Banjo bolt unreachable

Joined
Apr 23, 2023
Messages
2
Age
71
Location
Maidenhead
I have a small leak from a banjo bolt on the SMC.
Replacing the washers as a first step seems easy - except it's impossible to get a socket with a torque wrench onto it. The wheel is in the way. Even with a long extension through the wheel then the rim and the RHS caliper is in the way.

Does anyone have suggestions on how to remove/replace banjo bolts on the LHS caliper?
Haynes manual just says "Replacement is the reverse of removal" after removing the caliper for overhaul.
I'm not sure that 34Nm torque will be possible without it attached to something solid.
I guess the first thing is to unbolt the caliper and try but hoping to do it in one go rather than leave the job half done.
Any ideas??

TIA
 

Jethro

R.I.P. - 2023/10/20
Rest In Peace
Joined
Mar 13, 2012
Messages
781
Location
Marmora,Ontario, Canada
Bike
2006 st1300
What is 34Nm. Inlbs/ft? Can a wrench ,box end etc fit in there.You are only tightening a crush washer. Go easy.l don’t see the need to torque every bolt,fitting.
try a nut bolt in vice to torque it to your spec.That by the seat of your pants is where you are going to be comfortable.
There is gunna come a time when a side of the road fix,&you don’t have a torque wrench or manual.
 

Igofar

Site Supporter
Joined
Jan 8, 2011
Messages
7,121
Location
Arizona
Bike
2023 Honda CT125A
I will not recommend a torque wrench for the banjo bolts on the brake or clutch systems, since MOST folks do not have a high quality, INCH POUND, or FOOT POUND, torque wrench, that has been calibrated correctly, or stored correctly in their tool box.
Most have a Harbor Freight $10 dollar wrench, stored at a high setting, and thrown in loosely with all their other tools.
The torque on most of these fasteners are only around 20 foot pounds or less, and torque wrenches are NOT accurate at the beginning of the settings etc.
An inch pound would be better, IF you must use a torque wrench etc.
These fasteners only require to be seated, then PALMED tight (snug, and then just a eighth or quarter turn more) and I would trust a person's hand over a questionable quality torque wrench.
Been replacing dozens of these clutch slave cylinders lately, and never had one leak using this technique.
 
OP
OP
Joined
Apr 23, 2023
Messages
2
Age
71
Location
Maidenhead
Great suggestions - thank you.
The leak occurred when I ran over a block in the road at 50mph - went flying but the bike is sooo heavy and stable it carried on in a straight line and I landed back in the saddle. Very lucky I wasn't sweeping the bike up into a waste bin - or spending a few days in hospital.
Both wheels were totally trashed.
IMG_3522.jpeg
The front wheel is missing a chunk of alloy and a bend in the rim scraped against the banjo bolt. I am hoping that new washers will cure the leak. If not, then a new replacement hose is over GBP100. Not sure I want to spend that on a 20 year old ST1300.

Guessing how much to tighten the banjo bolt may be good enough and I'lll probably try that because the alternative seems to be quite long-winded and complicated--> take both the calipers off; remove the front wheel; refasten the LHS caliper; replace the banjo washers so I can tighten them; remove the caliper again; replace the wheel; replace both the calipers... whew.

I'll try guesswork and check for any brake fluid after applying the brakes hard to see if any weeps out.

Thanks again one and all.
 

Igofar

Site Supporter
Joined
Jan 8, 2011
Messages
7,121
Location
Arizona
Bike
2023 Honda CT125A
I think you have bigger problems to worry about than your crush washers.
I’m guessing the rim damage probably took out the caliper slider pins, and probably the SMC as well.
Inspect everything!
 
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