brake pads

[Tom Mac 04a]

Just threw in a full front set of OEM brake pads... easy job, hardest part was fitting my toothbrush in there to clean well.

But , maybe something I never noticed before... each of the pads had 'sort of bars' lines on the pad material about 2mm high and 2mm wide across the pads.
I can only assume its on the newer pad revision as I don't remember seeing them before when replacing... G01 versions

prob just to sort of let the pad clean the rotor up a bit before full contact...comments???

pic of G02 (second revison)

 

[st1300r]

?
I thought the g1 g2 change was the added piece of safety paper in the shrink wrap.

iirc the oem had 4 pad pcs ebc two larger ones.
I don't remember if they oem had those lines.
fleabay shows them as well.

 

[Mellow]

I know when I had my wing, sometimes you'd have to file the leading edge of the rearmost pad and it would prevent some initial squeaking until the pads had some time to seat and the surface adjust to the rotors surface. Could be this is a way to minimize that adjustment and any related squeaking.. I did notice them on my last set of pads but couldn't remember if they were on the previous set.

 

[Blrfl]

But , maybe something I never noticed before... each of the pads had 'sort of bars' lines on the pad material about 2mm high and 2mm wide across the pads. I can only assume its on the newer pad revision as I don't remember seeing them before when replacing... G01 versions

The G01 version had that, too. The ribs wear away relatively quickly because the surface area is only about half of what it should be, and in the process expose the rest of the pad to gradually-increasing amounts of heat. That helps to "season" them properly and, more importantly, avoids glazing.

--Mark

 

[Don B]

You aren't looking at wear indicators are you? When the grooves disappear it's time to replace pads...

 

[BakerBoy]

Good observation Tom. Much like Mark/Blurful, I'd also think it has to do with better "bedding in" / curing and allowing the surface to flex to more easily match up to slightly worn rotors.

 

[Tom Mac 04a]

You aren't looking at wear indicators are you?

Actually, I don't think the OEMs have them... just the four pucks per pad. I've seen some wear their pads right to the metal base. :O

Mine were down to about 1/3 left... very slight diff in wear on pads, slight diff in wear front/back on same pads.

I changed them out as I'm heading out on a ride south soon with a friend, around in VA/WV down to the border and Rte 16!

 

[CBR 46]

Just threw in a full front set of OEM brake pads... easy job, hardest part was fitting my toothbrush in there to clean well.

But , maybe something I never noticed before... each of the pads had 'sort of bars' lines on the pad material about 2mm high and 2mm wide across the pads.
I can only assume its on the newer pad revision as I don't remember seeing them before when replacing... G01 versions

prob just to sort of let the pad clean the rotor up a bit before full contact...comments???

pic of G02 (second revison)

If you look closely at the pic of the pads you'll see a small rectangular hole between the metal and braking part.....that's the wear limit indicator

 

[ESB]

Just bought a set of fronts last week - Honda OEMs - and they had no bars like shown in first pic. - w/4 smooth blocks per side.

 

[Igofar]

Then you didn't get oem factory pads. All the HONDA OEM pads have them as stated they are there to mate the new pad in. Do not do any hard breaking untill you wear these down or your padz may glaze.

 

[BakerBoy]

Then you didn't get oem factory pads. All the HONDA OEM pads have them as stated they are there to mate the new pad in. Do not do any hard breaking untill you wear these down or your padz may glaze.

It appears pads with the -G02 suffix do have the grooves Larry (see post #2, for example). Also, bedding-in procedures (many of them online, here is one) purposely include hard braking, avoiding glazing among other things.

 

[Igofar]

It appears pads with the -G02 suffix do have the grooves Larry (see post #2, for example). Also, bedding-in procedures (many of them online, here is one) purposely include hard braking, avoiding glazing among other things.

Your confusing me dude! If you re-read my response, I said All the HONDA OEM pads have them...etc.
I agree with post #2, those are OEM honda pads. One of the other posts said the pads they got didn't have them, so I suggested that the dealership may not have sold the OEM honda part.
thanks for the brake pad write up. That's kinda what I do, several gentle stops, then increasingly harder, etc. I don't do it enough to turn the rotor blue however.
I love this forum, we're always learning new stuff.
Thanks again.

Just threw in a full front set of OEM brake pads... easy job, hardest part was fitting my toothbrush in there to clean well.

But , maybe something I never noticed before... each of the pads had 'sort of bars' lines on the pad material about 2mm high and 2mm wide across the pads.
I can only assume its on the newer pad revision as I don't remember seeing them before when replacing... G01 versions

prob just to sort of let the pad clean the rotor up a bit before full contact...comments???

pic of G02 (second revison)

If you go out and purchase a wide cotton sneaker shoelace, grab each end, dip the center in brake fluid, wrap it around the piston, then saw back and forth, you'll clean even the parts you can't see

 

[BakerBoy]

Your confusing me dude! If you re-read my response, I said All the HONDA OEM pads have them...etc.
I agree with post #2, those are OEM honda pads.
...

I just re-read your post ... clearly I mis-read it when replying. Sorry about that Larry.

 

[Tom Mac 04a]

If you look closely at the pic of the pads you'll see a small rectangular hole between the metal and braking part.....that's the wear limit indicator

Look at that... i stand corrected! I either change mine out before seeing them OR my friend wears them down to metal. Never noticed.

 

[Tom Mac 04a]

If you go out and purchase a wide cotton sneaker shoelace, grab each end, dip the center in brake fluid, wrap it around the piston, then saw back and forth, you'll clean even the parts you can't see

Thanks , good tip. Actually, it's so easy to remove them I pop the calipers off and hang it to clean fully... for me its easier to clean, inspect, lube the entire caliper.
Tried once to just drop the pads, but it made it to hard to clean for my liking.

 

[Tom Mac 04a]

FYI to all.... yesterday since my pads were done, I fiq it was time to change the brake/clutch fluid.

Last time was about a 1 & 1/2 yrs ago.
My buddy and I stripped her down, and followed the great brake article. During the change/bleed it was amazing to see the crud that appears in the fluid in a short amount of time. Also I got to work the SMC a bit while it was angled over... to make sure the SMC had a full travel.
Well all is fine now, used about 16 oz to run thru the pipes.... brake travel feels like new again. I guess it just happens slowly to the point you really don't feel the diff till after it's bled properly!

Still amazed as to the crap/crud that gets in a close system(water contamination)...not to mention the two good size bubbles!