"Crooked" Rear Brake Pad?!

[playfair]

I really hate for my 6th post to be asking for help, and all we need on here is another rear brake thread, but I'm feeling sick to my stomach

Picked my 07 (bought in 09) last week from a dealer, sort of a "drive and ride" thing. Has 2200 miles including the long trip back. I checked it over pretty well before I left, but apparently not good enough, unless it happened on the way home...

The inside rear brake pad is skewed, and has worn that way (pic below)

Yes, it seriously drags on the rear wheel, but a manual check of the secondary master cylinder (by manually pivoting the front left caliper) proves OK as the piston depresses and releases.

I've been reading so much on here lately that it's a big blur, but I know that in one of the SMC threads some one had a similar problem, but of course I can't find it now.

I can manually back the pads off so the wheel is free, but activating either brake system brings it right back. TIA for any advice as to what caused it (and how to fix!)

 

[roginoz]

Is the pad properly hooked into the slot at the front of the caliper? It might be worth removing and reinstalling the pad to see. I'd be sure to clean the caliper pin before reinstalling it, too. You'll need a new pad, regardless, but at least you'll know everything else is OK.

 

[dmulk]

Whoever removed the wheel prior to you purchasing it failed to reinstall it correctly. There is a small shelf that the front of the pads sit in. If one is not careful when reinstalling the wheel, this is exactly what happens. Remove the wheel and replace the pads immediately. It also looks like the pad got hot and separated from it's seat....hopefully the rotor isn't warped....

 

[playfair]

Come to think of it, the dealer said the wheel was removed 1000 mi ago and the tire replaced for a nail!
If it's a reassembly issue, it must have happened then.
I've read about the pad seating properly, but can't see how that will work until I pull it I suppose. Does the wheel have to come off, or can I just follow the pad removal procedure? Will check rotor run out as well.

 

[Fortunet 1]

Is the pad properly hooked into the slot at the front of the caliper? It might be worth removing and reinstalling the pad to see. I'd be sure to clean the caliper pin before reinstalling it, too. You'll need a new pad, regardless, but at least you'll know everything else is OK.

I would agree with this. When I see a caliper pin getting the way it appears in the photo, I remove it...carefully mount it in my battery drill, and give it a spin..holding
600 grit sandpaper to the shaft. Just a quick clean off and slightly grease the shaft.

You should be able to remove the caliper assembly without taking the wheel off.
You will have to loosen the right exhaust clamp, and remove the two bolts holding it,
to remove the swing arm caliper pin.

 

[Blrfl]

If you're going to grease the pin, use silicone grease. Anything else will destroy the little O-ring at the end.

--Mark

 

[Tankereng]

The pads can be changed without removing the wheel....however, I'd remove it anyway and give the caliper a good look over...

 

[Firstpeke]

Yup, a classic case of the slider pin not having been cleaned and lubed, thus causing the pad to hang up... may not have been totally seated in the retainer clip either.

I would remove the pads, un-ship and clean the caliper, and renew the pads... I use Honda Moly60 on the pins and clean everything using brake cleaner, after cleaning I lightly coat everything in ACF50, not the pads of course, I still apply a thin film of copper anti seize grease to the back of the pads, even though they have the anti squeal shim affair fitted....
I also clean the guide pins which slide in and out of the rubber boots. I use a very thin film of LM grease on these and have never had a problem... other greases are available!!!

I have no problem thereafter removing any fasteners or the pins or retaining plugs.

Hope you get this sorted out okay, shouldn't cause too much problem.

 

[st1300r]

If you're going to grease the pin, use silicone grease. Anything else will destroy the little O-ring at the end.
--Mark

Dumb question what's that little O-ring sealing anyway?

 

[Blrfl]

There's nothing in that hole to seal. If I had to guess, they probably put it there to align the end of the pin during assembly or soak up any flex that might happen if the pin gets stressed, avoiding metal-to-metal contact with the caliper.

--Mark

 

[playfair]

Thanks for the help, guys.
Pulled the pads this morning, pic of the inside one is attached.
Definitely looks like it wasn't installed correctly, as I couldn't find anything "wrong" with the caliper. The pin is not damaged, but will clean and lube.

A local place has EBC in stock for less than I can get OEM via mail order, so I'm going to try those. We've had a week of really wet weather, but it's supposed to clear soon. I've only riden 30 miles in dry conditions so far, should be heaven!
Hope the rotor is ok, but should notice if it vibes from being warped. Will purge the rear lines as well.