Carb Slider Question

[tmds3]

I have looked and haven't been able to find an answer to whether or not you can remove the slider covers while the carbs are still on the bike and if so is there a gasket(?) or some other type of sealant?

I didnt see a gasket listed on the fiche is the reason for the second question.
The first is the bike is a little down on power, other than that runs fine.

Thanks

 

[vinny]

I wish I could answer that definitely, but it has been a while since getting into the bike that much. My memory is weak. I have removed the "slider covers" (aka "vacuum pistons") before, but the carbs were off the bike. The frame may get in the way of accessing the bottom two screws on each of the covers. There is no gasket, the diaphragm material has a molded ring in it that serves as the gasket and fits in a groove. It may just need a little fuel system cleaner run through it and a good carb sync to perk it up. Also check the air filter and the sub-filter. The sub-filter decomposes and can get sucked into the vacuum pistons.

 

[tmds3]

Thanks for the response, I have done the carb synch and run several cans of cleaner thru it, good on the air filter and the sub filter.
Also when researching this one other thing kept coming up and that was a fuel cut-off valve or bypass needing to be rebuilt, my bike has this removed.

 

[vinny]

When was the last time the spark plugs were replaced? Are you using the same type/brand of gasoline in it? What about the fuel filter... sometimes they can look clean but not enough flow to keep up with the demand... Has it ever lost power when trying to accelerate?

 

[tmds3]

Plugs little over 1000 miles ago, fuel filter replaced at same time, hasn't lost power but seems to "lug" a little. Don't know how to explain it any better,at 75 to 80 I feel like I need to downshift to pass instead of just getting on the throttle.
Or is this normal? Only had the bike for a year and love it but seems to be a little down on power.

Also since I have zero knowledge of its past there are some things that I wonder about as far as maintenance and or problems.

 

[tmds3]

OK doing a little maintenance on the bike I took a look at the carb boots, not a good angle but could see regular hose clamps on them, so they seem to have been replaced somewhere in the past. My question though is what do the OEM boots look like, mine look like a radiator hose that has been cut down.

Now this is looking at what can be seen with only bodywork removed and nothing else.

 

[Erdoc48]

To answer the question, I really think the carb bank needs to be removed completely to access the carb sliders (which isn't as difficult as you may think). Several years ago, mine was running poorly at idle (wouldn't idle > 500 rpm), so I cleaned out the pilot jets with compressed air and took out the sliders and cleaned them (lots of think white stuff on the rubbers, whatever it was).

Mine was specifically an idle problem, if yours idles well and runs/accelerates well otherwise, I'm inclined to think your bike is OK.

 

[Bush]

OK doing a little maintenance on the bike I took a look at the carb boots, not a good angle but could see regular hose clamps on them, so they seem to have been replaced somewhere in the past. My question though is what do the OEM boots look like, mine look like a radiator hose that has been cut down.

Now this is looking at what can be seen with only bodywork removed and nothing else.

Hard to believe that someone could have actually made up a boot from a rad hose, as the boots have a specific bend in them in order to line up with the carb bank, but I could see why they might appear that way with the sightline you have.

 

[tmds3]

Ok so getting ready to do some stuff to the bike over the winter and found out that -Yes- someone replaced the carb boots with a cut down radiator hose, so this winter going to do valves check, take carbs off and replace boots,and take them apart and clean them, also replace both valve cover gaskets to fix a small leak and generally clean everything up. Now to start ordering parts.

 

[vinny]

Wow, that's unbelievable.... Guess it shouldn't surprise me, some folks are "resourceful" A little maintenance over the winter won't hurt. Good luck and let us know what you find.

 

[Brant]

You are also going to have to buy the OEM clamps to go on the OEM carb boots. Boots have a side locating hole, clamps have a locating pin to hold clamp stationary while tightening, so EACH carb boot orientation with upper clamp on it IS critical not only for access, but linkage interference.

 

[Jim Van]

Plugs little over 1000 miles ago, fuel filter replaced at same time, hasn't lost power but seems to "lug" a little. Don't know how to explain it any better,at 75 to 80 I feel like I need to downshift to pass instead of just getting on the throttle.
Or is this normal? Only had the bike for a year and love it but seems to be a little down on power.

I had a similar problem & my gas mileage was down, too. Turned out to be a dragging rear brake caused by a sticking caliper piston. Nothing wrong with the piston, it just needed the crud cleaned off of it. I even re-used the seals - they looked good too.

I bought a set of used calipers off Ebay and rebuilt them with new seals. From now on, whenever I replace a tire, I plan on replacing the old caliper with a rebuilt one, and then rebuild the old caliper for the next subsequent tire change.

 

[Grabcon]

Replace the boots. I just bought a set new for $40 shipped. Use factory clamps they have stops on them so they don't spin when loosening and tightening.

Follow the link below for your carb re-build and upgrade. I would recommend the jetting that is mentioned in the article. Just did this to my 2000 and what a difference.

http://www.st-riders.net/index.php?topic=10249.0