I have a 2002 ST1100 and its leaking. Should I buy the kit to rebuild, buy a used Master Cylinder (forget buying new OEM replacement, too expensive) or buy the Chinese after market on eBay.
Clutch Master Cylinder Leaking
- Thread starter Winfried
- Start date
+1 Heathy, Where's it leaking from? I presume that it's out of the pushrod end, if so go with a rebuild kit as long as the bore looks OK.
If the bore is bad, then like you say second hand is the way forward, at least there's plenty of cheap ones for sale.
I'd go for a genuine kit if you can find one but if not whatever is recommended by others in the States.
If you're ordering bits make sure you check the brass bushing in the pushrod socket beforehand.
Upt'North.
OP
OP
It is leaking from the pushrod end. So the rebuild is the way then. What are the instructions for rebuilding?
+1 ABSU. The piston will be retained by a circlip. So remove your lever first, there's a locknut underneath, note where the pushrod nestles in on the lever, this is the bushing you will need to ckeck. They can and do wear out.
The circlip shouldn't be too bad if it's had fluid around it, they can be a bugger to tease out when corroded. Then the piston should pull out. Your mobile will be your best friend, pictures, pictures, pictures. Much easier than wondering where that bit goes later. Also full bleed will be required after but the slave is at the front on 11's.
If you can find the manual to download it would be good.
Hope it helps. P. S. All above is from memory only.
Upt'North.
The circlip shouldn't be too bad if it's had fluid around it, they can be a bugger to tease out when corroded. Then the piston should pull out. Your mobile will be your best friend, pictures, pictures, pictures. Much easier than wondering where that bit goes later. Also full bleed will be required after but the slave is at the front on 11's.
If you can find the manual to download it would be good.
Hope it helps. P. S. All above is from memory only.
Upt'North.
You'll find a link on the Australian Pan Site to download a free PDF manual. I think it's the bottom post that works.
Upt'North.
http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=433.0
Upt'North.
http://ozstoc.com/index.php?topic=433.0
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
+3 on Honda rebuild kit.
+2 note about the circlip pliers. It takes one with long ‘arms’ to get it out.
BTDT
John
+2 note about the circlip pliers. It takes one with long ‘arms’ to get it out.
BTDT
John
If you have a non-ABS model, consider buying a new Brembo 12mm master cylinder. I installed one on my non-ABS model and the "brake feel" is much improved - a lot less "wooden".
- Joined
- May 28, 2015
- Messages
- 328
- Location
- Bothell, WA and Surprise, AZ
- Bike
- 2012 ST1300P ABS
- STOC #
- 8912
The 98 - 01 VFR front brake master cylinder also is 12mm and will bolt directly on to the ST1100. I installed a VFR unit about a year ago and I agree with Jim that the "brake feel" is very much improved over the 14mm stock unit.
The only caveat with the VFR master cylinder is that the brake levers are different however many e-bay sellers include the brake lever.
One example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-HONDA-INTERCEPTOR-VFR-800-FRONT-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER-W-LEVER/152839583375?epid=1611837467&hash=item2395f2f68f:g:lzUAAOSwh1haPsNR:rk:8:pf:0
The only caveat with the VFR master cylinder is that the brake levers are different however many e-bay sellers include the brake lever.
One example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-HONDA-INTERCEPTOR-VFR-800-FRONT-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER-W-LEVER/152839583375?epid=1611837467&hash=item2395f2f68f:g:lzUAAOSwh1haPsNR:rk:8:pf:0
OP
OP
Yeah, it takes 15 minutes to get to Fillmore. Take 23 right to it. I take the side route off 23 to go to Santa Paula, and through there to get to Ojai. Went riding to see much damage the fires did here. Found that the restaurant I stop at on Kanan was burnt to the ground, not far from the Rock Store.
OP
OP
I have flushed the clutch master cyclinder through the slave cylinder on the front, as the fluid was pretty dirty when I purchased the bike on 12/31/2015, so I know what you're talking about. I have rebuilt a master cylinder on a car before, but that was some time back. Anyway, I figure to get as much info as possible before I start on it.+1 ABSU. The piston will be retained by a circlip. So remove your lever first, there's a locknut underneath, note where the pushrod nestles in on the lever, this is the bushing you will need to ckeck. They can and do wear out.
The circlip shouldn't be too bad if it's had fluid around it, they can be a bugger to tease out when corroded. Then the piston should pull out. Your mobile will be your best friend, pictures, pictures, pictures. Much easier than wondering where that bit goes later. Also full bleed will be required after but the slave is at the front on 11's.
If you can find the manual to download it would be good.
Hope it helps. P. S. All above is from memory only.
Upt'North.
OP
OP
I have a non-ABS, but there isn't any issues with the brakes, just need to fix the clutch side as the fluid is leaking onto the bike. I have ordered the kit and it is due this Thursday, 12/13/2018.
OP
OP
When I purchased my ST, I had a broken left arm from crashing, shattered my wrist. Crashed 11/19/2105, found the ST online in December, picked it up and trailered it on 12/31/2015 along with my brother who test drove it for me. Then since I couldn't ride un February of 2016, I spent my time online, to which I did download the PDF manual, along with the actual manual the seller gave me. What else could I do waiting for my arm to heal so I could finally ride. Best thing that ever happened to me was getting my arm broken in that accident. Person who caused me to crash had a one million dollar umbrella policy to which my settlement check will arrive next month. Now looking for a 2nd bike, V-Twin, as even though the ST is great, it is the same ride every time, and I need a change of pace. You know, ride one, one day, and then the other the next.
OP
OP
that's crashed 11/19/2015.
OP
OP
I spent yesterday afternoon doing the rebuild on Clutch Master Cylinder and was successful. Had a problem going out and getting a snap-ring tool that worked. Bought a $5.00 one from Harbor Freight it moved around too much trying get into the holes in the snap-ring. Went and bought another for $7.50 from Napa, not much better, but it didn't move around and I was able to remove the snap-ring. Other problem is I put the Push Rod in backwards, but finally got it right. One end is too big to go into the bush. Then getting to the slave cylinder to bleed means removing the lowers, and that is always a hassle.