24 pin connector

Joined
Feb 3, 2023
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2
Age
49
Location
Idaho
Hi all. Im trying to figure out how to remove 2 pins from the 24 pin connector. Two of the wires have been cut very close to the plug itself and i do not have enough wire to splice in. Any help would be appreciated. Its the two wires below the green/black wire One wire (Lg) is for the horn and other wire (Lb) is for the right then signal 0C9115A4-BF34-42E0-83EE-BF4B8D631917.jpeg
 

Mr.E

Steve
Joined
Jun 25, 2022
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194
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North Devon UK
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Boss Hoss & ST1300
For just 2 wires, I'd by-pass the 24 pin connector completely and just connect the 2 wires directly with a couple of Bullet or Spade connectors.

Does look a bit messy there but difficult to see if that stuff is protective wax or possibly corrosion, might be worth looking into a new 24 pin AMP male/female connector?
 
Joined
Oct 17, 2014
Messages
919
Location
Tacoma, Wa
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2010 ST1300
Here’s a tutorial:
 
OP
OP
Joined
Feb 3, 2023
Messages
2
Age
49
Location
Idaho
For just 2 wires, I'd by-pass the 24 pin connector completely and just connect the 2 wires directly with a couple of Bullet or Spade connectors.

Does look a bit messy there but difficult to see if that stuff is protective wax or possibly corrosion, might be worth looking into a new 24 pin AMP male/female connector?
Thanks for that idea. There is no corrosion, it is just wax. Was trying to keep it as clean as possible and wasnt sure if there was an easy way to pop the pin out.
 

ST Gui

240Robert
Site Supporter
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Sep 12, 2011
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9,284
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SF-Oakland CA
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ST1300, 2010
Was trying to keep it as clean as possible and wasnt sure if there was an easy way to pop the pin out.
Somebody somewhere may have a bespoke tool for a given connector to "pop" a pin out. I've remove several after studying how they're held it. The most common method I've see is a raised "barb" on a pin that locks into the plastic. Playing withe several picks and probes sometimes gets it done but can distort or crack a connector. Some get brittle with age.

What's worked most reliably is a thin stiff metal shim just wide enough to fill most of the interior of a connector's "cell". This depresses the barb and the pin is easily removed. YCMV.

Where there's room I think a heavier gauge jumper is the ticket. Adding heavy gauge wire to additional grounds is also an option.
 
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