Brake Bleeding Question.

[dduelin]

Not true. Someone once told me that you'll never be wrong if you follow the Service Manual. Of course, not the typos in the Service Manual.

Using the syringe to drain the cylinders is great, but skipping the draining procedure risks not getting all of the old fluid out especially in this linked braking system.

Let me put it another way. The old fluid has air in it. Think very teenie tiny air bubbles. New fluid has much less air in it. When one tries to push new fluid into old fluid the more dense fluid - new fluid - mixes with the less dense fluid - old fluid. The process is called Osmosis. As a result, one gets fluid with air in it. Now, the mixed fluid may look clean to the naked eye.

Further, old fluid may get trapped in some of the pockets of this very long linked braking system like the secondary master cylinder. If this happens, there may be a higher concentration of air in the fluid in this cylinder. Not good.

Bob,

I have no disagreement about why it is necessary to replace hydraulic fluid at Honda's suggested intervals I just think that in this case we end up with the same result. My brakes are great all the time. I don't wait until there is a problem with accumulated air or moisture beyond the minute amount that accumulates between a flush & replacement for the reasons you mention. You are singing to the choir - I have done this job at as little as 8,000 miles and no longer than 12,000 miles. At 93,000 miles I've done it a few times now and don't need to use 48 oz when 24-28 oz does then same exact thing. What I can't understand is those that never do it or do it only when a problem occurs. There is a reason Honda says to do it at certain intervals.

As far as following the service manual to the letter goes...... when I see a short cut or a short cut is pointed out to me that saves time or effort without compromising the end result I might take it. An example is removing the radiator rather than the throttle bodies to access the thermostat housing. The SM would have you disturb all the stuff in the vee when it isn't necessary. Another example is removing the rear shock. There is no need to remove the foot peg hanger with the brake light switch and associated brake plumbing when removing the bolts and pulling it outboard 5 or 10 mm is all you need to remove the lower shock bolt. If you can see that replacing the bolt the other way removes the need to even move the foot peg hanger the next time why not change the SM procedure rather than follow it blindly?