Audiovox cruise control followup

[duSTy]

Just got home from my 2000 mile trip around the UP of Michigan. I used the Audiovox CC extensively the whole trip. It worked great. I never had it drop on my and it never failed to work. I used it at 80 and at 40. I did not use a vacuum canister and put my NAPA check valve as close to the map sensor as I could. I mounted my control on a small "L" bracket from the hardware store. I was hoping that if I tapped the clutch, it would disengage like on my last bike, a 1500 goldwing, but it didn't do it. I had to hit the brake to cancel the cruise.

I consider this one of the best accessories you can put on an ST.

Tom

 

[nm6r]

Tom, it should disengage when you pull in on the clutch. It's suppose to disengage with a high rev of rpm's. I have to review the write-up and update a few details. One of which is removing the jumper by the connector on the servo as I recall.

Ray

 

[duSTy]

I did remove the jumper. I did try pulling in the clutch, but didn't like the way the throttle/bike responded. Yes, it did rev up the engine, but I didn't like the way it feels, so I didn't do it anymore. I guess I'm used to the Goldwing, just slightly pull it in and it will release just as it does with the brake. So, it will work like this, but I didn't like it.

Tom

 

[usdefcon1]

I'm seriously thinking of this Cruise Control and I'd like to know how hard it was to install and how long it took you to install. Also was there any fabricating required to make this fit the ST1300. THanks.

 

[nm6r]

The only fabrication required is the mounting bracket for the switches and the vacuum canister. Dusty has found success without the vacuum canister. Two brackets in the kit require shortening.

Otherwise the kit comes with pretty much everything.

Ray

 

[duSTy]

I followed Ray's instructions pretty well. He showed pictures of how to cut the brackets that came with the kit. I had to cut off two brackets. I used a dremel, but a hacksaw would have worked. Very easy. The other tough point was getting the ball chain in the socket. I had to stick a screw driver and widen the slot out... also pretty easy. All in all it wasn't that hard. I did it a little at a time over a few days. I seemed to do more running around trying to find the check valve and cannister parts that I didn't use than anything. I just put the check valve very close to the map sensor and no cannister.

Without the pictures I may not have tried it (thanks again Ray). I'm extremely glad I did.

Tom