Brake Caliper Overhaul

[St1300biker]

Hi everyone

I've carried out a brake caliper overhaul many times on other machines over the years, so my questions relate solely to to peculiarities of the ST1300.

I've searched the forum but, surprisingly, couldn't find much in the archives/Articles.

My questions are:-

1. Is it essential to separate the 2 halves in order to remove the pistons?
2. If the answer to 1. is "Yes", then presumably the method that needs to be adopted to loosen the 3 bolts holding the 2 halves of each caliper together is:-

a) remove one caliper,
b) loosen the 3 bolts on the caliper still in place
c) remove the caliper in b)
d) reinstall the caliper in a)
e) loosen the 3 bolts for the caliper in d)
f) remove the caliper in e)?

Do you agree?

I suggest this because it is impossible to reach the 3 bolts with an extension bar while both calipers are in place, as they are diametrically opposed.

BYW, I usually fit EBC pads to all my bikes, but this time I have OEM pads ready. Although brand new, I managed to get F & R for 20% discount on Ebay, and parts still in original packaging. The other reason for changing is that I've been reading a number of articles which suggest that pads and discs should always be matched ie OEM/OEM or EBC/EBC. Will be interesting to see the difference in the stopping power. I haven't measured the thickness of the new ones yet, but they don't LOOK any thicker.

Paul

 

[caldercay]

BYW, I usually fit EBC pads to all my bikes,

Why folks insist on EBC? Price difference is minimal

but this time I have OEM pads ready.

 

[St1300biker]

Why folks insist on EBC? Price difference is minima

Not in UK!

Paul

 

[dduelin]

A factory service manual is of great use when servicing critical systems and a minimal investment with a used bike.

Sorry I have not rebuilt the calipers on a ST1300 and have no useful commentary.

 

[St1300biker]

A factory service manual is of great use when servicing critical systems and a minimal investment with a used bike.

I have both this and the Haynes Manual

 

[Obo]

Hi everyone

I've carried out a brake caliper overhaul many times on other machines over the years, so my questions relate solely to to peculiarities of the ST1300.

I've searched the forum but, surprisingly, couldn't find much in the archives/Articles.

My questions are:-

1. Is it essential to separate the 2 halves in order to remove the pistons?
2. If the answer to 1. is "Yes", then presumably the method that needs to be adopted to loosen the 3 bolts holding the 2 halves of each caliper together is:-

a) remove one caliper,
b) loosen the 3 bolts on the caliper still in place
c) remove the caliper in b)
d) reinstall the caliper in a)
e) loosen the 3 bolts for the caliper in d)
f) remove the caliper in e)?

Do you agree?

I suggest this because it is impossible to reach the 3 bolts with an extension bar while both calipers are in place, as they are diametrically opposed.

BYW, I usually fit EBC pads to all my bikes, but this time I have OEM pads ready. Although brand new, I managed to get F & R for 20% discount on Ebay, and parts still in original packaging. The other reason for changing is that I've been reading a number of articles which suggest that pads and discs should always be matched ie OEM/OEM or EBC/EBC. Will be interesting to see the difference in the stopping power. I haven't measured the thickness of the new ones yet, but they don't LOOK any thicker.

Paul

There are reasons the OEM pads are a better choice. The rear is thicker, the front thinner (so they don't drag) and they have the white spacer between the backing plate and the cage to prevent the heat from cooking the fluid.

 

[St1300biker]

There are reasons the OEM pads are a better choice. The rear is thicker, the front thinner (so they don't drag) and they have the white spacer between the backing plate and the cage to prevent the heat from cooking the fluid.

Interesting.....

 

[St1300biker]

........... and they have the white spacer between the backing plate and the cage to prevent the heat from cooking the fluid.

That's confused me - just checked mine (see below) - no white spacer and what do you mean by "cage"?



Paul

 

[Igofar]

EBC decided to not tool up and make the correct fitment for the ST1300.
Instead of following the Honda Spec's with the rear pad thicker, and the front pads thinner, they just offered the rear fitment pad (thick) for both locations.
This often causes the front brakes to drag the rotor, and not have enough room to back away from it, causing the rear brake to drag and/or wear down faster.
They also omitted the white Heat guard on the rear pads that protects the fluid from cooking.
I've seen hundreds of bikes that had fitment issues with EBC pads.
In testing both the EBC and the OEM pads on Police motors, switching riders/bikes, there was no difference in stopping power with either one.
I would recommend NOT to remove the 3 bolts holding the calipers together, as folks who try and do this almost always end up damaging the clips when they put it back together etc.
The rear brake caliper bracket slides off the caliper on guide pins, and does not need to be taken down to replace the pads/seals/pistons.

 

[Igofar]

That's confused me - just checked mine (see below) - no white spacer and what do you mean by "cage"?



Paul

Those pads are for the front brake caliper(s) the rear pads have a notch cut out in the foot to fit over dimples in the front clip, and have the white heat guard etc.
What year ST do you have?

 

[St1300biker]

EBC decided to not tool up and make the correct fitment for the ST1300.
Instead of following the Honda Spec's with the rear pad thicker, and the front pads thinner, they just offered the rear fitment pad (thick) for both locations.
This often causes the front brakes to drag the rotor, and not have enough room to back away from it, causing the rear brake to drag and/or wear down faster.
They also omitted the white Heat guard on the rear pads that protects the fluid from cooking.
I've seen hundreds of bikes that had fitment issues with EBC pads.
In testing both the EBC and the OEM pads on Police motors, switching riders/bikes, there was no difference in stopping power with either one.
I would recommend NOT to remove the 3 bolts holding the calipers together, as folks who try and do this almost always end up damaging the clips when they put it back together etc.
The rear brake caliper bracket slides off the caliper on guide pins, and does not need to be taken down to replace the pads/seals/pistons.

very helpful - thank you.

"They also omitted the white Heat guard on the rear pads" - Ah, I just checked the front pads

I fitted my EBC pads 7k miles ago and no issues fitting or using??

Paul

 

[St1300biker]

Those pads are for the front brake caliper(s) the rear pads have a notch cut out in the foot to fit over dimples in the front clip, and have the white heat guard etc.
What year ST do you have?

Manufactured 2006

 

[St1300biker]

the rear pads have a notch cut out in the foot to fit over dimples in the front clip, and have the white heat guard etc.

I've checked mine and I agree with you, Larry.

So my interpretation of what you are suggesting is that I can get the pistons/seals out without separating the 2 halves. Is that correct?

Paul

 

[St1300biker]

They also omitted the white Heat guard on the rear pads that protects the fluid from cooking.

Upon reflection, I recently noticed the rear caliper was slightly warm to the touch, but fronts both cold. Rear wheel spins freely and pistons release ok.

Perhaps your comment here explains the reason for the warmth?

Paul

 

[Igofar]

I've checked mine and I agree with you, Larry.

So my interpretation of what you are suggesting is that I can get the pistons/seals out without separating the 2 halves. Is that correct?

Paul

Yes, that is correct.

 

[St1300biker]

Yes, that is correct.

Thanks

 

[Igofar]

I just sent you a pretty lengthy message discussing some brake issues so I would not derail this thread.

 

[jfheath]

Just for info - these are front and rear pads for the Pre 2008 models. Rear pads have the notch in the tab end (top of photo), are thicker when new, and are fitted with a thin white heat shield - shown on the right in the top photo, and visible in place in the right hand pad in the bottom photo.

In pre 2008 bikes, the front pads will physically fit in the rear caliper - but they will stick and cause problems. Make sure that you can identify which pad belongs where. Also the silver rectangular retaining clip fitted to the caliper bracket is different between front and rear. The front retaining clip with its two flat rectangular areas is shown at the bottom of this post. The rear retaining clip has an obvious punched-out strip across the two flats.

Finally - don't be tempted to fit a heat shield to the front pads. They do not need it, and they will cause the front brakes to drag when the pads are new, and consequently the rear brakes will overheat.

In the photo below, a rear pad, a front pad, the chromed anti-squeal plate and the white heat shield for the rear pads.
The rear pad with its notched tab end, is on the left of the photo.



The photo below, shows a front and a rear pad placed facing each other. The thinner front pad is on the left. The rear pad on the right has the thin white heat shield fitted between the bronze coloured back plate, and the chrome anti-squeal plate.



The photo on the right shows the retaining clip for the front caliper bracket and pads. No ridge across the faces.

Hope this helps.

 

[St1300biker]

Just for info - these are front and rear pads for the Pre 2008 models. Rear pads have the notch in the tab end (top of photo), are thicker when new, and are fitted with a thin white heat shield - shown on the right in the top photo, and visible in place in the right hand pad in the bottom photo.

In pre 2008 bikes, the front pads will physically fit in the rear caliper - but they will stick and cause problems. Make sure that you can identify which pad belongs where. Also the silver rectangular retaining clip fitted to the caliper bracket is different between front and rear. The front retaining clip with its two flat rectangular areas is shown at the bottom of this post. The rear retaining clip has an obvious punched-out strip across the two flats.

Finally - don't be tempted to fit a heat shield to the front pads. They do not need it, and they will cause the front brakes to drag when the pads are new, and consequently the rear brakes will overheat.

In the photo below, a rear pad, a front pad, the chromed anti-squeal plate and the whit heat shield for the rear pads.
The rear pad with its notched tab end, is on the left of the photo.



In the photo below, shiws a frint and a rear pad placed facing each other. The thinner front pad is on the left. The rear pad on the right has the thin white heat shield fitted between the bronze coloured back plate, and the chrome anti-squeal plate.



The photo in the right shows the retaining clip for the front caliper bracket and pads. No ridge across the faces.

Hope this helps.

Thanks John

 

[Catmandu2]

but they don't LOOK any thicker.

I had always used OEM pads. But then I came into a couple of pairs of EBC's,,, and decided to do a comparative test, using one EBC pair on the rear. When I was running oem's on the front and back,,, I would always wear the rear pads out first. Like about 2/3 the life of the front pads. I tend to dive into corners,,, and have retrained my brain to mostly use the front lever and let the smc do it's thing. I measured the EBC pads vs the OEM pads before install, and they were within .005/.010 of each other. The only other differences were the bedding grooves, and the white thermal insulator, on the OEM pads. So what was the result of this head to head comparison ?? I am almost done with the EBC rears,,, and have noticed no difference in performance and longevity. I am really well stocked with oem pads right now,,, otherwise I would not hesitate to put another set of ebc's on the rear. One qualifier is that I have not actually removed and inspected the rear ebc's yet,,, but that will likely come up in the late spring,,, cheers,,, CAt'