battery not charging fully

[Andrew Shadow]

That is the way the bike came to me when I bought it.

If possible, maybe get a hold of the previous owner to find out why that was done. Maybe there is an underlying issue that they did this to work around that you might like to know about. It might help to avoid a surprise.

 

[Harry]

Hi, Harry and welcome from Alabama, we also know hot here.
I agree with @Andrew and believe you need to put that fusible link back to stock configuration.
There are several insights and photos on the bike's electrics in the Articles on the forum, and I'm sure someone will suggest getting the official Service Manual for your machine. They are still available.

Hi and thanks for the welcome. I will put back to stock for sure.

 

[Harry]

BTW, here's the part info for the 65A fuse in case the one inside the housing is shot. Maybe get a new cover (item 12) while you're at it, since the original has been cut open.

Thanks for this info. I will keep you posted.

 

[Al st1100]

I will get the proper parts for sure,, YAH That is the way the bike came to me when I bought it.

Depending on the spacing of the bolts a "Pal type fuse " should bolt in, available at an auto parts store. Push on spade terminals like the ones on your bike are not made for that kind of amperage. Bolt it in. After that make sure it's charging ( with a voltmeter)

 

[ST Gui]

So the 65A fusible link appears to be replaced by a 30A fuse in a holder with wire that's much smaller than it should be. Maybe even lower in capacity in that the fuse? The wire shows overheating yet the fuse didn't fail. So what is the typical current through that link?

The PAL fuse and holder would be very convenient to replace a blown link. In several bike over several thousands of miles with a few electrical mods — no links have failed. Theres always 'the one time...' scenario. The highly improbably situation for which the Perfect Boy Scout Rider would certainly be prepared.

But this mod probably took more time than to replace the link. So why did the previous owner feel the need to have this done. Why didn't the fuse blow? Is it in parallel with the link because the previous owner felt more handling capacity was needed? The mod should be easily reversed but knowing why it was put in place is a curiosity. An itch that should be scratched.

 

[Al st1100]

So the 65A fusible link appears to be replaced by a 30A fuse in a holder with wire that's much smaller than it should be. Maybe even lower in capacity in that the fuse? The wire shows overheating yet the fuse didn't fail. So what is the typical current through that link?

The PAL fuse and holder would be very convenient to replace a blown link. In several bike over several thousands of miles with a few electrical mods — no links have failed. Theres always 'the one time...' scenario. The highly improbably situation for which the Perfect Boy Scout Rider would certainly be prepared.

But this mod probably took more time than to replace the link. So why did the previous owner feel the need to have this done. Why didn't the fuse blow? Is it in parallel with the link because the previous owner felt more handling capacity was needed? The mod should be easily reversed but knowing why it was put in place is a curiosity. An itch that should be scratched.

The common thing I see that blows that fuse ( cars use same thing just a larger amp) is jumping the battery backwards. Anything else in the system except the alternator(I think not seeing a diagram) would have blown a smaller fuse,.

 

[Harry]

So the 65A fusible link appears to be replaced by a 30A fuse in a holder with wire that's much smaller than it should be. Maybe even lower in capacity in that the fuse? The wire shows overheating yet the fuse didn't fail. So what is the typical current through that link?

The PAL fuse and holder would be very convenient to replace a blown link. In several bike over several thousands of miles with a few electrical mods — no links have failed. Theres always 'the one time...' scenario. The highly improbably situation for which the Perfect Boy Scout Rider would certainly be prepared.

But this mod probably took more time than to replace the link. So why did the previous owner feel the need to have this done. Why didn't the fuse blow? Is it in parallel with the link because the previous owner felt more handling capacity was needed? The mod should be easily reversed but knowing why it was put in place is a curiosity. An itch that should be scratched.

Hi ... That use is a great alternative. I will look at that further. The 65 amp fuse is definitely blown , If you pull the 30 amp as in the picture , the bike wont start. I t is still winter where I live ,so , things are bit on hold . In ,hopefully a couple of weeks ,I "ll get the bike out and swap out that fuse.. I will also send a pic of the bike , Its a nice example of 07 ST1300. Thanks for your help.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

That use is a great alternative.

It's a great alternative if you are stuck on the road without access to the correct one. While repairing it at the comfort of your home, I see no reason not to put the correct fusible link back in. It fits properly and is low profile to allow you to also replace the cover that was mutilated. This will restore the protection from accidental shorting if something metallic accidentally finds it way in to that area.

You need to find out why that link is blown. This is why I suggested trying to find out from the previous owner if possible. Maybe there is nothing wrong. May be he blew it by dropping a screw driver on it, which means you might be chasing a ghost looking for a problem that isn't there.

Fusible links only blow when there is something wrong. If there is something wrong, find and fix what is wrong and you will likely never touch that link again.

 

[diferg]

OFF TOPIC ALERT! Many years ago (that becomes more and more frequent) a friend had a Renault that could play radio, interior lights etc, then would crank for about 3 seconds then all electrical in car would go dead! After about 1-2 minutes you could retry and get the same symptoms. discovered the main "strip" fuse was cracked and heat of cranking would cause fuse to separate. When a minute or so had passed the fuse would cool and reconnect and the world was good until the starter was engaged. Testing with multimeter showed fuse was good. Discovered by seeing arc while cranking .

 

[Harry]

It's a great alternative if you are stuck on the road without access to the correct one. While repairing it at the comfort of your home, I see no reason not to put the correct fusible link back in. It fits properly and is low profile to allow you to also replace the cover that was mutilated. This will restore the protection from accidental shorting if something metallic accidentally finds it way in to that area.

You need to find out why that link is blown. This is why I suggested trying to find out from the previous owner if possible. Maybe there is nothing wrong. May be he blew it by dropping a screw driver on it, which means you might be chasing a ghost looking for a problem that isn't there.

Fusible links only blow when there is something wrong. If there is something wrong, find and fix what is wrong and you will likely never touch that link again.

Your absolutely right Andrew Shadow . I will be replacing the fuse block with the correct factory one. Thanks

 

[Harry]

Welcome from Coquitlam, I'm no expert but I'd do a visual inspection and clean all grounds.

Hello and thanks.

 

[Nexus]

I had this fuse blow once when I was re-installing my battery. I'm guessing I must have ground it out somehow. I temporarily bypassed it with a 45 amp blade fuse to see if everything was still working. I then replaced the OEM fuse and have had no problems since.

 

[ST Gui]

While repairing it at the comfort of your home, I see no reason not to put the correct fusible link back in.

I agree. I don't know how many here have had that 65A link die but I never have with a lot of bikes and a lot of miles. I don't know anyone personally who's been in that situation. It doesn't seem to me to be much of a common occurrence (not that it doesn't happen) that would make a PAL fuse modification worth the effort for the mere sake of convenience.. On the road (with some light) it shouldn't be much of an inconvenience to replace a link. Kind of like child-proofing a house against sharks. There may be an instance where that's a good idea. But for most of us – not so much.

That the link is blown indicates a severe current draw — 65A or possibly more. That would make even shorter work (not that most of us could measure) of a 30A fuse. It may have been a one time experience that you can't track or explain but you should try.

 

[Rick Fisher]

Depending on the spacing of the bolts a "Pal type fuse " should bolt in, available at an auto parts store. Push on spade terminals like the ones on your bike are not made for that kind of amperage. Bolt it in. After that make sure it's charging ( with a voltmeter)

My battery was getting bad, and I really wanted to ride, so I used my charger on 50 amps. It started, and after a while quit. I had fried the fusible link (lesson learned). The link it came with was stock, and 55 amps. Went to the auto parts, and got two "Pall type fuses", rated at 50, and 80 amps. With a little modification (the holes were slightly farther apart) I put the 50 amp fuse in. It's been fine so far, but I have the 80 under my seat.

 

[Chris09]

I'm goofing around with my blackbird battery which I think is fine, but has a 8.8 VDC [too low] cranking voltage. Bought in 2019 [four / five years old, mild climate] realized eventually that my new charger failed to apply charging voltage if the initial battery voltage is 12.6 or greater.
So I don't get it until I'm putting my new smart charger across three different batteries and nothing's happening.
Then I put my 30 [forty year?] old charger across two jumpered in parallel and monitored the applied voltage - 15.0 to 15.1 there is a 2A / 6A rocker switch [which has been stuck in 6A mode since I wore platform shoes... that's an exageration; I never wore platform shoes].
Now, I wouldn't try this at home, I wouldn't [given the delicate electrical "stuff" of the BB much less the ST] put this on against the connected electrical circuits of either bikes, but disconnected, they sure sucked the juice [nothing like an analogue ameter, to tell you where it's at], and afterward my BB battery [for the first time held a 13.0 static VDC and started a lot crisper. Will compare the actual improvement in cranking voltage [or voltage drop, however you like to look at it] tomorrow.
I'm advised on the BB site that the charging system is a net looser; I know this to be not so with the ST; lower than ideal initial battery voltage [albeit with a good battery] that has been sitting for a couple weeks you can feel the slower crankspeed but after a short ride with everything [that came with the bike] it always recharges that battery within thirty minutes.
The ST is a 240 CCA whereas the BB is a 210CCA. My opinion is that the 210 is garbage and root cause of various electrical problems with that bike, but story for another day.