Another timing belt question 2000 ST1100 non-abs

[tinboatcapt]

OK. MY bad. I fixated on getting the TB cover off and then discovered the crank index in in the cover.
It is 90F and humid so I'm not thinking clearly...can I find TDC and look for index marks on the cams to be sure I'm centered up before removing the belt?
Or...is it just easier to modify the cover and re-install it?

Bike has 66K miles, 25K in the last two years, all prairie riding (if you know what I mean) Forks are off and out for a set of TD cartridges so the front is relativly accessable. Clutch cover is not off or loosened.

After resurecting two BMW K100's I figured I could handle this...the jury is still out.
thanks for any advice,
Jim

 

[wjbertrand]

I think you can eyeball it close enough with the cam sprockets, assuming the belt is on correctly. Having said that, Honda only calls for an inpection at 60K and replacement at 90K. Unless you see something questionable, I'd put the cover back on and GO RIDE for another 24-25K.

 

[Ross Smith]

Hi Jim. I'm assuming you want to look things over while in there. Just be aware that the 1100 is a 0-tolerance valve clearance engine so make sure you don't move the timing pulleys while the belt is off.

The alignment marks you use to position the pulleys are not in the TB cover. They are part of the housing that everything sits in. The water pump forms a big part of it. The crankshaft pulley has 2 marks, the "T1" mark and a small punch mark. You will see matching marks in the housing for reference. The T1 mark aligns with a small arrow just above and to the left while the punch mark aligns with a projection you will see just to the right near the bottom of the housing. Both must be in alignment when the two upper cam pulleys are aligned with their respective marks. Move everything into position first, then release the tensioner and lock it away from the belt by re-tightening the bolt. You can remove the belt then.

Always turn the crankshaft clockwise from the front to position things.

Oh yes, while in there and with the belt off check the idler bearings freeplay, especially the small upper one bolted to the water pump. If you find any amount I strongly recommend you replace both idler bearings.

Lastly, if you're going to replace, (benchmark) the timing belt, then apply initial tension to the belt as follows, ONCE you've got everything put back together.
- loosen the tension bolt.
- turn the crankshaft 2 - 4 full turns and align the T1 Mark with the index mark again, making sure the punch mark also aligns with its corresponding projection.
- finally, turn the crankshaft 3 teeth further, hold it there and tighten the tensioner bolt.

Hope that helps. It's pretty easy to do actually.

Ross

 

[tinboatcapt]

I think it is OK. No smooth, shiny spots or cracks/scratches on the back, some movement in the belt at the tensioner when three teeth beyond T4 (estimated based on the RH Cam index). There is some pattern visable in the teeth that is uniform across the face of all the teeth looking like cording/reinforcing material. I believe the belt to be good. I simply thought that it would be a conveniennt time to check everything while the forks were gone.

And many thanks for the reassurance. My respect for all you Honda DIYers has gone up exponentially. I guess I was spoiled by the Beemers.
jim