A boot for the SMC boot?

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More years ago than I care to admit, when I was a Penniless Student Oaf, there was a company called Vivo Sport and they made a thing called the Grunge Guard. It was a (patented!) rubber boot that completely enclosed a bicycle's rear derailleur from hanger bolt to tensioner pivot, and was supposed to keep out the mud and SKOG that the rear mech would pick up from mountain biking (or commuting, or any kind of riding in Britain, really). I bought one and over the months I found it did an excellent job of 1) not quite keeping all the grunge out of the parallelogram, and 2) not quite letting it drain out again. Of course, as a bicycle mechanic I should have known better than to just leave it in place and never check it, though I can't really believe I would have done that. I was probably too busy with exams.

The long and short of it was that my fancy* Shimano derailleur wore out much too quickly; I moved on to better† things, and I think I threw that rubber boot in the bucket.

Having recently splurged on a new SMC that has, thankfully, solved¥ the brake problems that sidelined my bike for so long, and having seen the utter mank in the old SMC when I took it to bits, I got to wondering how I might prevent it rusting all over again. The late, great bicycle designer, Mike Burrows, described how bearings in hubs and pedals and cranks tended to wear out owing to an "excess of environment" – which is exactly what the Grunge Guard sought to ameliorate. So I look at my shiny new SMC and I think, "y'know, that little rubber boot is the only protection the plunger and piston have against everything they'll encounter", and "why didn't Honda include a bleed nipple at the piston end?" and "why isn't all this made of out of stainless steel?" and "why is no-one making a pattern part?". I look at the old SMC, with its rubber boot now more than a little loose at the seams, and I think "well, quite".

It occurred to me that perhaps what the SMC needs is its own little mudguard, not so much a larger all-enclosing Grunge Guard but kind of two-thirds of one. Something flexible and specifically shaped but free draining. Did anyone ever try making one? I never saw it mentioned anywhere, so I went prototyping yesterday with chopped up inner tube. I freely admit I'm either reinventing the wheel or, as a complete newbie who thinks she knows better, inventing a solution to which there is no particular problem – except to say that it's blindingly obvious that a) the SMC is a bit of a long term liability, and b) after 45,000 miles (and more importantly perhaps, many years) of unknown quality, my bike's SMC piston was so very nearly completely seized I'm amazed the bike got through its MOT test last year (a month or so before I bought it). I'll post the evidence on my other thead in due course, just for the heck of it.


Perhaps I am inventing a solution no-one needs, and that the best option is to inject silicone grease into the boot using a blunt needle. Seems a fine and dandy idea as long as it doesn't ultimately cause moisture to gather where it can't drain out.

* insofar as my PSO status allowed
† much
¥ grateful thanks to jfheath's colour-coded article on the bleed process
 
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jfheath

John Heath
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A noble concept, but actually the boot does a pretty good job of keeping the water out. Providing it isn't disturbed, or if it is, the boot is replaced properly - a feat which I find particularly difficult to perform without first removing the bracket which bolts to the upper fork leg mount. The boot needs quite a hefty shove in order to make the circular spring compress as it gets over the lip of the narrower section of the bore and seats on top of the circlip. At the same time, you have to be certain that you do not tear the rubber boot itself.

In a lot if situations it appears that the corrosion and damage comes from within the SMC cylinder itself. This is due to 'wet' brake fluid and the way in which old fluid manages to deteriorate into a crystallised gunge. Brake fluid becomes too wet to remain effective after 2 years. It absorbs moisture even when the bike is not in use. This behaviour is time related, not mileage related. Some of us replace fluid every 12-18 months max. Proper flushing and exercising the SMC for the full length of its stroke when the new fluid is going in are essential in keeping the brake system healthy.
 
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Some guys have posted that they pack silicone paste - aka brake caliper lube - inside the OEM rubber boot. This adds a layer of protection to keep water out but does nothing to preserve the SMC from the corrosion that starts within as John pointed out.

The problem is not really with the SMC corroding, it is with us lazy riders not doing routine maintenance. Maybe we should do a poll to find out how long SMC's last if folks change the brake juice every year. How long should we expect this part to last? I've watched my auto mechanic friend replacing frozen calipers on cars that are far less than 10 years old. The only major difference is that cars are used year round, especially in winter slush w/ snow melting compounds and most of us tend to avoid that kind of corrosion inducing stuff on our bikes.
 

jfheath

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Sadlsor

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I have to agree with John, and *mostly* with @SMSW. The kaput SMC is seen nearly every time one of us finds a "Great Buy!" on a low-mileage ST1300. As an example, I submit my very own 2008 ST1300A with 6300 original miles, purchased by me in 2020. I replaced my SMC within weeks of riding it home, it did not act up immediately.
And therein lies the rub... low-mileage, on a bike that's been effectively out of production since 2012 (I guess I'll get pushback from the police bike owners, and some continentals that were shipped later ones) means we've found a bike that hasn't been ridden in a while, so the brakes haven't been used, and the brake fluid hasn't been changed regularly, frequently, properly or maybe at all.
So that's where I'll depart from full and unequivocal agreement with SMSW, as when he says "The problem is not really with the SMC corroding, it is with us lazy riders not doing routine maintenance." I think it's more accurate to specify "CORRECT" routine maintenance, which will lead to the SMC internals corroding. They seldom simply wear out, if maintained properly.
This particular implementation of a Linked Braking System, used only on the ST1300 and the CBR1100XX to the best of my knowledge, has a very specific bleed sequence, which when followed precisely, should preserve the integrity of the secondary master cylinder piston and bore.
This post has been not been reviewed or approved by anyone, including the Admin and Moderators of this forum, American Honda Motor Company, Motorcycle Mechanics International, or my friends and family, and the representation of this opinion is not to imply that it is superior to any other opinion.
But I AM impressed by @Arellcat and her use of diacritics and superscripts, which are seldom used here.
 
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This particular implementation of a Linked Braking System, used only on the ST1300 and the CBR1100XX to the best of my knowledge,
And the VFR800 from 1998 to 2012 or so. Just like my "other" bike...no ABS but it has all the same "characteristics" of the ST1300 system.IMG_2832.JPG
 

Sadlsor

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My bad!
You are SO right.
I've owned 2 of the 3, and I knew better. The Blackbird didn't have ABS either.
 
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I have had a lot of VFRs and have never had an issue with the SMC on those . No idea why other then the brake fluid was flushed every spring on all of them . I am not sure they are the same part but have a couple extra ones in my shop and will inspect them over the next couple days maybe .
 
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I think it's more accurate to specify "CORRECT" routine maintenance....
Not to split hairs, Mark, but there is no point doing maintenance if it's not done correctly. (E.g. quickly change the pads doing nothing more than push the (dirty pistons back in their bores), slap the new pads in the calipers and put everything back together. Pfui!!!!!!!!!)
 

Sadlsor

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Yeah, I should have been more clear.
I was referring specifically to the brake-bleeding maintenance, as the sequence is often done incorrectly or incompletely.
Many shops, if not most (my opinion) won't be as thorough or precise as, let's say, @Igofar or @aniwack or @jfheath or others of us who have learned the proper way.
The numbers of failed / neglected SMCs we read about here are proof of that.
Even with the bikes that have been ridden regularly, leaving old fluid in the piston or chamber has been shown to wreck them to the point of being unserviceable, so it's not exclusive to the bikes that have sat for a couple years or more.
Thanks for helping me clear it up.
 
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