82K and possibly the first valve lash adjustment for this ST1100

[TMF]

I've had my 82K miles ST1100 for only a matter of weeks and started on valve lash a couple of nights ago. To my surprise there were a number of odd sized shims (.221, .223, .218) in the right bank. Could it be they were factory shims installed at the time of manufacture and this is the first adjustment? If so, that's a testament to an even wearing valve train. I read somewhere that on a well designed engine valve seat recession was countered by calculated wear elsewhere in the valvetrain so as to minimize adjustment.

Being new to ST valve adjustments I have a couple of observations. First, it's a pleasure and easy compared to other systems with chain drive gears. Having the cylinders out where you can see everything is fantastic. I'm not sure how you can foul this job up. Set TDC, check the cam indicator notch, mark the gears with a little paint and pull the cams. The only minor problem was that my magnet would not pull the buckets. I used electrical tape to pad some channel locks and that rig easily pulled the buckets with no scratching. I am accustomed to finding odd sized shims on the Internet but in this case I could not find 2.17, 2.16, etc. that I would have preferred. No biggie because a single 5 pack of 2.15's puts the right pair of cylinders well within spec.

PS I just found this link with Honda part numbers to odd sized shims - Valve Adjustment Tips ( ST1100 ) * (st-riders.net) 2.18mm shim on order!!

 

[Larry Fine]

You might as well replace the timing belt while you've got it apart. It's due at 90K miles.

 

[dwalby]

You might as well replace the timing belt while you've got it apart. It's due at 90K miles.

FWIW, they're totally unrelated jobs. There's nothing in the valve adjustment process that gives a head start to doing the timing belt replacement.

 

[STFlips]

except maybe tupperware removal?

 

[Erdoc48]

FWIW, they're totally unrelated jobs. There's nothing in the valve adjustment process that gives a head start to doing the timing belt replacement.

it likely wouldn’t be a bad idea if your bike is at 82K and at least 20 years old, it’s not bad to do and not too bad of a job in terms of difficulty.

 

[dwalby]

except maybe tupperware removal?

nope.

valve adjustment only requires the side panel access covers to be removed, and the tiny crankshaft access cover on the front cover.

timing belt requires removing the front wheel, forks, and then the front cover(s) in various pieces to get to the timing belt.

 

[Ron]

"... I'm not sure how you can foul this job up. Set TDC, check the cam indicator notch, mark the gears with a little paint and pull the cams. "

The original poster mentioned pulling the cams. How can you pull the cams without removing the timing belt?

I've never changed the belt or removed cams. I have checked the clearances myself by removing the covers and rolling the motor over to get the piston to top dead center.

 

[paulcb]

"... I'm not sure how you can foul this job up. Set TDC, check the cam indicator notch, mark the gears with a little paint and pull the cams. "

The original poster mentioned pulling the cams. How can you pull the cams without removing the timing belt?

I've never changed the belt or removed cams. I have checked the clearances myself by removing the covers and rolling the motor over to get the piston to top dead center.

You can pull the cams on an ST11 without touching the belt... they don't directly engage the timing belt pully. The gear on the back side of the TB pulley drives the cam gears.

 

[ReSTored]

You can pull the cams on an ST11 without touching the belt...

Yes, who ever designed the 1100 made adjusting shims dead simple, relative to other engines where cambelts or chains have to be messed with.

 

[TMF]

You might as well replace the timing belt while you've got it apart. It's due at 90K miles.

Yes, have Gates 325 on hand and ordering misc. parts.

 

[TMF]

"... I'm not sure how you can foul this job up. Set TDC, check the cam indicator notch, mark the gears with a little paint and pull the cams. "

The original poster mentioned pulling the cams. How can you pull the cams without removing the timing belt?

I've never changed the belt or removed cams. I have checked the clearances myself by removing the covers and rolling the motor over to get the piston to top dead center.

There's no need to pull the belt to do a valve lash adjustment. Mark the gears at the end of the cams with paint spots and make sure they align when you reassemble.

 

[Ron]

At 104,000 miles, my clearance were all within spec. Since I didn't need to change anything, I buttoned it up and moved on. If I had to change shims, I guess I would know that info.