Ah.... therein may be an issue if they didn't bleed it correctly.. no offense to any dealer service guys here but I think I'd trust your bleed vs a dealer's bleed, wouldn't be the 1st time they got that wrong after that brake recall.
Brake noise continues
- Thread starter Twempie
- Start date
Okay, darn... thought I was on to something. lol I hope they do a better job this time.
Just got back from the dealer, they said everything is working as it should, they also said they compared it to a Sheriff's bike they were working on(?) and it was normal.
So maybe one of these upcoming wet weekends I'll pull it apart for the third time and give it another look and clean (again), and see if I can find some of that there copper grease.
So maybe one of these upcoming wet weekends I'll pull it apart for the third time and give it another look and clean (again), and see if I can find some of that there copper grease.
Good to hear.. pun intended... I just saw your video, haven't heard anything like that before on my bike but... that being said, it sure sounds like the pads may need some light sanding or the rotor is a little glazed. I think you're fine, some miles on it should work that off or you can take the pads out and see if you can scuff them up some with some sand paper.
I finally have been able to get rid of the noise.
I took out the pin and held the pads in with my fingers, rotating the wheel. The noise hasn't been as loud these past two weeks, but I could still feel some sort of rubbing at a particular point on the disc. I then took out the outer pad (calculating the friction-noise was on the inside pad).
Not being sure if it was the disc or the pad, I took the finest glasspaper I had and gently rubbed the area of the disc that may (or may not have) been the problem. I then took out the inside pad and noticed there was quite a gap between the backing and the rest of the pad (see photo). I did drop the pad on my workbench - a few inches - when I first installed, also I could've bent the backing during initial installation. Not sure.
I gently finger-bent the backing back to its proper place and applied a light schmeer of copper grease to the back of the pads (the sides that touch the calipers/pistons), and I also lightly greased both sides of the white baffle inside the pads, basically making copper-grease sandwiches. I also greased the pin.
I sprayed brake cleaner on an old T-shirt and cleaned the rotor.
Now we're back to normal.
BTW: I had to buy the copper grease from Amazon. I tried to get some at my local NAPA on 4th Ave South in Georgetown (Seattle, not DC). The dimwit know-it-all-know-nothing behind the counter didn't even lift his nose out of his newspaper and said "I've never heard of copper grease before", turned the page and kept on reading. I expected better from NAPA.
I took out the pin and held the pads in with my fingers, rotating the wheel. The noise hasn't been as loud these past two weeks, but I could still feel some sort of rubbing at a particular point on the disc. I then took out the outer pad (calculating the friction-noise was on the inside pad).
Not being sure if it was the disc or the pad, I took the finest glasspaper I had and gently rubbed the area of the disc that may (or may not have) been the problem. I then took out the inside pad and noticed there was quite a gap between the backing and the rest of the pad (see photo). I did drop the pad on my workbench - a few inches - when I first installed, also I could've bent the backing during initial installation. Not sure.
I gently finger-bent the backing back to its proper place and applied a light schmeer of copper grease to the back of the pads (the sides that touch the calipers/pistons), and I also lightly greased both sides of the white baffle inside the pads, basically making copper-grease sandwiches. I also greased the pin.
I sprayed brake cleaner on an old T-shirt and cleaned the rotor.
Now we're back to normal.
BTW: I had to buy the copper grease from Amazon. I tried to get some at my local NAPA on 4th Ave South in Georgetown (Seattle, not DC). The dimwit know-it-all-know-nothing behind the counter didn't even lift his nose out of his newspaper and said "I've never heard of copper grease before", turned the page and kept on reading. I expected better from NAPA.
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Glad you got it sorted!!!!
They probably know it as anti-seize grease.... but have never actually seen what it looks like or know what's in it..... confidence inspiring it isn't......
I always coat the back of new pads with copper grease before installing and after cleaning the pins and sliding parts, use an appropriate lubricant there too!
They probably know it as anti-seize grease.... but have never actually seen what it looks like or know what's in it..... confidence inspiring it isn't......
I always coat the back of new pads with copper grease before installing and after cleaning the pins and sliding parts, use an appropriate lubricant there too!
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Honda automotive dealers sell small packets of anti-squeal grease that goes on the back of brake pads to silence them. To me it looks like a moly grease due to the color and consistency although the application does not call for a moly based grease. I mention the visual description only because it doesn't have a copper color or sheen to it like copper based anti-seize does. Any automotive parts dealer should sell some type of grease for this application.
It is anti seize here. It comes with and with out the copper. The copper is added to increase the temperature range. I use a small amount on my spark plug threads also.
I already had the non-copper (silver-grey) anti-seize in a Chapstick-sized dispenser and have used that in the past, but after reading John's recommendation and doing a little research, I decided to get the copper variety. This must be the longest brake-job in history.
Thanks to all.
Thanks to all.
Twempie & jfheath: Thank you for sharing your information regarding stopping the annoying sound coming from the rear brake at a low speed. The anti-seize/copper grease did the trick of ridding my bike from this ailment! I wish I had found your thread months ago- I've replaced the pads, visited the dealership a couple of times, and even lightly sanded the disc. After all that- the sound still persisted until today when I followed your advice.
Thanks, again!
Thanks, again!
Tom Mac 04a
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I've done more than a few pad changes on 3 bikes... A few things I find are important;
1) clean all well.. get that toothbrush in there
2) yes , you do lube (slightly) certain parts of the caliper
I've heard noise from the pads at times, but some rubbing is normal. As to the sticking brakes, I usu go with the touch test first. If the pads are working normally, they should be warm/hot to the touch where you can keep your finger on for a second or more... If you get an instant 'holy cow' touch, something is wrong. ( if in the 140 -150f range, you prob won't leave you finger on for a second, in the 180f range your finger will get a quick burn or 'son-of-a-b" touch ) .
Another thing on the ST I've found it not only tilting the SMC , but actually pumping the small piston while bleeding gets a lot of crud out of there and assures good travel of the SMC.
1) clean all well.. get that toothbrush in there
2) yes , you do lube (slightly) certain parts of the caliper
I've heard noise from the pads at times, but some rubbing is normal. As to the sticking brakes, I usu go with the touch test first. If the pads are working normally, they should be warm/hot to the touch where you can keep your finger on for a second or more... If you get an instant 'holy cow' touch, something is wrong. ( if in the 140 -150f range, you prob won't leave you finger on for a second, in the 180f range your finger will get a quick burn or 'son-of-a-b" touch ) .
Another thing on the ST I've found it not only tilting the SMC , but actually pumping the small piston while bleeding gets a lot of crud out of there and assures good travel of the SMC.