Changing the Fuel Joint Hose

[etalors]

After reading some horror stories on this forum about the fuel hose joint leaking, I was thinking of changing mine. The bike is 16 yrs old with 40K on the clock. However, one of the parts, 90661-SL0-A01 Heater hose clip, is not available anywhere and is on back order, with no ETA. I have checked Honda and Acura car parts (since this is used in Honda cars as well). Same response. The part is not available. My questions to the forum are:

1. Can I reuse this part (90661-SL0-A01 Heater hose clip), the one that is already on the bike. It is a constant tension clip. If I reuse it what is the risk of failure. I know the manual says to replace both clips. The other two replacement parts are available and will be replaced.

2. How prevalent is the leaking of this fuel joint. Have a good number of folks experienced this issue.

3. Does anyone have a new one laying around that I can buy.

4. My other option is to delay this replacement to a later date, hopefully this part will become available.

Thanks for your input.

 

[SupraSabre]

These clips can be a little tricky to reuse, but I have reused mine numerous times.

If you are not removing the tank completely...

Drain the upper tank completely, drain the lower tank below the joint hose. (You'll know if you didn't get enough out!
Remove the front saddle mount and remove the lower clamp (I use waterpump pliers)
Remember the hose direction. Remove the upper clamp.
Twist the hose, it should break free.
Fit the upper clamp over the upper hose end ('03-'07 - larger end), far enough to clear putting the hose on.
Remembering the hose direction, replace the joint hose at the upper tank connection
Slide (while using the WP pliers) the upper clamp over the hose and tank.
Fit the lower clamp over the lower hose end (smaller end), far enough to clear putting the hose on.
Tip the back of the tank up and slip the hose to the connector of the lower tank.
Slide (while using the WP pliers) the lower clamp over the hose and tank. (Not as easy as it sounds, but can be done.)

The reason the Shops like new clamps, is that they are opened until you pull off the tab, that lets them close.

 

[Catmandu2]

I just changed mine,,, on my '04, although I have no way of knowing if it had ever been changed in the past by a PO. I made the following observations. It was easy to do. The old hose was in good shape. The old hoses rubber was harder and less supple than the new one. The old clamps were easy to remove. The new clamps were easy to install and adjust, using battery pliers. Instead of tipping the tank up,,, I chose to simply remove it. It came off easily by removing the rear seat bracket,,, and that gave me clear access to everything underneath. I would not buy new clamps again. I would likely use a common hose clamp on the lower joint,,, as it is accessible to snug up occasionally. I left a couple of photo's on a thread called "gas smell",,, as I recall. Cheeers,,, CAt'

 

[sky.high]

I also just replaced mine on my 05 as a precaution, I reused the original clamps without issue. I used a small trigger clamp to spread the hose clamps and it worked surprising well!

 

[CYYJ]

Can I reuse this part (90661-SL0-A01 Heater hose clip), the one that is already on the bike. It is a constant tension clip. If I reuse it what is the risk of failure. I know the manual says to replace both clips.

I am surprised that the manual recommends replacing the constant tension clamps that hold the fuel tank interconnect hose in place. They are not a wear part, and if the correct tool (see this post) is used to remove and replace them, there is no risk of damaging the clamps.

I re-used both clamps when I replaced the hose on my ST 1300, and I have no concerns at all about the integrity of the clamps or their performance holding the hose securely in place.

Michael

 

[Gus1300]

I've had mine off about three times as well, reused both tube and clamps so far. I have a new tube on the shelf, but after checking the old one, elected not to replace it at last removal. Just be sure to use a tool wide enough to grab the two outside tabs simultaneously so you don't bend the clamp unnecessarily by only being able to reach one and you'll be fine.

 

[dduelin]

When I replaced this hose I replaced the upper clamp, the one you referred to, with a solid band worm gear hose clamp and reused the lower OEM Honda one. After that I removed the tank a few times and it was easy to compress and remove the lower clamp with a pair of straight jaw pliers. The upper one never has to be touched after replacement of the hose unless the hose is damaged or you own the bike long enough to consider a second replacement.

 

[Catmandu2]

I think the whole process of changing out the fuel hose gets a bit over-hyped. This must be because the consequences of cracking a hose are very serious. And setting the oem spring clamps is a bit dramatic. But it is not a difficult process. Because I have gen 3 heli-bar risers,,, my bars are back so far now,,, that I can not tip and prop the tank for service work (not without removing a handlebar anyway). It is far easier to just remove the tank. Then all the service work is much easier,,, and the fuel hose never gets bent. If you can work it this way,, and do regular inspections at each air filter change,,, you may rarely need to change the fuel hose. To each his own though,,, cheers,, CAt'

 

[dduelin]

I think the whole process of changing out the fuel hose gets a bit over-hyped. This must be because the consequences of cracking a hose are very serious. And setting the oem spring clamps is a bit dramatic. But it is not a difficult process. Because I have gen 3 heli-bar risers,,, my bars are back so far now,,, that I can not tip and prop the tank for service work (not without removing a handlebar anyway). It is far easier to just remove the tank. Then all the service work is much easier,,, and the fuel hose never gets bent. If you can work it this way,, and do regular inspections at each air filter change,,, you may rarely need to change the fuel hose. To each his own though,,, cheers,, CAt'

Well put. After installing risers I came to the same conclusion.

 

[Igofar]

With the correct tools (see Michael's link) most any job is easy to do, problem is, a lot of folks don't have the correct tool, nor wish to purchase one, and try and make do with what they have.
This often results in chewing up, bending, or damaging stuff.
With the correct tool, you can use the factory clamps over and over again.
I would strongly recommend that worm driven hose clamps NOT be used due to the risk of damaging the hose.
I'm sure Honda chose to use a constant tension clamp...on a fuel line...over a hot engine....for a reason
Is it easier to purchase new clamps and use them, sure it is, simply slide them in place, and pull the retainer off, do you have too? No.

 

[dduelin]

Larry, I appreciate your concern for the safety of others but solid band worm drive hose clamps are designed that way so as to not damage the hose. They are safely used in a variety of applications including rubber hose to metal tubing fuel lines in enclosed compartments per ABYC certification and USCG safety codes. When you are offshore a fuel leak in an enclosed engine compartment is a magnitude greater than one on a vehicle with engine spaces open to the atmosphere on a roadway with shoulders to pull over on to a few feet away. Solid band clamps are also mandated for below the waterline thru-hull fittings where rubber hose is clamped to metal fittings. A failure of the clamping device could allow thousands of gallons of water per minute to enter and sink the boat in a few minutes so they are designed to not damage the hose. In your diving trips you have been on many boats safely using solid band worm drive clamps and I sailed my sailboats for many thousands of miles likewise.

Honda choose constant tension spring clamps for more than one reason with two of them probably ease of assembly in the manufacturing process and initial cost.

Ham fisted people have been beating on machinery a long time and it is few mechanics that own every special tool for every application. Part of the art and science of fixing things is knowing what you can do with the certain tools you have.

 

[Bmacleod]

I'm sure Honda chose to use a constant tension clamp...on a fuel line...over a hot engine....for a reason

I'm absolutely sure there is a reason... Likely cost and/or ease of installation at the factory. I'm also pretty sure that a properly installed and torqued worm-drive clamp isn't going to cause issues

 

[BakerBoy]

There's no technical reason to not reuse the spring clamps on the fuel joint hose. I've re-used them many times. They don't age or degrade. The only thing about those spring clamps is that used ones aren't quite as 'easy' because new ones are held open by a clip, whereas a used one has to be held open with a tool. But that simply is of no significance. The nice thing about spring clamps is that they're constant tension and simple, Many of them are wide also, good for the rubber longevity and keeping a seal over the long term.

The risk with worm drive clamps is that the installer may not know when to quit tightening, and the bands tend to be narrower (some, not all), and a person can overtighten them, leading to less reliable connection once the rubber forms to the new shape if over tightened.

 

[fnmag]

I've reused the Honda clamps at least three times.

 

[Igofar]

Larry, I appreciate your concern for the safety of others but solid band worm drive hose clamps are designed that way so as to not damage the hose. They are safely used in a variety of applications including rubber hose to metal tubing fuel lines in enclosed compartments per ABYC certification and USCG safety codes. When you are offshore a fuel leak in an enclosed engine compartment is a magnitude greater than one on a vehicle with engine spaces open to the atmosphere on a roadway with shoulders to pull over on to a few feet away. Solid band clamps are also mandated for below the waterline thru-hull fittings where rubber hose is clamped to metal fittings. A failure of the clamping device could allow thousands of gallons of water per minute to enter and sink the boat in a few minutes so they are designed to not damage the hose. In your diving trips you have been on many boats safely using solid band worm drive clamps and I sailed my sailboats for many thousands of miles likewise.

Honda choose constant tension spring clamps for more than one reason with two of them probably ease of assembly in the manufacturing process and initial cost.

Ham fisted people have been beating on machinery a long time and it is few mechanics that own every special tool for every application. Part of the art and science of fixing things is knowing what you can do with the certain tools you have.

While you may be smarter than the average bear, the average person goes down to the hardware store and just buys cheap hose clamps that cut through and damage the hoses.
I have several bins full of German made, stainless steel, solid band clamps, and use them on many different applications, and agree with you 100 percent that when used correctly, they are safe.
While most companies due choose things to cut corners and save cost, I still have to think that on a fuel tank, directly over a hot engine, they were probably concerned with leakage due to heat cycles, and wanted a spring clamp to remain tight at all times.

 

[etalors]

Thanks All for your input and suggestions. Much appreciated as always. I will reuse that one clip. It will save me some $$ ($15). Now I just need the right tool to keep it open.