. So is dealing with a BMW service department. I've found mine to be very competent and, yes, a bit more pricy than a Honda/Yamaha shop but that is mostly down to the parts costs.

Have a peek at www.bmwmoa.com (BMW Owners of America) and BMWsporttouring.com for lots of information. Neither is as good as this site, of course. ;)

pete
 

Bug Dr.

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pepollock;1723289 I've found mine to be very competent and said:
www.bmwmoa.com[/url] (BMW Owners of America) and BMWsporttouring.com for lots of information. Neither is as good as this site, of course. ;)

pete
I've had a very, very good experience with my local dealer and their service department. Maybe I'm just lucky. As for parts, have you ever bought Honda parts? They aren't exactly cheap either. So far, the service I've had done on my BMW was very reasonable, if not down right cheap.... i.e. Valve check for $70. Go have the valves checked on the ST at a dealer and report back here that BMW ownership is more expensive than Honda.

Go ride the bike and see what you think. It does take some getting used to, especially the motor. The ST is so smooth it spoils you and will make almost any bike feel rough and unrefined. I love the boxer now that I've ridden it for two years. The handling, brakes and ergos suit me better on the RT than the ST. Also, I like the fact that my RT is 150 lbs lighter than the ST with a lower COG. It makes a big difference in parking lots and the garage.

Ride what you like and enjoy it as often as you can.
Mike
 
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Per my horror experience - IF you hear ANY knocking at all in the engine ( I don't mean valve clicking ) DON'T BUY IT , especially if it is predetonation, mine was destroying itself before only 6K miles ! Not to mention 2 1/2 years of hell trying to get the dealer & BMW to fix a brand new bike he sold to me & they never did fix it.
Read thread "2014 BMW R 1200 RT" , date 1/18/2014 for more input.
 
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You might want to do a search for BMW final drive issues.
 
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DaveM
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I never did end up test riding it. After looking at everything, insurance, monthly payment, etc, I decided to pass on the bike. Thanks for all your input, it is much appreciated!
 

toolman

Smiling Every Day
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Silverdale, Washington
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'21 R 1250RT
In an effort to clarify my earlier thoughts on service costs, I wanted to make the point that my experience at the dealership was always positive. I had th ebike serviced at two different locations (one in So Cal and one in western WA) and was always happy with the profesisonalism and treatment I received.

My experience with service costs has been different than what others are saying. I have tried to research costs for different makes in an attempt to decide which bike to buy. The routine service costs associated with BMW upkeep are more expensive. Not excessively expensive, but measurably more for comparable service. My big issue comes into play when you have to do something that is corrective vice preventive. For example, I hit a rock riding around Mt St Helens a few years ago and wound up having to replace the front rim. The cost was over $950 - and all I had them do was remount the tire. I did all the other work myself.

To be honest, I don't think this is a deal breaker, but it could be a factor for some. I have since moved on to an FJR, but would give the RT consideration again in the future. It was a wonderful ride.
 

Appalachian

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I had th ebike serviced at two different locations (one in So Cal and one in western WA) and was always happy with the profesisonalism and treatment I received.
Ride West and South Sound in Seattle are both great shops, same owner.
 
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Two things need to be clarified. The final drive issue's are from earlier years, not the 2010 and later. What final drive issue are out there on the later bikes is very rare. Also comparing a valve check between the ST1300 and an RT is apple and oranges. A bad day, the RT will take 20 minutes to check, the ST is a bit more complex.

I sold my '12 RT after 42K miles because of upcoming repair cost's. Already spent over a grand due to the main oil seal leaking. On the BMW sites, they will tell you that if you have a premium bike, expect to pay a premium price for repairs. A fair amount of those people get a new bike when the warranty is up. A clutch will run $1,500+. Some will run 200K miles without repair, a lot do not.

Mark
 

Appalachian

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A clutch will run $1,500+. Some will run 200K miles without repair, a lot do not.
This changes significantly with the 2014 - it's now a wet clutch which will last much longer under normal use (regular friction zone use), and it's positioned in a way where it's no longer a 6 hour job (due to access) - now a 2 hour job at most.
 
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You might want to do a search for BMW final drive issues.
The final drive problems have been pretty much eliminated in recent years. Not saying it can't happen but it has become rare if the maintenance schedule has been followed. BMW failed to address the issue for quite a while but maybe after replacing a bunch of drives under warranty, they got some new engineering on it. I don't worry about mine.

And BTW, the ST has a history of "driven flange" bearing failures in the rear end. It didn't cause the catastrophic failures like the BMWs but did need attention. Don't know if that is still a problem. My ST was a 2003 and it ate two bearing sets in its life with me.

Enjoy the RT!

pete
 
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