ABS and non ABS brake pad.

[longerone]

I changed both my front/rear brake pads(OEM) about 6000KM ago, and to my surprise the back brakes make a loud noise when braking. The noise get loudest when comming to a final stop. I checked Amazon and all brake pads are for ABS, are they the same for non ABS? as my bike is non ABS.
Is this brake pad life(6000KM) normal for OEM brake pads? The ABS brake pads avilable is EBC brand.
Thanks.

 

[Mellow]

No difference between ABS and non-ABS brake pads at all.

My wing used to make noise w/new pads, it would go away after they wore a little.

 

[longerone]

No difference between ABS and non-ABS brake pads at all.

My wing used to make noise w/new pads, it would go away after they wore a little.

Thank you sir, but when i changed the brake pads, they were smooth as silk for the first 6000KM, and started the noise afterwards and is always loudest when comming to final stop. I will inspect the pads to see if worn out, but i expect a different kinda noise if pad is worn out and theres iron to rotor contact.

 

[Mellow]

Thank you sir, but when i changed the brake pads, they were smooth as silk for the first 6000KM, and started the noise afterwards and is always loudest when comming to final stop. I will inspect the pads to see if worn out, but i expect a different kinda noise if pad is worn out and theres iron to rotor contact.

I misread your post. It's odd that you would go through pads that quick but if you do, could be you have other problems like air in your SMC causing it to grab the rear brake more often.. let us know if the pads are worn.

 

[st1300r]

6000km (3700mi) that's way to short a life span for the pads.
After a normal ride assuming you're not in spirited mode how much hotter is the rear disk compared to the fronts? Is it hot or burn your you finger hot

 

[Tom Mac 04a]

As Carl noted...hot or BURN Hot?

The fingers can deal with a FAST touch up to about 220f... You''l respond quicker than you think pulling it off... if you can leave it on for a 1/2 sec or so the temp is below 180f.
If your pad is gone with that milage, something has to be wrong with with the brake... either SMC or binding for another reason and the rear should be BURNING HOT.

BTW, as my rule of thumb (other than pad life) I check my rotors every now and then on short trips...the fronts are generally are slightly cooler than rear and the rears may be very warm-slightly hot, but not to hot to touch. ( cooler than the pipes! )

But sometimes, its just crud, or maybe small stone or vibration plate , or glazed pads... I'd say check the pad first, you can just look in the back inwards and see if there's pad material.
If pads are ok, I'd start with a disassemble and clean and reinstall... maybe deglaze pads if needed.

 

[Gus1300]

How do you deglaze?

 

[Tom Mac 04a]

First , read below... 60% of noise is from shims.

Unless some one else has a better method... a simple few strokes of a file to remove the shiny glazed surface... then go thru breakin procedure.


BTW: good read, EBC - http://www.ebcbrakes.com/troubleshooting.shtml

 

[longerone]

Ok i will inspect and report as soon as im back in the northern parts(thats bikes location at the moment). Im in Lagos for now.

 

[longerone]

Theres a lot of free play on the rear brake pedal and i have to depress it all the way before engaging the rear brake engages, and it has a very weak braking power, not that i use it often.

 

[Tom Mac 04a]

If there's a lot of movment in the rear peddle, it may call for a Brake Bleeding to get air in system out....disc brakes are sort of self-adjusting ( way they work, fluid takes up the loss of pad material). I would say I get about an inch of movement and plenty of braking.

If the brake has no stopping power, maybe it is worn out, an inspection will tell.