Cant get rear ABS sensor out of hub horn

Joined
Jan 22, 2013
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ST1100 2000
I have tried everynting - hot water, wd40, hot air blower. Does anyone have any ideas been in there 12 years and doesnt wnat to come out!
Would much appreciate any advice. Obviously cant hit it hard! Ian
 

Mark

Gotta make tracks
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If it is stuck in there with road salts a weak acid my be in order; some vinegar sprayed on and allowed to penetrate.
I doubt vinegar will hurt any part of the bike around there...

Good luck,
Mark
 
OP
OP
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If it is stuck in there with road salts a weak acid my be in order; some vinegar sprayed on and allowed to penetrate.
I doubt vinegar will hurt any part of the bike around there...

Thanks Mark I will try it.

Good luck,
Mark[/QUOTE]
 
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Lots and lots of GOOD penetrating oil can help...and I don't mean WD40. But the reality is, sometimes those sensors are impossible to remove without damaging them. What exactly are you removing it for? If its damaged, do as mentioned above and don't worry about the sensor...drill it out or use a punch to drive it out. If its good, is there any way to do what you need to do without removing it? I haven't seen the 1100 setup...but if its in a bracket, remove the whole bracket; if not, unplug the sensor and remove it with the swingarm, if that is what you are doing. As I said...I have no idea of the 1100 design, so I'm just throwing suggestions out there.
 
OP
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Thanks guys, I needed to remove swing arm for a repair . What a nightmare. Everyhting fine, un bolt and remove sensor - must be joking , gentle tap with rubber hammer and hub horn snapped off - tears or what! Local welder with TIG says should be able to fix.
Still cant get sensor out of broken bit, will keep trying.
How can I tell if sensor still ok after alot of pulling and pushing?
Simplish job becomes a .......
 
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PB Blaster is yur friend... Sorry to hear about the broken bracket,,, not the first time. I'll remember to add some anti-seize when i next replace one.
 
OP
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Thanks for the advice folk, very useful. Think I will have to bite the bullet and drill the sensor out so that the hub can be welded, then dig deep and buy a new sensor.
Ian
 
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I realise it's way overdue, but it might help out some other poor folks who have been struggling with this. The flange of mine broke off immediately like it was nothing, leaving the sleeve and plastic core of the sensor stuck in the hub. I tried wd40, penetrating oil, carefully chiseling the sensor out (nearly breaking it in the process), nothing worked. So i took my hot air gun and put it on 650 celcius (1200 fahrenheit) and completely melted the plastic core of the sensor, after which i was able to fold the sleeve into itself and get the whole thing out.
 
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jfheath

John Heath
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Thanks for the information @Rubenbank

I spotted the email heading and headed straight to it to warn against hitting it with anything.

Too late.

The same thing happened with my seized sensor in my 1100. I found a tiny gap between the casting on the stalk that holds the sensor and the flange on the sensor itself. A miniature screw driver was a nice wedge fit - so I tapped it into position hoping that the wedge shape would slowly lift it out with a few taps. Everso gentle taps - I mean kid gloves - I clould have flicked it harder.

I know the dangers of cast metals - I had a truing frame (well it was Dad's, but I used to use it a lot) for when I used to re-spoke and true my own bicycle wheels. The hand wheel turns were a bit awkward to rotate, and I almost had them so that I could get the axle out - it just needed a bit more - it was about a mm, so I just tried to spring the arms apart. It just came off in my hand Dad.

But this was only a little tap - nothing significant, there was no way that this little tap - it was only intended to drive the sensor upwards. Nevertheless - it just snapped off close to the base of the stalk.

1689790498186.pngI took the expensive way out and ordered a new side of the final drive, a couple of shims and got the dealer to use their press to get the bevel gear shimmed properly to mesh the gears at the correct spot. Then fitted a different sensor. I never did find a way to get that sensor out of the bracket. Photo on the right shows the newly fitted part - the cleanest part of my ST1100 at the time.

Afterwards I saw someone else had a solution which involved fashoining a bracket out of aluminium sheet that was bolted in place by the two bolts either side of the stalk.

Thereafter I took both sensors out at every service, cleaned them up, checked them and re-applied some Honda Moly 60 paste to the sides.

The 1300 has a different arrangement - a sensor that is much smaller diameter than the hole in the bracket, and a rubber seal above to seat it properly. But guess who still applies Moly paste to the cylindrical walls of his sensors every winter ?

(nb Moly paste is not essential. It just needs to be something waterproof that stays in place.)
 
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@jfheath Sounds like I have been extremely lucky then. I didn't go all out, but it was more than a gentle tap I gave it! The hub that the sensor sits in is cracked from top to bottom on the wheel side, but the mounting bracket of the sensor keeps it together tight.. Dodged a bullet I reckon!
 

ST1100Y

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Thereafter I took both sensors out at every service, cleaned them up, checked them and re-applied some Honda Moly 60 paste to the sides.
Methinks that's the core of the problem:
Those sensors never got removed to begin with, ever, despite the manuals instruct to remove them before attempting to remove the wheels, always...
 
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