I am a member of the Foro Pan European (Spanish)
A member recently posted a write up on a 'fix' for Code 26. I reproduce it below translated from Spanish to English. It may be of interest and assistance to some:
"Hello everyone
I recently had a failure on my PAN ST1300, (F1 FAIL) when reaching 4000rpm, which by identifying the flashes of the F! light, I was able to identify the failure transmitted by the control unit... (2 long pulses and 6 short pulses ), that is, if each long pulse counts as 10 and each short pulse counts as 1,,, "THE CODE IN THIS CASE WOULD BE: 10+10+1+1+1+1+1+1= 26.
According to the fault identification manual, this code leads us to think that we have a bad wiring that goes to the KNOCK SENSOR on the Left side, or the SENSOR itself.
To get to this SENSOR, you will have to remove the bumper, left fairing, lower apron and left fork cover...
Once all that has been dismantled, you will also have to dismantle the exhaust manifolds and the protection bars, since otherwise it is almost impossible to get a long 24mm pipe wrench in, which is necessary to remove the SENSOR.
You can find this SENSOR at HONDA at the modest price of €178.54 + €37.49 VAT.. = €216.03 - I'll give you the HONDA purchase code: 30530-MCS-004
After searching a lot for scrapyards, websites, etc... I have not had any luck finding it... and looking on AMAZON, I found a similar one from HONDA ACCORD CR-V CIVIC, for which I risked buying for the price of €19.03... total, then it can be returned if it is not worth it.
I installed this new sensor, but its connection does not work for our cable, so I had to make an extension from the one on the motorcycle to the new connector. To make sure it didn't come off due to vibrations, I taped it tightly to the sensor itself.
Having said all this, although it may be a lot of trouble for you, I only want to make it easy for you to understand what I have done and give you the solution to this possible problem.
It is assumed that once you have an electronic fault, the control unit registers it and may continue to show it to you even if it is already solved... so I made a sequence that I found in one of the multiplex forums that I saw, to reset it ...and it is the following:
The first thing you have to do is make a bridge with a piece of cable or if you have a button it is more comfortable..., because with that cable you are going to have to bridge the F1 connector; That connector is under the passenger seat on the right, you will see it without a problem... it is dark maroon and has 4 cables.
In the connector, where you have to put the jumper are the green/pink and brown cables.
The sequence is as follows:
1. You put the bridge between the two indicated cables.
2. you put the contact
3. you remove the jumper and the F1 light remains fixed for 5 seconds
4. You put the jumper back on and the F1 flashes (it stayed fixed for me)
5. you remove the bridge
6. you remove the contact
The switchboard is now reset.
I reassembled everything, well, just the exhausts, to test and started the bike perfectly... I waited for it to warm up a little and then I put it at 4000rpm... and more... without any failure.
Seeing the result, I proceeded to put everything back together and went out to test it, without any problems.
I hope you will never need all this, but since you never know, it is better to leave it recorded here, so that it may serve as guidance and help to others."
A member recently posted a write up on a 'fix' for Code 26. I reproduce it below translated from Spanish to English. It may be of interest and assistance to some:
"Hello everyone
I recently had a failure on my PAN ST1300, (F1 FAIL) when reaching 4000rpm, which by identifying the flashes of the F! light, I was able to identify the failure transmitted by the control unit... (2 long pulses and 6 short pulses ), that is, if each long pulse counts as 10 and each short pulse counts as 1,,, "THE CODE IN THIS CASE WOULD BE: 10+10+1+1+1+1+1+1= 26.
According to the fault identification manual, this code leads us to think that we have a bad wiring that goes to the KNOCK SENSOR on the Left side, or the SENSOR itself.
To get to this SENSOR, you will have to remove the bumper, left fairing, lower apron and left fork cover...
Once all that has been dismantled, you will also have to dismantle the exhaust manifolds and the protection bars, since otherwise it is almost impossible to get a long 24mm pipe wrench in, which is necessary to remove the SENSOR.
You can find this SENSOR at HONDA at the modest price of €178.54 + €37.49 VAT.. = €216.03 - I'll give you the HONDA purchase code: 30530-MCS-004
After searching a lot for scrapyards, websites, etc... I have not had any luck finding it... and looking on AMAZON, I found a similar one from HONDA ACCORD CR-V CIVIC, for which I risked buying for the price of €19.03... total, then it can be returned if it is not worth it.
I installed this new sensor, but its connection does not work for our cable, so I had to make an extension from the one on the motorcycle to the new connector. To make sure it didn't come off due to vibrations, I taped it tightly to the sensor itself.
Having said all this, although it may be a lot of trouble for you, I only want to make it easy for you to understand what I have done and give you the solution to this possible problem.
It is assumed that once you have an electronic fault, the control unit registers it and may continue to show it to you even if it is already solved... so I made a sequence that I found in one of the multiplex forums that I saw, to reset it ...and it is the following:
The first thing you have to do is make a bridge with a piece of cable or if you have a button it is more comfortable..., because with that cable you are going to have to bridge the F1 connector; That connector is under the passenger seat on the right, you will see it without a problem... it is dark maroon and has 4 cables.
In the connector, where you have to put the jumper are the green/pink and brown cables.
The sequence is as follows:
1. You put the bridge between the two indicated cables.
2. you put the contact
3. you remove the jumper and the F1 light remains fixed for 5 seconds
4. You put the jumper back on and the F1 flashes (it stayed fixed for me)
5. you remove the bridge
6. you remove the contact
The switchboard is now reset.
I reassembled everything, well, just the exhausts, to test and started the bike perfectly... I waited for it to warm up a little and then I put it at 4000rpm... and more... without any failure.
Seeing the result, I proceeded to put everything back together and went out to test it, without any problems.
I hope you will never need all this, but since you never know, it is better to leave it recorded here, so that it may serve as guidance and help to others."
