Carb-Tank Overhaul

Pumper

Well, the story goes like this... I went to a friends house to work on a bike that was given to him. Seems that the son said his dad thought it was the fuel pump, but then it was never repaired and remained all apart. Come get it said the son. So the tank was out of it already. Last time ridden was 2003, or the tag reads the last year registered. I pulled the pump out and everything was rusty. So he gave to me and now I'm stuck with it.

Getting an OEM shop manual for this in a few days. Bike has 23k on it. Crashed lightly on the guard extenders. Owner bought those new, still in the plastic bags. New AC too still wrapped. Brought it home and threw a few hours at it so far. 4am to 11 and took a lunch break. Posted this up and will go back to it later. Filled the tank up with vinegar, hydrogen peroxide, and tap water for the first go-round. When it evaporates down past the brim, I'll top it off with peroxide. Seems to work for me.

Took the radiator cap off and dry as a bone with white crust packing everything, so a few chemicals will take care of that. The engine seems to move so I did no hear some snap like the water pump housing was causing a lockup that way. Had oil up all 4 plug threads; with #3 oil fouled, the others dry. I have a cheap scope and might take a look for scoring.

Looking at years of sitting, then removing a connector and it hung up some. Again, a few chemicals to dip those connectors into, and back to solid connections with some fresh metal to contact with. I took everything off and washed the dust and dirt off the plastic. I'm temped to power-wash the bike off at this point, but I'll windup cleaning it all off with WD-40. Frame, harnesses, plastic, engine, etc.

When I banged the rear axle to see if it was rusted and it moved, I'm now about to check the front. Whoever worked on the wheel swaps for new tires, needless to say they were over tight for my hex and caliper bolts, service on the road; way too tight. Other than that, the bike is pretty much a virgin with a few valves out of spec but plenty of clearance so I figure no burnt valve if they were never touched.

While it's down, I'll pack the front wheel bearings, line up the axle to the triples so the front axle floats in both forks. Rear end is solid and no chain to line up and lube. So when all is said and cleaned, I'm going to spray the whole bike down with WD and now if this thing sits in a windy ocean spray, I won't see the sea eat the bike up is the test.

Once I finally get the carb bank off, I'll take a leakdown and a compression test. Don't want to spend a dime on the bike till the title is in my name, but I see parts are still available for this. Have a new can of NAPA carb dip I used for one carb so this comes in handy again.

I'd like to thank those who showed me what to look for diaphragm wise, pump wise, what am I missing wise and all that.

Any tricks to getting that carb bank off? I removed the right top engine mount and you could see the top insulator band's screw almost dead on thru the thread hole. Are they kidding me? I'm still chasing the lower band screws so this pops off somehow. Even the throttle bell-crank where the cable ends attach to is gummy to open. I don't know what to find at the bowls but brown molasses. That tank stunk like 30 plus years.


 
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Joined
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soCal
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'97 ST1100
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687
to get the carbs off you remove the gas tank that sits below the seat, and all the surrounding bodywork and air box on top of the carbs. Then the clamp screws should all be accessible. After loosening them pry up on the carbs with something like a broom handle against the frame rail and they will pop out. Make sure you have new carb boots before removing them, the original ones aren't going to be reusable.
 
OP
OP

Pumper

Thanks, dwalby.

I'll call a dealer to make sure they are still available. At this point I'll drop the band as low as I can go and razor in and down as to what I can get at. Don't want to load that assembly and bend/snap/wrinkle/etc. something.
 
Joined
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2021 RE Meteor 350
At this point I'll drop the band as low as I can go and razor in and down as to what I can get at. Don't want to load that assembly and bend/snap/wrinkle/etc. something.
The bands sit in a groove on the carb boots. Lowering them isn't needed, or possible. Just loosen them - IIRC it is only the upper clamps that need loosening - and then, with the broom handle, pry on the carb body - NOT on any linkages though - on both sides if necessary and they will pop right off as a unit.
 
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Pumper

Thanks, Bush... but I wish it was that simple. I've been taking the L end of a scribe, sending WD down as far as leveraging the lip of the boot out and ain't happening. I rather sacrifice the rubber than take a chance on the hard parts.

I'm going after the radiator removal next. Have to send vinegar into that mess and let that setup for a few days. So I'm going to see if I can find the lower bands at the front with the whole front end out of the way too. I thought taking apart the rest of the fairing was going to be a nightmare, but it turned out to be a little easier than I thought.

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOaT95GePWtfUnjnXZNvognkcWo-LJTDIejEmsf
 
Joined
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Fort Worth, Texas
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The boots on mine were rock hard and I couldn't pull the carb assembly loose. I took an 18 inch flat steel pry bar and wrapped the flat end with duct tape so I wouldn't damage anything. Took a bit of work to break the grip. Once they began to move, the unit popped out neatly. Just be careful to not pinch anything electrical or plastic. The old boots didn't look bad at first glance but up close it was obvious all four were rock hard and cracked where the carbs inserted...likely cracked during removal.
 

STRider

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Thanks, Bush... but I wish it was that simple. I've been taking the L end of a scribe, sending WD down as far as leveraging the lip of the boot out and ain't happening. I rather sacrifice the rubber than take a chance on the hard parts.

I'm going after the radiator removal next. Have to send vinegar into that mess and let that setup for a few days. So I'm going to see if I can find the lower bands at the front with the whole front end out of the way too. I thought taking apart the rest of the fairing was going to be a nightmare, but it turned out to be a little easier than I thought.

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOaT95GePWtfUnjnXZNvognkcWo-LJTDIejEmsf
@Pumper the links to your photos are not working for me. Not sure about other members of the site. But I suspect either your permissions aren't set up correctly or you're not copying the link correctly. Then again it could be all me.
 

John OoSTerhuis

Life Is Good!
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1991 SSMST1100
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1058
Pumper’s link requires a Google acct login. If I ever had one I don’t remember. Members can create their own photo albums right here on the site, FWIW
 
OP
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Pumper

Thanks John. Much easier. Thanks too , fixr. Took the filler cap and thermostat off. See if I can salvage these. Don't think the reserve nipple is going to make it but will see. radiator neck.jpgRapid Rider.jpg
 
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Pumper

I'm treating this like a nice sip of 150yr old Reme every so often out of the glass and slowly take my time. So round one was not a bad mix on the experimental level. I had less that half of the larger bottle, topped off with tap water and what bubbles dropped by a little shake, ran the peroxide to the brim. I then went for round 2 with two gallons of vinny, the top off again with peroxide.

Unbelievable it washed right off the pump hose/harness rail call it. As I was spraying, I saw the pump failure with the screen acting like a swinging door, all 3 sides let go, the others were intact. Something to guess about is the why? I have a spray washer that tears your skin off if you use this one spray head. So I'll attempt to get what I can't reach and this guy should blow off what I can't wipe like I see what is left in the tank.

So my deal is to pour and add gas and ATF with the water I couldn't catch on the sponge and mix those three up all up/down/sideways, and dump it in the oil cans I bring to the auto store and they take it. First guy at the corner of the tank is going to be whatever water is tilted on that angle. Once I know all the water is out, more gas and AFT to slosh around and now it sits till parts come tricking in.

I think I found the lower band on the carb bank to be loose. When I gave a push to twist, it moved. Shrunk it's so tight on there. Funny thing is both boots on the right side show a gap off the head, boots on the left side are sitting right where they should be. Doubt if was the jerking on the snorkel box with those dowels being the only movement.

Correct me if I am wrong, but are those rubber mats for heat not to cook the carbs? I'll have fresh carb boot rubbers so being that quick a removal of the carb bank, my R&D will be to eliminate the floor mat and run reflective tape on the carb bowls and fuel rails, if not glue reflective sections onto the top engine case and cool the carb body this way. The rubber is decomposing and I'm trying to address it to the point of putting more money in this bike than it's worth.

ST solution mix.jpgST pump cleaned round one.jpgST Tank clean round one.jpg
 
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Pumper

Bucket of stones and go for it? Hate to sacrifice that pump assembly just for the top cap. Going to buy a bag of stones and wash a couple of pounds. Ah, gorilla tape, more WD while I get stoned.

I wonder if the tank float is salvageable? I forgot trying; working fast before it rusts up. WD a mist going in those 3 holes and now some ATF/gas for more coating the mist didn't. I'm not sure how I'm going to attack this, but that sprayer is not about to spray the roof but the stones can dislodge a lot. A little water/acid for a lube and I'm going to have some muscle after this workout.
 
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OP

Pumper

Daily progress. Here is a two day sitter with a mix of vinegar and peroxide. Scotchbrite the curst off, drill the smaller nipples out. Gas cap came out so clean. I just dinked radiator cap with rubbers in place. I got caught out dipping rubber tipped float needles, and those took a swell, popped offvinny peroxide cleanup.jpgvinny peroxide cleanup.jpg and rendered useless. But seeing the thermostat oring did not move, I'll try the radiator cap with the rubber seals and test.
 
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